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•
a.
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V
i
i
.*
i
T R A V E L S
TV rough the
INTERIOR PARTS
OF
AM E R I C A,
I N A
SERIES OF LETTERS.
BY AN OFFICER.
X <AM*»f
*T* 8V, OLV Tlf SlTTQlf TX\jT& XtyZiq H[MV vvv %
DEMOSTH. OirMTR,
VOL. I.
L O N D O N:
Printed for WILLIAM LANE, Leadenhall^Strecu
M SCC LXXXlt.
jZtrs. &• ^
TO THE RIGHT HONORABLE TH£
EARL OF HARRINGTON,
VISCOUNT PETERSHAM,
AND
COLONEL OF THE TWENTY-NINTH-
REGlMENT OF FOOT.
H
MY LORD, -V;"
AVING had the honor to
ferve under your Lordfhip,
it was my fortune, in common
with all who were in the fame
fitua-
(
}
Jituation, to become
to your Lordfhip by
obligations; fcnd it is
attached
perfonal
a' confe-
be
quence ; which. I hope will
thought equally \natural, that I
fhould take this . occafion to ..„ ac-
*»*.-.-.
•*»
' -w *
In laying before the Public un-
{ common fcenes of difficulty, dan-
ger and diftrefs, I might be further
tempted, had I talents for the
undertaking, to particularize the
unremitting fortitude, which, in
feveral of the moft trying in-
ftaiices, diftinguifhed your Lord-
ihip's conduct : but examples of
bravery, though none can be more
confpicuous than thofe your Lord-
fhip fhewed, abound in every clafs
of ^ Britifh army : more rare
though
, i
t Si )
though not lefs worthy of isijta-
tion, is the fort <bf . attachment
your Lprdihip . has always, fhewn
to your corps.
* *
*
It has been your praife, my Lord,,
when out of the field, to forego
the pleasures which high rank,
fortune, youth, and accomplifh-
ments opened to your view, and.
to -brave ttfie feverity of climate,
through tedious winters, in mere
military fellowship.
In retired quarters, you found
the care of your men to be at
once the true .preparation for your
country's fejrviee, ,gnd > moft
gratifying enjoyment; to your own
benevolendfe : while on their parts,
: i* they
I
they confidered their leade? as their
beft friend and benefactor. Dif-
cipline was thus placed upon a bails
that mechanical valor can never
eftablifli, upon a principle worthy
of troops who can thinlc and feel,
confidence, and gratitude*
Duly impreffed with thefe and
many other of your virtues-r-many
more than you would permit me
to enumerate; I have the honor
to be
My Lord,
Your Lordfhip's moft obedient,
And moft devoted
Humble. Servant
THOMAS ANBUREY.
r '
'♦ f
^
. I-
* *J
P ft, E ,F A :■•■■€■ Et
* t '
I •
i t ,
«*1
' ♦
.&*«
iHE/ following letters were written to
^gratify privafe.fri$id&ip, and would
never have: been intruded upon theEufelkv
but from the entreaties of , fome of '*hc
xnoft refpfeftable Sufcft*ih«s to;the Work,
tvho* flattered the. Aftthpi?, t^^w'-tbey
cbntair\4d 'much authentic infom>atio»,
relative to America* little known on 'this
fide of the Adahtici thc^ could awatfaJJ of
being interefting to the Public.
Their
t vi J ■
Their ftyle and manner will clearly
evince them to be the aftual jrefolt of a
familiar correfpondence, and by no means
void of thofe inaccuracies neceffarily arif-
Ing from the rapid efFufions of a confes-
sedly inexperienced Writer, wwch will
Scarcely be wondered at, by thofe who
confider how widely different are the qua-
lifications neceflary to -form the Soldier
and the Author.
Every thing the Reader may meet with
*
will not appear ftriStty nettvelley bpt this
is a circiimftance unavoidably attending
the writer of a tour through a country,
which has been already the fubjeft -of fi>
much difcuffionj but there are certainly
many new circumftances related, which
will ferve to point out the true chara&er
and manners of the Americans.
The
[ vu ]
The fa£ts came within his own know-
ledge, or are fuppdrted by feme honour-
able authority} and his motto has ever
been,
r t ii
■Nothing extenuate,
Nor fct down ailght in Malice.
They will ftrike every man with the
greater forte, after the evident partiality
of a late Authbf , who" }ias been led to
* ■ •
"tegrefent the Fav6rers of Independence
as poffeffed of every amiable qualification,
* • -
and thofe who efpoufed the rights of the
Mbther Country, as deftitiite of common
feelings, and humanity itfelf.
V
** > . ■
. . < - .-
J
The Author, fenlible liow iiiuch thofe
Subfcribers, whofe generofity has exceeded
the limits of the fubfcription, ' would be
hurt by a particular diftinftion, co-
jointly renders them thofe thanks,
€S Which the tried heart that feels alone can give."
j
r
*e*
•v *
Pl4t,£CTA0N5 FOR PLACING THE PLAT£3#
f 4 VOL si,
Ma p f of America, .opfpfite the Tide Pag* Eacing Page
VicVofSt. JoM*, u£bn thVRfrer S6rf*li - > 156
TheSe&ibn'and Slaa of a.'&lepUiAufe • •.-.'- Ij8»
Indian Warrior - • ^ «, • 1iqi
•View of ttit^BlocUtoiuV 2nd &to Mffli * »• . . 1 . i '550
View of the Encampment at Still Water . jj • -\ J '433
American Continental Lollars * - » ' • 400 .
View of the Encampment of the Convention Army, at 7
Gturlojtefville - • t 9 * i
443
f .
TRAVELS
THROUGH THE
INTERIOR PARTS
OF
AMERICA,
LETTER L ■
Cork, Auguft %th 9 1776*
MY DEAR FRIEND,
I RECEIVED your letter, dated thcf 2d
inftant, and furely nothing can be
more flattering than the warm teftimony
of regard and friendfhip every line of it
ipeaks. — It was with great relu&ance you
confented to my going into the army, but
a dull inactive life neither fuited my cir-
cumftances nor my inclination* and an early
Vol. L B love
2 INTERIOR TRAVELS
love of a military one, fpon determined
my choice. My time and poor abilities
cannot be fo well employed, as in the fer-
vice of my King and country.
1 I have no regrets at quitting England,
but the lofs I muft fuftain in your pleafant
and improving converfation > and am per-
fuaded you will alleviate as many of thofe
painful reflexions as poflible, by taking
every opportunity of writing to me.—
None fhall be omitted, on my part, of
alluring you how often I think of you,
and the implicit attention I fhall ever pay
to your commands, in giving you a de-
fcription of perfons, places, and various
occurrences— and fhould I fometimes be
too particular on trivial fubje&s, you muft
excufe it, and remember the two prevailing
motives you afligned for this kind of cor-
refpondence — the pleafure you was fo ob-
liging to fay it would afford you, an4 the
utility you thought it would be of to me,
by
THROUGH- AMERICA* 3
by calling my attention to whatever be-
came in the lead worthy of obfervation.
This is the laft you muft expeft from
me on this fide the Atlantic, as in a few
days we fail, with the care of fome recruits
for the 47th regiment.
I once more entreat you, my dear friend,
to take every opportunity of writing to
me, and believe that time and diftance can
never abate the refpeft and friendfhip with
which I am,
Yours, &c,
Bz LET-
INTERIOR TRAVELS
L E T T E R * II,
, 6* hard the time, on the i Scpt f ^
t Banks of Newfoundland* J 1 776.
MY DEAR FRIEND,
T T would be very ungrateful indeed not
*■* to embrace the opportunity, by a fhip
that is bound for England, now lying too
for letters, to fend you a hafty account of
the events that have happened fmce my
departure from Ireland.
You know I had the care of fome re-
cruits for the 47th regiment $ and as they
were compofed of that nation, no lefs
famous for their chara&eriftic errors, than
their fpirit and unbounded hofpitality, let
me relate a cafual occurrence or two, in
place of novelty, which cannot be ex-
pedted,
THROUGH AMERICA. g
ed, fituated as I am, between Iky and
water.
There were continually fome little jdifr
putes among thefe Hibernians. One day,
on hearing a more than ufual noife upon
deck, I went up to enquire the occafion of
it, and learnt it was a quarrel between
two of them. Upon afking the caufe of
him who appeared the tranfgreffor, he ex-
claimed, " Oh ! and plaife your Hqnor, I
Cf did nothing to him at all, at all" — when
the other haftily replied, c « Oh yes, and
<c plaife yoiur Honor, he faid as how he
cc would take up a ftick and blow my
cc brains out." The peculiar manner in
which it was vociferated, was fo truly
comic, that I could not refrain from
laughter, and pierely reprimanding them,
overlooked the offence.
The weather has been very pleafant, 'till
a few days previous to our coining on
B 3 thefe
# INTERIOR TRAVELS
tfrefe Banks, when there enflied a moft
dreadful ftorm. The (hip was unable to
carry the leaft fail, being left to the fury
of the driving tempeft, it was impoflible
for any one to keep the deck, and the helm
was.lafhed hard of weather.
About the third day the ftorm began to
abate, and the evening became almoft
calm. But there was fuch a prodigious
fwell of the fea, that the fhip was expect-
ed every moment to roll her mafts over-
board : fhe had driven fo much to the lee-
ward, that although we could not difcern
land, the yards and rigging were covered
with birds, that were blown from it by the
ftorm. "
At this time, one of my recruits com-
ing upon deck, not obferving any one
there, and the fea fo tremendous, imme-
diately went below, and cried out to his
companions, " Oh ! by my foul, honeys, the
"fea
THROUGH AMERICA* ^
€€ fea is very dreadful, and we are all fure
* c to be drowned, for the fhip's a linking,
"'Howeyer, I have this confolation, that
"if (he goes to the bottqm, the Captain
€C muft be accountable for us when we get
€C to Quebec," And his fears operated fo
powerfully, that he gave a groan, and
fainted away,
A few days after this the fea, which
before had been fo tremendous, and to ufe
the technical phrafe, run mountains high,
was now become as calm as a mill-pond.
It is cuftomary, on fuch weather, in a
fleet, for one (hip to invite the Captains
and paffengers of others to dinner. The
mode of invitation on thefe occafions, is
by hoifting a table-cloth to the enfign?
■ftaff. '
We hung out this fignal, and the Cap-
tain of the neareft fhip, with an officer,
came on board. After dinner, fo fudden
B4 and
3 INTERIOR TRAVELS
i
and ftrong a breeze fprung up, as to ren-
der their return very unfafe, and it was
two days before they could venture, when
even then they accomplifhed it with im-
minent danger.
This is a little anecdote I cannot help
wifhing to be much noticed, as it might be
a caution to young officers and captains of
{hips, how they make nautical vifits, or
upon any oceafion quit their veffels.
Thefe Banks may be ranked amongft the
many furprifing and wonderful works of
nature, being a mountain formed under
water, by the flime tihat is continually
wafhing away from the Continent, Its
extent has never yet been afcertained, but
is generally reckoned to be about 160
leagues long, and 90 broad. About the
middle of it is a kind of bay, called the
Pitch. The depth of water varies confi-
derably,
THROUGH AMERICA. 9
derably, being in fome places only five,
and in others fixty fathom. The fun is
fcarcely ever to be difcerned, a cold thick
fog generally covering the whole atmof-
phere, which renders it extremely dan-
gerous to a fleet ; for it is at times a ftate
of total darknefs, where a continual firing
of guns, or inceffant noife of the drum,
can alone prevent the fhips running foul
of each other.
The winds around thefe Banks are ge-
nerally very impetuous ; the cohftant agi-
tation of the waves, I am informed, is occa-
fioned from the fea being driven by irre-
gular currents, that beat fometimes on
one fide and fometimes on the other, ftrik-
ing with great force againft the borders of
thefe Banks, which are every where almoft
perpendicular, and repel them with equal
violence : and yet, on the Banks themfelves,
a little from the coaft, it is as quiet as in a
bay,
IO INTERIOR TRAVEL^
bay* except there happens to be a ftrong and
forced wind coming from a great diftance.
When we found we were upon thefe
Banks* which is perceptible without found-
ing, as the water changes from an azure
blue to a white fandy color, we laid too
in order to fifh for cod, the procefs of
which is, no lefs entertaining than furpriz-*
ingto Europeans.
After baiting the hooks with the en-r
trails of a fowl, in a feyv minutes we
caught a fifh, when the failors made ufe
of fome part of the entrails, as being at
better bait, and then drew up the cod as
faft as you can poffibly imagine ; for
though we remained there only half an
hour, we caught as many as would ferve
the fhip's crew the reft of the voyage.
You may wonder by what means they
are certain of having caught a fifh, with
fo
THROUGH AMERICA. II
fo many fathom of line* out- When it has
been a little while in the water, they
" * gently pull it with the finger and thumb,
and if there is a fifh, the ftruggling of it
occalions a vibration of the line, which is
very perceptible, though fo many fathoms
deep. They then haul it in, and as foon
as the fifh comes in view, the water mag-
nifies it to fuch a fize, that it appears
jdmoft impoflible to get it on board ; and
indeed it requires fome dexterity, for on
hauling them out of the water they ftruggle
with fuch violence, as frequently to work
themfelves off the hooks, by entangling
the line in the rigging, before they can be
got up the fhip's fide.
But thofe vefTels which particularly follow
this bufinefs, avoid the inconvenience by
erefting galleries on the outfide, from the
main-maft to the ftei^n, and fometimes the
whole length of the fhip, in which are
placed barrels with the tops ftruck out,
and
12 INTERIOR TRAVEL?
m
and the fifhermen get into thefe to fheltpr
themfelves from the weather. Thejr flay,
I imagine, cannot be long, as the method
of curing is equally as expeditious as the
catching them; for as foon as the cod is
caught, they cut out its tongue, and give
it to one who immediately ftrikes off its
head, plucks out its liv?r and entrails, and
giving it to another, the bone is drawn out
as far as the navel $ it is then thrown into
the hold of the fhip, where it is felted and
ranged in piles. The perfon who falts it
is careful to leave fufficient fait between
the rows of fiih, to prevent them touching
each other, and yet not too much, as either
»
excefs would fpoil the cod.
The right of fiftiing upon the Great
Bank, by the law of nature, ought to have
been common to all mankind $ but England
and France, being the only two powers
that had colonies in North America, made
no fcruple to appropriate to themfelves,
what
THROUGH AMERICA. I3
what Spain certainly had thfe greateft claim
to, as the original difcoverers of it; and
who, from the number of her monks and
priefts, as well as her religion, might have
pleaded the neceffity of keeping. Yet at
the conclufion of the laft peace, they
entirely gave up all pretenfions to it : lince
which time England and France are the
only nations that frequent thofe latitudes,
and both have frigates continually cruiz-
ing, to prevent the encroachments of other
nations.
The produce of this fifhery is certainly
a mofl: inexhauftible wealth to both coun-
tries, and it is ho wonder they are fo very
tenacious of it : yet it is furprizing what a
large circuit the fhips are obliged to take
before their voyage is compleated, and
*he profits refulting from this fifhery
returns to either, nearly traverfmg by
water half the globe : for/ in the firft in-
fiance, they fail from their refpe&ive ports
in
14 INTERIOft TRAVELS
in Europe to thefe Banks, from whence
they proceed with their cargoes to the
Mediterranean and African iflands, where
they difpofe of their fifh for the produce of
thofe iflands, then go to the Weft Indies,
to exchange that cargo, and return home
laden with fugars and rum*
T
It appears a very Angular circumftance,
that thefe Banks fhould abound with cod
and no other fifh $ and that the greateft
philofophers have never been able to ac-
count for it.
The Captain of the fhip that jls waiting
for our letters growing impatient, obliges
me to make a hafty conclufion, with wifh-
ing you health and happinefs, and allur-
ing you that you fhall hear from me as
fbon as I arrive at Quebec.
I am,
Yours, &c.
LET,
THROUGH AMERICA, t$
LETTER IIL
S&bic, Otf. %tb t 1776,
DEAR SIR*
AF T E R a fatiguing paflage of eleven
weeks, attended with no little dan-
ger, we are fafe arrived at Quebec, which
before I proceed to give you any defcrip-
tion of, it will be more methodical to re*
late the occurrences that befel us the re-
mainder of our voyage,
I told you in my laft, that we had fri-
gates cruizing on the Banks, one of which
informed us, that there were feveral priva-*
teers in the river Saint Laurence. Had we
been lefs attentive to, and more apprehen-
five of the fhoals and fands that river
abounds with, rendering its navigation dif-
ficult
l6 INFERIOR TRAVELS
ficult and dangerous, it would have been
better for us j for a few days after we had
pafled CapeRofier, a favorable wind fpring-
ing up, . the Captain crouded all the fail
he poffibly could, in order to get the next
morning to the ifle of Bee, where he might
find a pilot, being very uneafy, as he had
never been up that river before.
But to our great furprize and aftonifh-
ment, about one o'clock in the morning,
we run right upon a ftioal (which is called
Mille Vache) with amazing violence.
A fhip belonging to the fleet that had
gone a head in the day time, and perceived
the fhoal, (being low water) had immedi-
ately brought too, to warn us of our dan-
ger, which they did, by firing fignal guns.
But the Captain miftaking them for thole
of a privateer,, returned the fhot.
The
\
Through America* ij
The fhip beat with great violence, and
was every moment expefted to go to pieces ;
but the tide foon turning, fhe refted upon
the ground, and to our great aftonifhment,
at the break of day, we found ourfelves fo
near the fhore, that, to ufe a fea phrafe,
we could almoft chuck a bifcuit- on it.
Upon the clearing up of a fog, a fhip
was difcerned, which proved to be the
fame that had fired guns in the night time :
fhe was then about three leagues diftant.
We immediately fired guns of diftrefs, of
which fhe took no notice, and imagined
fhe had, as too frequently is the cafe,
deferted us, becaufe we were in diftrefs and
flood in need of her afliftance.
However, we found friends in a quarter
we little expe&ed, for a canoe with three
men paddled from the fhore, one of whom
came on board and told us, we were very
fortunate to have ftruck at the time of
Vol. I. C fpring-
l8 INTERIOR TRAVELS
§
fpring-tides, or there would be no prooa*
bility of the fhip's being got off. He
dire&ed us, when the tide was coming in*
to carry out the bow anchor the length of
the cable/ and then made no doubt, but at
the full, the fhip would float again, and we
might warp off.
»
After having given every proper in-*
ftru&ion, he took his leave, requefting,
at the fame time, that in cafe we were fa
unfortunate as not to effeft it, we would
come afhore to his houfe, offering every
afliftance to fave the cargo, and with a floop
of his to take us up the river*
At the return of the tide fome men were
fent out with the anchor, according to the
direftions given; at the heighth of it we
floated, and to the joyful fatisfaftion of
every one, got clear off, fuftaining no other
damage than the lofs of two anchors : yet
fuch was the Captain's care and anxiety for
his
THROUGH AMERICA. f£
*
his owners, that, I am per&aded, he
would not have expreffed half the concern
for the iofs of the whole (hip's burthen and
* i
Company, that he did for his anchors: as
with Captains of hired tranfports, the crew
and the cargo are but fecondary obje&s.
\S
This is one iilftence of the ntimberlefs
{accidents that await tranfports, by which,
I am convinced, the fervice is retarded,
and inany operations, however critical,
which depend on troops and provifion, are
often f ruftrated, either by defign or negli-
gence. For only figure to yourfelf what
a fituation an army of fo many thoufands
is that we have upon the Continent, and,,
thofe chiefly fed with provifions from the
Mother Country, muft be in, upon the
flighted delay*
It is much to be lamented, therefore,
that all tranfports are not commanded by
King's officers, or at leaft the mafter made
C 2 more
20 INTERIOR TRAVELS
more fubjedl to coritroul, when under 1
convoy, or naval orders; as it would
prevent the inconvenience and hazard that
is continually happening to the King's
fervice, - .
>
You will fuppofe it furprizing that this
has never been noticed and remedied by
thofe in power. I fhould have thought
the affair of the powder-fhip that went
t * V
into Bofton, would . have occafioned a
thorough inveftigation of this iniquitous
bufinefs*
The Captains of tranfports in general,'
,are a fet of people who have their own in-
tereft much more at heart than the welfare
of their country; and it is well known
that many of them are difaffe&ed to Go-
vernment, which was the cafe of the Cap-
-
tain of the fhip juft alluded to, but where
the blame is to be imputed, is not for me
to fay. As in all probability you may
not
THROUGH AMERICA. 21
mot have heard of this affair,, or the real
truth of it may not have reached you, I
fhall relate the matter, as I had it from a
Captain of a fhip who failed in the fame
fleet, whofe veracity can be relied on, and
from the amazing ftrange circumftances
which attended the lofs of that fhip, you
jnay form your Qwn opinion?.
It feems this veffel was an immenfe
charge, containing 1500 barrels of gun-
powder, befides a great quantity of other
warlike ftores. Several perfons well dif-
pofed to/Government, and who were per-
fe&ly aquainted with the Captain's prin-
ciples, informed thofe who had the direc-
tion of tranfports at Cork, that this man
would, the very firil opportunity, leave
the convoy and join the Americans, but
no attention was paid to the information ;
vpon which they exprefled their apprehen-
fions to the Captain of the frigate was
to convoy them out, who promifed to
C 3 take
22 INTERIOR TRAVELS
take all poflible care of that fbip during
the voyage: and every one in the fleet
thought he was not the man reprefented,
as he kept clofe under the ftern of the
frigate. 4
When the fleet eame off Bofton harbour,
a frigate, that wa? cruizing for the purpofe,
informed them, that the King's troops had
evacuated Bofton, and gone to Halifax ;
and in the fleet's failing to that place, in
one of thofe fogs that I have already de-
fcribed to you, the Captain of the powder-
fhip feized the opportunity, left the fleet,
and failed back for Bofton, at the mouth '
of which harbour was ftationed a fifty-gun
(hip, to prevent any veffel from going in,
that might have efcaped any of the fri r
gates that were cruizing.
Upon the Captain of the tranfport's
being interrogated by the man of war,
he acknowledged himfelf bound for Bof-
ton,
THROUGH AMERICA, 2J
ton, that he had not heard of the
troops evacuating it, and feveral more
jexcufesj but fome doubts and fufpicions
arifing from the man's converfation, and
fhe being found a fhip of fuch an im-
menfe treafure, an officer was fent on
board her, and as the evening was cpming
on, lafhed her to his main-maft, intending
to fail her the next morning for Ha-
. lifax, under the beft convpy he could
afford,
But to fhew you what a determined
villain the Captain of the tranfport was, in
the night time, he confined the Lieute-
nant, who was fent on board, cut away
from the man of war, and under cover of
the night, made all poflible expedition to
get into Bolton*
The tide would not anfwer his purpofe
that time, and the man of war could not
come up to her, for want of a Sufficient
C 4 depth
24 INTERIOR TRAVELS
depth of water. The Captain manned his
pinnace, and fent another Lieutenant on
board her. Upon the officer's attempting
it, the Captain ftruck a harpoon into his
Ikullj he fell into t^e boat, and the reft
finding a great refiftance, and that they
were likely to be overpowered, rowed back
again.
The tide now turned, and he got the
fhip fafe under the cannon of the Ameri-
cans, before a greater force could be dif-
patched to retake poffeflion of her.
The lofs on our fide was great indeed,
but the advantage to the Americans was
* *
tenfold, as they were in the utmoft diftrefs
for thofe materials, and which event may
in fome meafure procraftinate this unfor-
tunate war.
■
Two days after our late accident, we
arrived off the ifle of Condre, where we got
a pilot,
THROUGH AMERICA.
25
a pilot, and three days after anchored fafe
in the bafon of this city.
Fearful of being too late to fend this by
a fhip that is juft failing for England, there
is only time to allure you, that I fhall
embrace every opportunity of convincing
you, with how much fincerity and friend-
fliip I am,
Yours, &c.
LET-
26 INTERIOR TRAVEE4
LETTER IV.
gue&ec, October 1 $tb % 1,77$*
MY DEAR FRIEND,
"D EFORE you have any account of
■*^ this city and its environs, I fhall de-
fcribe to you the river Saint Laurence,
which, upon their firft failing up it, is the
aftonifhment and admiration of every Eu-
ropean. In forming an idea of a river,
people in general are apt to judge by com-
parifon : thofe who have made the tour of
Europe, inftantly call to mind the Rhine
and the Danube ; thofe who have not, the
Thames. What will you fay, when you
are informed that thefe, though very noble
and beautiful, are but mere rivulets, when
put
THROUGH AMERICA. 2j
put in competition with that of Saint
Laurence.
This river iffues from lake Ontario,
taking its coxirfe north-eaft, walhing Mon-
treal, where it receives the Outtuais, form-
ing many feftile iflands, and a lake which
is called St. Pierre- It continues the fanie
courfe, and meets the tide 400 miles from
the fea, where it is navigable for large
vefiels. After receiving in its progrefs in-
numerable ftreams, this great river falls
into the ocean at Cape Rofier -, it is there
90 miles broad, where the cold in ge-
neral is fevere, and the fea rather boif-
terous. In its progrefs it forms variety of
bays, harbours and iflands, many of the
■
latter being extremely fruitful and plea-
fant.
The river Saint Laurence has ever been
looked upon as a good defence to this pro-
vince, for in the neighbourhood of Quebec,
it
v
2& INTERIOR TRAVELS
it abounds with hidden rocks, with ftrong^
currents in many places, which force the
lhips to make various windings.. From
the time that Quebec was befieged by Sir
William Phipps, in. the year 1690, who
was obliged to retire with a great lofs of
fhipping, this river was very little known
to the Englifh till the year 1759, when
Sir Charles Saunders, with a fleet of 50,
Englifh men of war, and near 300 fail of
tranfports, arrived off Quebec, without
the- lofs of a fmgle fhip, which clearly
proves thofe dangers were not fo great as
had been reprefented. Since that time it
has been better known ; and though we
have not at prefent at this place fo many
men of war, yet there are near as many
tranfports, notwithstanding the navigation
up this river from the fea is rendered very
dangerous, by the ftrength of the current
and the number of fand-banks> which fre-
quently arife in places where they never
appeared before \ the fatal confequences of
which
THROUGH AMERICA. 29
which fevcral veffels have experienced this
war.
There are abundance of porpoifes in the
river St. Laurence, which are moftly white,
and when' they rife to the furface of the
water, have the appearance of an hog
fwimming. At night, if I may be allowed
the expreffion, without being accufed of
an Iricifm, they caufe moft beautiful firt
works in the water : for being in fuch abun-
dance, and darting with amazing velocity,
a continued ftream of light glides through
the water, and as fhoals of them frequently
crofs each other, the luminous appearance
is fo pi6hirefque> that no defcription can
reach it.
On our entering the river St. Laurence,
we faw, off the ifland of Anticofti, a great
number of feals, one of which we caught.
This animal is generally ranked amongft
the clafs of fifh, although produced oh
land,
£6 iNTfeRtOk TRAVELS
land; and living more there than in water.
Its head refembles that of a maftiff, it has
four paws which are Very fhdrt, efpecially
the hinder ones* ferving rather to crawl,
than to walk upon, and refembling fins ;
but the fore feet have claws ; the (kin is
exceeding hard and covered with fliort
hair ; they are Srft white, but as they
grow up turn to fandy or black, and fome
of them are of three different colours *
There are two forts, the larger weighing
hear two thoufand pounds, and have a
(harper fnout than the others. I .have
been told that the Indians have the art of
taming thefe creatures, fo as to make them
follow like a dog.
I am led to imagine they couple and
bring forth their young on the rocks, from
this reafon, wherein the powerful inftind
of nature (hewed itfelf very predominant-
ly : one day, feveral large ones that had got
their
Trough America." 31
their young on their backs, dropt them
now and then into the water and took
them up again, which no doubt, as being
brought forth upon land, was to teach
them to fwim ; it is not very furpr izing,
when it is confidered this animal is amphi-
bious : but the mode is, exa&ly the fame,
only changing the element with that of
the feathered creation, whofe little ones
flutter from fpray to fpray, before they
venture to fly abroad. The eagle carries
her young, to train them up to encounter
boifterous winds*
Thefe animals are caught on the coaft of
Labrador. The Canadians go to this frozen
and almoft uninhabitable coaft, in the
middle of O&ober, and remain there till
June ; their mode of catching them is by
placing nets between the continent and a
few fmall iflands, where coming in fhoals
from the eaft, in attempting to pafs, thefe
ftraights, they are caught % they then con-
vey
32 INTERIOR TRAVELS
vey them to land, where they remain
frozen till the month of May ; the oil is
then extra&ed from them, and it is faid
that feven or eight of thefe animals will
yield a -hogfhead. The ufe of its fkin
is fo generally known, it needs no de- '
fcription - y its flefh is allowed to be very
good, but if you had partaken of it, as I
have done, you wpuld coincide with me in
opinion, that it turns to better account
when converted into blubber/
The tide goes a league beyond Tfois
Rivieres, which is thirty leagues higher
up the river. The difference of the tide
at this place is generally between forty-five
and forty-eight feet, but at the new and
full moon, from fifty-four to fifty-feven,
which is very confiderable.
The river is three quarters of a mile
broad here, and as the fea water, though
it does not come up, immediately to the
town,
THROUGH AMERICA; 33
town, renders it foiflewhat brackifh, the
inhabitants make ufe of it only for Culi-
nary purpofes, having fpring water for
their beverage.
In failing tip thexiver St. Laurence, the
firft plantations you meet with are about
fifty leagues on the fguth, and* twenty on
the north fide of the river, below Quebec :
they are but thinly fcattered, and their
produce very indifferent. The fertile fields
commence near the capital, which I am
informed grow better, the nearer you ad-
vance to Montreal.
About half way up the river, we came
to the Ijles aux Oifeaux, and paffed them
about the diftance of a cannon fhot ; they
are two rocks that rife up in a conical form,
about 60 feet above the furface of the
water, the largeft of which appeared to be
about two or three hundred feet in circum-
ference ; they are very near one another,
Vol.L D and
34
INTERIOR TRAVELS
and there does not appear a fufficient
depth of water between them for a fmall
lhallop. It is difficult to fay what color
thefe are of, as both furface and banks are
entirely covered with the dung of the
birds that refort thither 5 however, there
were difcernable in places fome veins of a
reddifh call.
One of the mates of the fhip faid he had
been on them, and had loaded a fmall fhal-
lop with eggs, which were of different
forts, and that the ftench arifing from the
dung was almoft infupportable. Befides
the fea-gulls, and other fowls from the
neighbouring lands, there is found a
fpecies that cannot fly. It appears to me
wonderful, in fo prodigious a multi-
tude of nefts, how every one finds its
own. At my requeft, the Captain of the
Ihip fired a cannon fhot, which fpread the
alarm over all this feathered common-
wealth, when there arofe over the two
iflands
through America." 3£
iflands a thick cloud of fowl, at leaft two
or three leagues in circuit.
One material circumftance I forgot to
mention to you, happened in our voyage
to this place. In the middle of Auguft,
after we had been incommoded' for feveral
days with exceflive heats, one morning,
foon after we got up, we felt fuch an in-
tenfe cold, that both the Captain and my-
lelf were obliged to put on our great coats.
We could by no means imagine the caufe of
this alteration, the weather being extremely
fine, and particularly as the wind did not
blow from the north. But on the third
morning, juft before day-break, a failor
called out with all his might, " luff, luff,"
which the man at the helm had fcarcely
done, when an enormous piece of ice patted
along-fide of the veffel, which infallibly
muft have dafhed her to pieces, had (he
ftruck againft it. At day-break we faw it,
when it appeared to be about fix times as
D 2 large
36 INTERIOR TRAVELS
large as our fhip, and twice the heighth of
its rilalts. You well know that only one
third of ice, while fwimming, appears
above water, and when that is confidered,
I do not wonder that the ignorant fhould
not readily aflent to the relations given by
travellers, of thefe frozen productions of
nature.
Having already fwelled this letter be-
yond its intended limits, and wifhing to
avoid, as much as poflible, being too dif-
fufe on trivial fuhje£ts, I fhall conclude
it with my beft wifhes for your welfare
and happinefs, alluring you that I am,
with friendlhip and efteem,
Yours, &c.
» * •
r • •
LET-
tfHRbtfGff AMERICA," 27
*
< • <
JL E T T E R V,
\ Sf&c Q8. 24th, iyj6.
bv&k "Sir,
A G REE ABLE to my promife in a
•* *■ fohtier letter, 1 (hall now proceed
in the defcription of the river St. Laurence,
with fome occurrences which befel us,
previous to our arrival at Quebec.
One of the fineft bays to be met with in
going up the river, is that of St. Paul,
and as we were under the necefiity of an-
choring oppofite to it, till the return of
tide, I prevailed on the Captain to go on
fhore*
D 3 Upon
38 jntbrior travels
Upon our landing, the Prieft of the
parifh came and invited us to his houfe,
treating us with much hofpitality. He
was a man rather advanced in years, a
native of France, and poffefled of great
learning; he had been recommended by
the French Court to the Bifhop of Quebec,
while this province was under their go-
vernment, and, as I am afraid is th^ «afe
with too many well deferving chara&ers,
was poorly rewarded, by being made Prieft
of this finall parifh, for fome effential fer*-
vices he had rendered the French, which,
however, has many privileges annexed to
it,
From the grtat veneration and refpe&
that wa? fhewn him, one would naturally
conclude he was njuch beloved by his pa-
rifhioners, and his converfation turned
upon making them happy, by inftrufting
them both in religious and moral dijties,
encouraging induftry, and ^veiling them
of
1
I
THROUGH AMERICA, 29
of thofe innate favage difpofitions, which,
he obferved, the lower fort of Canadians
are but too prone to.
It was jmpoflible to fay which fhould be
moft admired, his fmile of welcome, the
neatnefs of the repaft, or the hilarity of
his converfation ; all of which gave me the
greater pleafure, when put in contrail with
the other French Priefts I have met with,
who are auftere and contra6ted, and fo
difgufting, that rather than fit down with
them, I would eat hay with my horfe.
This bay is about eighteen leagues be-
low Quebec, containing only this final!
parifh, which is fome diftance from the
ftiore of the bay, on a low plain, formed
by the river. It is furrounded with ex-
ceeding high mountains on every fide, ex-*
cepting one large gap, which runs parallel
to the river. The farms are at fome dif-
tance from each other, and the church is
D 4 reckoned^
40 INTERIOR TRAVELS.
reckoned one of the moft* ancient in Ca-
nada, which feems confirmed by its bad ar-
chite&ure, arid the want of ornaments ; the
■
walls are formed of pieces of timber, ere£t-
ed at two feet diftance* which fupport the
ropf, an4 between thefe timbers the fpace
is filled up with a kind of lime-flate.
The church has no fteeple, its roof is flat,
and above . this roof a bell is fixed in the
open air. , Moft of the country around this
bay belongs to the Prieft, who lets it to
the. farmers.
The inhabitants chiefly live by agri-
*
culture, and the profits arifing from their
commerce in tar, which they extra£t from
the red. pine, by making an incifipn -into
the tree in thefpring of the year, when the
• *
fap is rifing, and before the tree has (topped
running, it will produce feveral gallons of
turpentine, which they eafily manufa&ure
into tar .
It
H
THROUGH AMERICA* 41
; It may. be conje&ured, that the country
Situated upon the bay of this river being
low, it was originally part of the bottom
pf the. river, and was formed either by the
decreafe of water, or increafe of earth, car-
ried from the brooks, or thrown on it by
ftorms, as a great part of the plants that
grow here are marine. But in order fully
to inform myfelf whether it was really as I
apprehended, I enquired of feveral of the
inhabitant^, if ever they had found any
jfhells in digging, who anfwered, that they.
had never met with any thing but different
kinds of earth and fand,
* *
There is one thing very remarkable, of
which .we had a proof: the wind is gene-
rally different in the- bay. to what it is in
the river, for upon failing into the bay we
had as favourable a wind as could blow,
but in the moment of entrance, it was di-
re&ly the reverfe, which is thus acounted
for : the bay being furrounded on all fides,
except
42 INTERTOR TRAVEL
except one, with high mountains* and
covered with tall woods* when the wind
comes from the river, it ftrikes agaihft
fame of thefe mountains, where it is re-*
pelled, and confecjuently takes an oppofitc
dtire<5lion.
The people who inhabit this fcay, as
Ekewife thofe fettled lower down the river^
feem vtry poor *- they have the neceflaries:
of life in abundance, but debar themfelves
of the comforts that ftiould arife front
them* living chiefly upon bread and milk*
and carrying their other provisions* foch
as butter* cheefe* flefh, poultry, eggs* &c.
to market* where having difpofed of them*
they purchafe doaths, brandy* and drefles
for the Women. Yet notwithftanding
their pauvre manner of living, they arc
always chearful and in high fpirits.
Our objeft on going on fhore was not
fi> much to gratify our curioiity* is to
procure
THROUGH AMERICA,. 43
procure fpme vegetables ; and as the Cap-
tain of the ihip could not fpeak a word of
French, as indifferent a Frenchman as you
know me to be, I was obliged to be the
interpreter on this occaiion. I however
made the inhabitants underftand me very-
well, till I aiked for fbme potatoes, by the
ufual fchool term of pommes de terre, and
by which I uriderftand they are called in
France; yet, notwithftanding the Cana-
dians are allowed to fpeak as pure French
as at Paris, I could not make them com-
prehend what it was I wanted, the man
continually faying, Monfieur, je fuis hi en
facbi de ne pouvoir comprendre ce que vous
foubaitez ; at the fame time exprefling
great uneafinefs, as I repeatedly afTured
him, quefetois bienfur qui I en avoity which
feemed to vex him ftill more. How-
ever, in walking over his plantation, I
happened to fee a parcel in the corner of
a fhed \ pointing to them I faid, Voila
ce que je demande, upon which, with
great
44 INT.ERI.O*. TRAVELS
great joy in his countenance, he ex-i
claimed, Ob ! Mmfieun, ce font des put at ^
putat*, adding* with great ! heajtiiiefs,!
Quil etoit bien aife/Tetre en etatde me. fatis-
faire* Upon my. telling him* s in \Eng-:
land- we called them pommes dd ter^'faz
added, with a remark which I fhcftikL iiot
have expedfced, Que ce . nqm km ttfrve-i
twit mieux que tout autre. As I pai/& ]bimf
very liberally for the vegetables we .had of
him,, he faid, with -great expreifion of r .
gratitude* Ah I Monfieur y je tneifpuvien*-
drai , toujour *s de vos . bontes et des pommes de
- terre. > ,.:;... . -
Canada from the fertility of its foil, axuf
the. falubrity of its climate, you would
naturally imagine, contributed greatly to
its own profperity ; but thefe, as •in' moft.
other fituations, are counterbalanced by its •
difadvantages. Canada has only one river
for its exports ai>d imports, and even this is
fa blocked up with, ice, %s not to be navi-
gable
THROUGH AMERICA, 45
gable during fix months, while heavy fogs
render the navigation flow and difficult
the remainder of the year- . And although
the produce of Canada is fuperior to that
of the other provinces, ftUl the latter, not
having fimilar impediments to encounter,
will always have a decided advantage over
this, in thte convenience of almoft uninter-
rupted navigation.
The farm houfes. are moftly built of
timber, confifting of three or four rooms,
and in one they have an iron ftove, which
is rendered fo hot, as to communicate fuf-
ficient warmth to the reft. The roofs
are covered with boards, and the crevices
and chinks of the timbers are filled with
m
<%, and their out buildings are thatched
with ftraw.
Below the bay of Gafpey there is an
ifland, called IjleVerde ; on your approach
to it, it has the appearance of the frag-
ment
46 .INTERIOR TRAVELS
» •
ment of an old wall* being a fteep rock of
about thirty fathoms in length, ten in
heighth, and four in breadth, which the
pilot told us was reported formerly to have
joined Mont Joli y which ftands oppofite to
it upon the Continent. This rock has in
the center of it an opening, in the form of
*
an arch (through which a fmall fchooner
might pafs in full fail) ; from which cir-
cumftance, you will eafily imagine, it de-
rives its name of IJle Verde.
The laft objeft that attra&s your atten-
tion before you enter the harbour of Que-
bec, is the ifle of Orleans, a moft beauti-
ful large ifland, fituated in the middle- of
the river St. Laurence. It is feven leagues
and a half long, and two broad, in the
wideft part, very high, with fhores ex-
tremely fteep and woody, though in fome
places there is a gradual defcent to the
river, and where that is the cafe, it is en-
tirely free from woods, and upon thefe
lpots
THROUGH AMERICA* 47
fpots there are farm houfes cloJfe to the
ihore.
The ifle itfdlf is well cultivated, and the
eye is continually amufed With large flone
■
houfes, corn fields, meadows, paftures and
woods, with the addition of feveral good
ftone chuifches, lome of which ftarid fo
clofe to the river, and it being Sunday
when we parted the ifland, that we heard
than at mafs.
The river St. Laurence, till you come
to this ifland, is moftly four or five leagues
in breadth, but after you pafs it, fuddenly
narrows, fo as to be no more than a mile
broad at Qjiebec, and from which circum-
ftance this city derives its name, from the
Indian word Quebeio, or Quebec, which.
fignifies a ftrait or narrowing.
Shortly after we had parted this ifland,
Wid turned Point Levy ; we entered the
harbour,
48 INTERIOR TRAVELS
harbour, which has the appearance of a
large bay, for Point Levy ftretches itfelf
out towards the Ifle of Orleans, fo as to
hidfe the fouth channel 5 and that ifland
prqje&s fo as to conceal the north.
On entrance, you are ftruck with the
grandeur and confufion and variety of
objefts that prefent themfelves: fronting
is the city ; on the right is the beautiful
fall of Montmorency, and a view up the
river St. Charles ; on the left there is an
extenfive view up the river St, Laurence,
and over the falls of Montmorency ; a de-
lightful profpeft of feveral leagues round
the country, interfperfed with the villages
of Beauport, Charlebourg, &c. a particular
account of which I fhall give you in my
next.
I am, yours, &c.
LET-
» \
r'.
THROUGH AMERICA. 49
h E T T E ft tL
§>uelec, Ocldbfr Iftbi 1776.
iviY UEAR frRl£N0i
* ' * •••*•-•■
T N my defcnption of this province, you
•* muft not expeft a tirefome detail
of diftanceSj or a romantic defcnption of
the cotlntry, but a feto general obferva-
tidhS, as I (hall pafs through the different
parts of it, which are deferving notice.
This city, the capital of Canada, from
the Angularity of its fituation, boafts of
having that which no other city in the
known world poiTefles, a frefh water har-
boiir, an hundred and twenty leagues from
Vol. X E t^ie
ro INTERIOR TRAVELS
the fea, capable of containing an hundred
fhips of the line ; it is built in the form of
an amphitheatre, on the declivity of a pe-
ninfula„ formed by the rivers St. Laurence
and St. Charles, and commands a profpeft
over extenfive fields, which appears rich,
lively and beautiful.
This city fuffered fo much during the
long fiege, laft winter, that it will by no
means anfwer the beautiful defcription
given by. that elegant writer Mrs. Brookes,
in her Emily Montague, for many houfes
were deftroyed for fuel, others to prevent
harbouring the enemy, and fhot and fliells
continually defacing and burning the reft,
you muft eafily imagine, greatly contribute
to deftroy all ideas of regularity.
The city is divided into two towns, dif-
tinguifhed by the upper arid the lower y
which, during the fiege, were feparated by a
ftrong
V
TIjROtJG.H AMERICA, • £1
frrqtig^ .ilockade, Avhich.. proved., extrqpely
fort^iate + .for :us v .af : the .enemy, got into
the. lower., town, but .not being, able to
nearly: de/lroyed the wbple.of it. ,
Thei'e ate two communication^ from the
, l6wer.to ( the.uppe^.town > ,the one JF^ car-
riages^ by & terpentine road up a .yery fteep
afQent, ;: and the other for foot paflepgers,
r . np $ fljght of flep^put -out : of the wck-
, TJb^car^i^^oad, to the upper toyvn,
, as well aa t;he ftreetsj*} general,, are ajmpfl
4mp^ablfiior>eitlicr r m^ or ,be£ft, v £eyer
•s having ]aepn paved fince . the, fiege, , when
,-the, p^vejnent was, entirely tprn up,, that
\ the Shells might hury.themfelye^ in the
• ground before jhey burft, whereby i tjhey
. were. rendered lefs dangerous.
: The 4iHrefles of the inhabitants, in a
.-befieged town,, at all. times are very great;
E 2 but
52 Interior , + iiavels
but here they were rendered particularly
fo, from the extreme feverity of the
weather, being deprived of fuel, and com-
pelled to refide in their cellars, as the orfy
place that could afford them the leaft
flicker.
The Goverhofs hoiife Aahds upon An
high eminence, and being bomb-probf,
the family thought themfelves in perfect
feeurity : from its elevatioti tod, it Was
imagined to be out of the reach of cannon
fhot. Onfe evening, however, they were
rather unpleafantly convinced of th&r
error, by a fhot palling through ari ad-
joining roorii to that in Which they were
playing at cards j this threw them into ho
little confufion* aftd obliged them to retire
to that part of the houfe in which the
other inhabitants were compelled to refide.
You may remember, fome months be-
fore my departure from England, that
Mr,
THROUGH AMERICA. 53
Mr. W-*-, who is a bon vivant, jocularly
f pmarked, if he were confined to any fingle
room, it fhould be the cellar ; he was then
at the Governor's, enjoying his favourite
\yiih, happy as good company and good
wine could make him, the found of every
.cannon being the fignal for a bumper,
A Majpr who was here during the fiege,
expreffed his aftonifhment to me that the
glace held out fo long, having an amazing
feverity of weather ? and numberlefs other
difficulties to encounter; and that its
fafety was entirely pwing to the grqat
exertions of General Carleton, who con-
tinually encouraged the inhabitants tp
afrion, for they chiefly compofed the.
ftrength of the g^rifon,
The fuburb of St. Fauxbourg is entirely
fleftroyed, but that, as well as the lower
town, is now rebuilding, and when corn-
pleated, muft add greatly tp the beauty of
E3 ' '&$.
54' ' , * N TEKVO fc J T i R m A*Vt : LS *
tie city' There "are* fevferal- quays; and* a •
convenient plate fbf Heaving 1 dbvlfa fhips •
to be : impaired, called '^Cal'dk Sat, wHerethe
king's' fKipslay'up during4K£ winter, to
preferve them frbm ' danger tfpbn, the-
freezing and bffeakihg r ujp ; 6f the ice/vfrhich
is moi*e : hazardous than* you cair imagine";
for unlefs the fhips are got into this Cul
de Svc in ; proper tiiiie; they' are' very much
damaged^ arid' foirietimes totally Itffty by ;
tiid amdzifig iflkids of ice that float down
the river.
If His city is at prefent badly iiccbmmo-
• . ■ i • • ■ • ~
dated as to taverns, there being but one in
the upper, and another in the lower town,
both of thdii in the worft ftate imaginable ;
for although they provide good dirttiers,
the reft of the accommodations are fuqh as
would difgrace the meanelt pubiic-houle
in London, No attendance whatever from
fervants; no feperate apartments, and
fifteen or twenty people are obliged to
fleep
THROUGH AMERICA. 55
fleep in one room, about a yard apart from
each' other y ufually deprived' of natural'
reft in fuch vile dormitories/ one fcarcejy
feels refrefhed the whole day, ihil let me
aflure you, fmce I have beeh'here r , I have
not enjoyed a good night's repofe, from
the fonorous itiufic I airi furrounded with,
arifing from that natural and almoft uni-
verfal wind inftrument, the nofe. The
owners of thefe taverns imagine, if they
give good dinners and good wlrie^ they-
perform wonders. This, however, may be
faid in their favour, as to accommodation^
that this city has been for 'marty months
paid in a very deranged Hate* owing to the
J'ate fiege.
The Canadian's of the higher clafs are
very polite ana attentive to ftrahgers ; a
few days fince, I was invited to dine with
one of the principal merchants, chez Mon~
fieur Roberdeau; the dinner w&s entirely
after the French fafhion, arid difplayed
■ • *
E 4 ' ' with
56 JJJTERIOR TRAVEJ-9
with jnuch tafte, but fuch was tlie per-
verfenefs of my Englifli ftomach, that it
could not relifh one of their made difhes ;
and although I endeavoured to eat, out of
compliment; the matter of the houfe per-
ceived I did not do it wjth $ny gufto ; hq
then faid. Ah I Monfieur> vous nefaites que
dHarriver dqus ce pays ; quand vcus aurez ete
avec nous un certain terns, vous aimerez heau-
coup notre cut fine. J e fui s , bien fache que dfins
ce moment il ne fe trouve run a votre gout,
mats quand vous me ferez l\honneur de venir
tyte autrefois chcz moi> taurai join £ avoir du
ROAgqr.B£E£ et du ij^umb pudding que les
■'*■** ■ I 4..
Anglois aiment tant< When the defert came,
whichwas before the cloth was removed, I
made amends for my not being able to eat
at dinner, which the mafter of the houfe
obferving, faid, Ah I Monficur, ce ncjl pas
que vous ne vousfouciez pas d?s viandes, mats
♦
c.eji que voys e(es un pcu contme les enfans y
vous aimez les friandifes -, when, fearful left
J fhpuld be difpleafed at his raillery, with
a polite-
THROUGH AMERICA. 57
a politenefs truly French, he filled his
glafs, and added, Allons> Monjieur^ verjez
et vive k Roi iAngleterre.
Fearful of lofing the opportunity that
now prefents itfelf of conveying this to
England, I have but juft time fubfcribe
Yours, &c.
* » ., • > »
l-ET-
cS JNTEUJOR TRAVELS
LETTER VII.
Quebec, Qfitber %otb, 1776,
MY DEAR FRIEND*
JTpHE hafty conclufion I was obliged to
■*■ put to my laft, having prevented me
from entering fo fully into the defcription
of this city as I had intended, I now trans-
mit to you fome further particulars rela-
tive to its fiege, and the religion of its in-
habitants.
The cauieway by which General Mont-
gomery made his attack, is not more than
twenty-four feet wide; on one fide is a
lofty perpendicular rock, and on the other
a ftcep precipice, without any fence, down
to
THROUGH 'AMERICA. 59
to *the*'river j this taufesvay waj: defended .
byTCvo'fttOngbarrkrsi and were I induced
to' give an opinion, -nothing but a defperate
effoirt :cou!d juftify thdattadc. The event
fatally proved it; for upon the adyance
of the enemy, the firft barrier was aban-
doned, which, after they had broke down,
fluflied with fuccefs, and the hopes o£
eafily gaining the upper town, rfiey rufhed
on (with an intrepidity that might expeft
every thing from their valor) to the fe-
cond barrier, where two pieces of cannon
were concealed, and . upon their approach
were immediately fired, when great num r
bers of them were killed and wounded,
and in their retreat many fell down the
precipice; this defeat greatly contributed
to put an end to the fiege, the termi-
nation of which, had nearly been frus-
trated, by the eager impetuofity of the
failors, who were pofted with thofc guns,
as they could fcarcely be rcftramed from
firing them when the enemy attacked the
firft
00 INTERIOR TRAVELS
firft barrier, which, if they had done, the
(laughter vfrould not have been fo great, nor
the enemy perhaps have loft their brave
Commander. But by the threats of the
officers upon duty at that poft, the guns
were not fired till the enemy were within
a few yards of them -, and as they advanced
abreaft, as many as the caufeway would
admit . of, you may eafily conceive what
havoc there muft have been amongft them,
In tliis daring enterprize fell a man, wha
lived long enough to eftablifh a reputation,
Nee poterit ferrum, nee edax.ahobre. vetujias,
quod nee Jcvi* ira nee ignis> a& no doubt it
will be handed down by the Americans ta
the lateft ages. He died too foojx fo£ the
fupport of that unnatural faction, to.
which, from miftaken principles, he was
deeply attached -, and being a man wor-
thy of fome notice, you fhall know the.
little hiftory I have been able to collect of
him.
In
*"" THROUGH AMERICA. 6l
Ift the laft war he was an officer in our
- fervice, and diftinguifhed himfelf in feveral
inftances. At the peace he came over to
this country, and married an American
lady, where by his conduft and agreeable
. manners, he was refpe&ed as much as if
he had been a native ; and being, from his
marriage and long refidence in the country,
confidered as a man fit to be trufted with a
command, he was appointed Brigadier Ge-
neral by the Congrefs $ this compiiflion he
wifhed to decline, feeling a compunftion,
as a native of Great Britain, and once in
the King's fervice, to bear arms againft
his Sovereign. His wavering inclination
was unfortunately fubdued, by the over-
perfoafion of a fond wife, whom he loved
moft affe&ionately, and the importunate
folicitation of his relations and friends.
When he had taken a decided part, his
conduct fully correfponded with the high
opinion that had been formed of his abi-
lities and fidelity. No one who lived fo
fhort
62 . INTERIOR. TR.AYEtS
Ihort a time in their, employ, cto^ld lender
them more important: fervices- or do their
traufe more, honor; . •
Wheit he had been induced fo/f^rifijce
* the happinefs he enjoyed, in private? life,
and ehter into' the fervice of tfieJCongcefs,
he was then abfolved from all views ad-
* verfeto* their party* (of which heitacj been
••. lufpeQred) ; and • confidered as a . mm ' r wh&
- took a rpartiin the caafe from, cohfcience
and principle. In. this .light he was-vie^ed
while living,* and fjtoken;of wheadead. ^He
had' the rfingular felicity of . being .squally
jcfteemed by. the friends and faeso&fi-the
party he pfpcmfed y -the latter acknowledg-
ed his? worth; though. they reprobated die
caufe in which he fell. * To ,the:prdife /o£
General .Garleton*/iiis . remains were; by
the General's order;: interred withiali mi-
litary honors.
An
TliA6fJGH' AMERICA. "63
"Very 'ffibrtly ' after~ this repulfe, - an
f r *
'American ' foldier, in 'attempting ttf'ftep
• ' but of ^mk'dux? at Wdlfe'a Cove,' -fell
'" info ? the water,' and catering ' hold '«£-■ a
' Ifake'oF^e QiaC ^as^ijat&ig down, the
" river, J lfe got'npon it,' and was Vtarftfed
' ; dowri * tie r ftrekni: "As ,: he ; faffed -' Qgelsec.
" clofe : td ' l the'more, ^he : was- teeh by & cth-
' tihel/ : whd T <&fefving-^
* ; called brrt'Fdr ; hdp'; Wlieti ttumbefs'fe^to
his affiftance, and found him mbtitfnkfe ;
by the help of fpirituous liquors,, with
' "fome "difficulty they brought him tc> life for
" alnoftf&tty " and juft tdcoTering ; 'fpedch
"enough to 'tell them, that the city Would
j * hot long tte iii ovir poflfeffiori/ he iriftaritly
expired;' ,J
« >
A mile " from the" dty is a Convent, that
• • •
was bric£ pbfTefTedof a: : beautiful garden,
4 ' but this, asHvell as their chapel; with the
Images J and other ornaments of their 'reli-
: gibri, : are greatly ; injured. * The 'enemy,
after
64 INTERIOR TRAVELS
after taking poffeffion of the Convenfe
converted it into an hofpital, and com-
pelled the nuns to attend upon their fick
and wounded ; and what was ftill mord
*
perfecuting to their religion than to their
wifhes, feveral of the nuns, after they
had abandoned it, proved capable of in
fome meafure making up for the ravages
of war, by producing what may in future'
become the ftrength and fupport of their
country.;
There are feVeral churches in each toWn,'
but thofe in the upper are the moft mag-
nificent, and have fuftained the leaft da-
mage. The largeft of thefe churches, and
what may be termed the cathedral, has
nothing worthy of notice, except a hand-
fQme fteeple; it is entirely roofed with
Hate, and is the only building I obferved
that has this advantage, they being all
covered with fhingles. It is much orna-
mented in the infidej the gallery is bold,
light,
THROUGH AMERICA.
65
light, and well wrought, furrounded with
an iron balluftrade, fainted and gilt,
of curious workmanfhip ; one thing, how-
ever, appears very Angular, that the pulpit
is likewife gilt, and feems to have had
more labor bellowed -up6n $ • than it is ever
likely to have within it •, there ire three
altars handfomely defigned* and fome good
pidhires ; it is without any dome or cu-
pola, having only a flat ceiling, very euri-
dufly ornamented ; it is not as in moft
Cathedrals, paved with ftone, but floored
with planks, which makes this church the
more fupportable in winter; in others
you are generally ftarved to death with
cold. After the Homifh fervice is over,
on a Sunday, the Governor, with the offi-
cers and foldiers of the garrifon, and
the Proteftant inhabitants of the city, re-
fort thither to their worfhip. - This little
circumftance I mention to you, as the
palling of the Quebec bill made fuch a
noife in England > tlearly to {hew there
Vol. L F . is
i
66 INTERIOH fRAVEtS^
is no animofity among the inhabitants, on
the fcore of religion. Where the Cana-
dians, who conftitute the principal part of
the inhabitants of this province, did not
interfere with our religion, I cannot but
think it was a very neceffary and politic
ftep in Government to tolerate theirs ; as
at the time the bill paiTed, it was judged
proper to make this facrifice to them, in
order to gain their affe6tions > which feem-
ed to be wavering, whether they fhould
not join the other provinces in rebellion
againft England.
For my own part, I am led to imagine,,
from the converfation I have had with fe-
veral of the principal inhabitants, they
never were in the leaft apprehenfive of their
religion being fuppreffed, but that idea
was inftilled into their minds by fome
party at home, who, I am forry to obferve,
are more dangerous than any enemy we
can poflibly have abroad.
With
fHROBGH AMERICA* 67
With all the advantages of the laws of
our constitution, the toleration of their
.religion, and the bleffings of liberty, the
Canadians are by no means well aflefted
to the Englifh Government, but have a
ftrong propenfity to be under the protec-
tion of the French ; and, I am confident,
Would aflift the Americans, had we not
fuch a powerful force in this province.
The garrifon of this city, and a few
inhabitants at Montreal, are ftaunch to
the interefts of Government; for their
fidelity and courage have been proved;
upon the commencement of the fiege,
the General ordered every one out of the
city, that he could entertain the leaft fuf-
picion of, none of whom have fince made
their appearance.
The army is now returning from the
Lakes, and at prefent the garrifon confifts
of Colonel Maclean's regiment, and the
F 2 recruits
68
INTERIOR TRAVELS
recruits lately arrived from England ; the
34th regiment is daily expe6ted, as the
army is getting into winter quarters. Ge-
neral Carleton and General Burgoyne are
both here, the latter of whom fails for
England in a few days.
My friend'Captain W — rt, who is em-
barking for that country where my fondell
wifhes are placed, will deliver you this :
he has juft called upon me for my letters*
I muft therefore conclude. You fhall hear
from me by the lateft ihip that fails.
Yours, &c.
LET-
1
I
THROUGH AMERICA. 69
J.ETTER VIII.
Quelec, Nov. \th y 1776.
MY DEAR FRIEND,
VISITING two or three of the vil-
lages round this city, has enabled
jne to give you fome little defcription of
the country and its inhabitants,
About Charlebourg and Beauport it is
rather champaign^ but becomes more woody
towards Lorette, The farm houfes inter-
fperfed about the country are very nu-
merous, and being generally whitened on
the outfide, form a neat and pi&urcfque
appearance : their houfes moftly confift of
one floor, very few having a ftory to them,
which gives rife to the idea, that the Ca«
F 3 nadiang
JO INTERIOR TRAVELS^
nadians will tell a ftory well, though they
never make one.
You would be pleafed to find them
extremely neat in their houfes, very at-
tentive to their cattle, and careful of the
flock on their farms. They are at pre^-
fent employed in cutting and getting in
jvood for the winter, for themfelves and
the market, for though it i6 fo eprly, there
has been a fevere fall of fnow ; wood-cut-
ting continues all this month, and in De-
cember; when the winter is fet in, it is car-
ried into the city uponfleighs over the fnow,
being a much eafier conveyance than with
carts, as the roads are fo intolerably bad.
The Canadians in general are a fwarthy
people, and low in ftature; their drefs
confifts of a kind of jacket, and when the
weather is cold, a blanket coat, which
they fatten round them with a worfted
falh. They moftly wear a woollen cap,
but
THROUGH AMERICA.
7*
btt£ in the cold weather a fur one, and
have amazing long queues, of which they
are exceedingly proud. They are fel-
dom or 'ever found without a pipe iii
their mouths, a habit which they acquire in
' their very infancy. I was much furprized
upon going into one of their houfes, in
whiclf there was a large family, moftly
boys, to find, that from the youngeft up
*
to the father, they all fmoaked ; nay, one
of three years old had a pipe in his mouth.
Their ufual mode of living being chiefly
milk and vegetables, which, joined to the
number of the f aft flays impofed on them
by their religion, renders them a very
pieagr^ and flqnder people.
The women are extremely lively, goojU
jiatured and obliging, and very neat in
their perfons, but have not the leaft pre-
tention to beauty. The men are far from
agreeable, for fince they have enjoyed the
bleffings of an Englifh Government, they
F 4 are
J2 INTERIOR TRAVELS
are become infolent and overbearing, eafily
offended, and when they fancy themfelves
fb, their cry is, Je vais le dire au General
, Carleton ; and the General is of that good-
natured, affable difpofition, that he always
liftens to their coihplaints, and is conti-
nually plagued and tormented with fbme
of the moft trivial nature, by thefe trouble-
fome and tenacious people, for they con*,
ceive their Governor is bound to .hear
them, efpeeially their Seigneurs, or Lords
pf the village ; it is a title you have not
among you, but I affure you thofe who
poffefs it here, fancy themfelves of no little
importance, and affume more eorifequence
thaji the firft peer in England,
- Thefe Seigneurs are defcendants of thofe
officers and gentlemen who firft fettled, and
r
had grants in this province, when Canada
was only a vaft foreft ; who, not being pro-
per perfbns to cultivate it themfelves, nor
poffeffed of a fufficient fund to pay labour-
ers,
THROUGH AMERICA. 73
crs, let out the grounds at a very (lender
quit rent ; fo that with the fines, which
were here very fmall, and what is called
the Droit du Moulin, & Metairie> 2l lord-
fhip, which confifts of two leagues in
front, and an unlimited depth, can yield
them no great revenue; and there are
many planters on their manors, who by
their induftry have become wealthier
than the owner himfelf j notwithftanding
which they ftand in great awe of thefe
^Seigneurs, as they are defcended from an-
lient nobility in France, the forefathers
of whom were permitted by Louis XIV.
to exercife commerce as well by fea as land,
without queftion, interruption, or dero-
gating from their quality and rights ; and
4© you, who fo well know the French, I
need not fay in what manner any one de-
fcended from nobility condufts himfelf,
v and the hauteur he treats every one with.
About
7$ INTERIOR TRAVELS
About three leagues from this, city is a
nation of Indians, who live at a finall vil-»
lage called Indian korette : they *re quite
civilized, have a cfiurch, go regularly
to mafs, and are extremely ingenious in
making bead ornaments ?
Thefe Indians, who are really Chriftians t
of the Romifh perfuafion, have a chapel
built nearly on the model, and of the fame
dimenfions as that I have heard you relate
you met with in Italy, of Santt Cafa, aad^
as in that, have an image of . the Virgin*
which, upon enquiry, appears to be a copy
of that very ftatue. Whether it was the
effect of imagination, devotion, or of any
other caufe, I cannot fay, but upon at-*
tending the chapel, I was feized with an
inward and facred terror, of which I can
give no account. The folid piety of
the Indians, (whom we are taught to be r
lieve fo naturally ferocious, as no edifi-
cation, religious or moral, can overcome)
added,
THfttOUOH AMERICA* $$
-added to the gloomy horror of the fitua- ,
tion, made a violent \mpreffion upon me,
which became the more, ftrong, upon db+
ferving the fervor and modefty Which they
4ifplayed ift their devotions. ~
Thefe Indians had a great number
of dogs with them, which feeflns to be
the only domeftk animal they breed;
they are grained up for hunting, and
^ire equal to any hounds ; appearing
. to be all of one fpecies, having upright
icars, of dark brindled color, with a long
ihout, like that of a wolf. None of our
Englilh dogs are more remarkable for their
fidelity, which is rather to be wondered at,
being but very ill fed, and never carefTed
ijythem.
As hereafter, and no doubt before my
return to England, I fliall meet with many
Indians of different nations, cuftoms and
manners,
y6 INFERIOR TRAVELS
manners, give me leave to make a few re-
fleftions upon thefe favages, as they are
called, and civilized man.
In regard to the former, their .origin
and antiquity is quite uncertain -, the only
matter, therefore, to be confidered is, whe-
ther thefe untutored nations are more or
lefs happy than us ? Whether they, who
are in the condition of man left, to mere
animal iriftinft, paffing their lives in hunt-
ing, feeding, producing their fpecies, and
repofing themfelves, do not pafs a life of
more felicity than ours, who can. enjoy
every luxury of life,, ancl vary our indulge
ences and wants in a thoufand w^ys?
. It is in our nature and difpofitions, that
we muft look for the means of happinefs.
Wherein then does it confift? Prefent fub-
fiftence, and (which I think there can be
none fo hardened as not to have) a thought
of futurity, and the hopes of enjoying
every
THROUGH AMERICA. J J
bleffing that is attendant on it. The ' fa-
vage never is in want j he lays in no ftores,
becaufe the earth and waters are refervoirs
to fupply them. Fifh and game are to be
had all the year. The favage has no houf?
to fecure him from the inclemency of the
external air, or commodious fire places, his
furs anfwering all thefe purpofes. His
labor is but for his own benefit j he fleeps
when he is weary, and is a ftranger to reft-
lefs nights. Little does he experience
wearinefs that arifes from unfatisfied de-
fires, or that uneafinefs of mind which
fprings from prejudice or vanity. As far as
I can perceive, the Indian is fubjedt to no
evils but thofe infli&edby nature.
In what manner then do we enjoy a
greater happinefs ? Our food may be more
wholefome and delicate, oyr cloaths may
be fofter, . and our habitations fecure us
better againft the weather ; but then ob-
ferve the common people, who are the fup-
. port
JT&, INTERIOR TRAVELS
port of civil fociety ; the number of mert
who in all ftates bear the burtherl of labor *
can they be faid to be happy, who, by th$
luxury and police of their governments,
are reduced to a ftate of fervitude ? And
to what outrages are thofe in a higher
fphere expofed to ? If you are poffeffed of
any property, you know not how far it
may be called your own, but muft, in all
probability, divide the produce between the
lawyer, in teaching you how to preferve it,
and the collector, who comes to levy un-
limited taxes. If you have no property*
how can you be aflured of a permanent
fubfiftence ? What induftry or invention
is fecure againft the viciffitudes of fortune,
or the encroachment of others.
In the forefts of America, if there is any
fcarcity in the north, the favages bend their
courfe to the fouth - 9 but in our civilized
ftates, we are confined within certain li-
mits, where if famine, or war, or peftilence,
with
THROUGH AMERICA* 79
with all their concomitant hotfrors, fhould
befal us, -all muft participate.
It certainly is apparent to every one,
that iiijuftice prevails in the partial dif-
trihution of fortunes and ftations, which
muft be the effeft and the caufe of oppref-
fion. In vain does cuftom, prejudice,
ignorance, or hard labor, ftupify thofe of
the lower clafs, fo as to render them in-
fenfible of their degradation ; it is not in
the power of religion or morality to hin-
der them from feeing and feeling the ar-
rangements of policy, in the diftribution
of what we call good and evil ; and, no
doubt, you muft have often heard a poor
man expoftulating with heaven, " What
have I done, that I {hould deferve to be
born in fuch an indigent and dependent
fituation ?"
The reafon we prefer our condition to
that of the favages is, becaufe civilization
has
8o INTERIOR TRAVELS
has rendered us incapable of bearing fomc
natural hardfhips, which they can endure ;
and fimply that we are attached to fome
indulgence cuftom. has made neceffary to
us. As a proof of this aflertion, and how a
civilized man may habituate himfelf to the
fociety of favages, and return to this ftate
of nature, let me relate the fituation of a
Scotchman, who was caft away upon the
Ifland of Fernandezy where he lived alone ;
his only enjoyments confided in fupplying
his wants, and to fuch a pitch had his ideas
of happinefs raifed themfelves, that he for-
got his country, his language, his name,
and even the articulation of words. And
after a banifhment of four years, from the
burthens of focial life, he had loft all
thought of the paft, or anxiety for the
future. *
One of the firft principles we imbibe,
one of the firft inftin&s of man, is* a
confcioufnefs of independence 3 and no
doubt
4 THROUGH AMERICA. 8l
doubt but you muft have obferved, that
the man who poffeflfes a competent fubfift-
enceis incomparably happier than the rich
man, who is reflxained by prejudices and
fafhions, which inceffantly are remincling
him of the lofs of his liberty, and which
too frequently are the occafion of the rafh
and fatal a£t of filicide.
In comparing the ftate of the favages to .
that of children, the queftion may eafriy
be decided, which has been fo warmly in
' debate among the moft learned men, " whe-
ther the ftate oFTikture has the advantage
over that of fecial life?" And you, no
doubt, will readily allow, that your ftatQ
of childhood, notwithftanding the reftraint
of education, was the happieft period of
your life. , Nothing furely can more clearly
indicate the happinefs that childitffo feel,
than that habitual chearfulnefs they de-
monftrate, when not under the fchool-
matter's rod.
Vol, I. G After
St Interior tkAVELfc
After all> a firigle worid may determine
this great queftion. Let Us aik the civil-
ized man if he is happy 5 and the favage
whether he is unhappy? If they both
anfwer in the negative, there is an end of
the difpute.
How mortifying muft this parallel be
to civilized nations ? And the more- painful
the refle&ion, is it awakens the feelings
to the caufe of their fufferings $ no doubt
but they will one tittle or other be con-
vinced frofn whence it arifes — from the
confufioh of their opinions, from the de-
fers of their political conftitutions, and
from the capricioufiiefs of their laws,,
which ever are in continual oppofition to
the laws of nature. But for fear yotl
think I am growing too fententious, I
fhall return to my defcription of this pro-
vince.
The
«
THROPQU AMERICA^ 83
The woods pf Canada abound with 3
large kind of rabbits, which are of % broyfij
color in the fummer, and turn white \n
the winter, ont of the effbfts of the ex-
treme cold or fnow that prevails in this
climate ; we found likewife vaft quantities
of partridges, much larger thanours, which
the Canadians call pbeafants * there are
two forts of them* the fpruce and the pine :
the meat of the former is very delicious,
to thofe who are fond of the flayor of the
fpruce. The market at this place is well
fupplied with all kind of provifion, fift*
and vegetables in abundance.
The place beft adapted to repay the la-
bours of the hufbandman, are pointed out
to him by the fpontaneous produftions
of nature; where the pine, the fir-tree,
and the cedar grow folitarily, there he
finds only watry and fandy grounds : but
wherever the foil is covered with maple,
oak, beech, yoke, elm, hickory, and fmall
G 2 cherry-
84 INTERIOA TRAVELS
cherry-trees, there he is certain to meet
With a reward for his trouble of clearing
away the woods, and may expeft a great
increafe, without the difficulty of ma-
nuring.
Being informed that the pacquet fails
this afternoon, and having feveral other
letters to write, a further account of this
province muft be delayed till my next ; and
in hopes you will pardon my breaking off
fo abruptly, and leaving you in a ftate
of fufpence, I remain,
Yours, &c,
LET-
THROUGH AM??ICA.
«5
LETTER
IX.
$>uekc+ Novtmbir $tb, 1776.
MY PEAR FRIEN© ?
OBLIGED to conclude myiaft rather
haftily, I fhall refume my obferva-
tions on this province, without any apo-
logy.
Moft of the plantations in Canada arc
fufficient to fupply the wants of their re-
fpeftive owners, and there are few of them
that do not yield rye, maize, barley, flax»
hemp, tobacco, pulfe and pot-herbs, in
great abundance, and thofe pf an excelleijt
quality.
G 3
it
86 INTERIOR TRAVELS
It is capable of furnifhing many articles
for a trade with the Weft Indies, which
was wholly negle&ed, whilft this province
was under the French Government ; but
fince in our poflfeffion, great quantities of
flour, planks, and timber, proper for build-
ihg, have been exported to them : and as
there is perhaps no countiy in the whole
world which produces more forts of wood^
or of a better quality, you may eafily
judge what immenfe riches may be drawn
.from thence, it confifting principally of
•woods,
I know not whether giving you an ac*
count of the extenfive forefts of Canada,
-will afford you 'any entertainment; but
when I inform you that they have the ap-
pearance of being as ancient as the world
itfelf, and were never planted by the hand
pf man, I think you will find fome amufe-
ment in the defcription of them.
On
THROUGH AMERICA. 87
On my firft arrival in this country, I was
ftruck with the loftinefs of the pines, fir-
trees, and cedars, which are of a fize per-
f eftly aftonifhing. There are two forts of
pine, both pf them yielding turpentine.
The white p^nes produce, on their upper
extremities a kind of roufhroom, which the
Canadians adminifter in cafes of the dyfen-
tery. The red pines contain more turpen-
tine, are heavier, and do not grow to
»
fuch a thicknefs ; but where they flourifh,
the land is reckoii^ 797 S 0Q 4 *9 ra ^ e
corn.
There are fbveral fpecies of fir-trees,
which rife to a great height, are excellently
f alculated fpr mafts, as well as every fort
pf carpenter's work.
There are two forts of cedars too, the
white and red, the former of which grows
the thickeft, and the odour is in its leaves j
whereas, in the latter, the odour is in the j
G 4 wood,'
88 INTERIOR TRAVELS
wood, and far more agreeable. Of thefe
trees the Canadians make palings, but
moftly fhingles for covering their houfes,
from its extreme lightnefs.
4
t
AH over Canada are two forts of oak ;
the white grows in low fwampy grounds,
'V
the red in dry fandy lands,
There are three forts of walnuts; the
hard, the foft, and another with a thin bark.
The hard fort hegtr a fmall nut, very good
to eat, but apt to occaljon coftivenefs, the
wood of whiqh is only fit to burn. The
teijder bears a large fruit, with a hard {hell,
the kernels of which are excellent: the
wood of this tree is lingularly curious,
being almoft incorruptible in water or in
the ground, and difficult to confume
in the fire : of this wood the Canadians
make their coffins . The third fort pro-
duces a nut which is exceedingly bitter,
but
•THROUGH AMERICA.' 89
but yields an excellent oil, ufed by the ini
habitants for their lamps,
*
Beech and elm trees are in great abun-
dance; and in the thickeft woods are Found
yafl numbers of chefty and plumb-trees.
«
There are an infinite number of others,
but as I am no Botanift, you will pardon
my giving an account of what is here in
fuch variety, that perfons who have taken
the moft unremitting pains to difcover
them, have not been capable of defcribing
half their number, I fhall conclude this
heavy detail of trees, with that of the
maple, which boafts of many excellent
qualities.
The maple tree yields in great quantities
a liquor which is cool and refrelhing, with
an agreeable flavor. The Canadians make
a fugar of it, a very good peftoral,
and ufed for coughs. There are many
trees
£0 INTERIOR TRAVELS
trees that yield a liquor they can convert
into fugar, but none in fuch abundance as
■
the maple, Yqu will no doubt be fur-
prized to find, in Canada, what Virgil pre-
dicted of the Golden Age ? gt dura quercu%
fudabunt rofcida mella.
The flock of the farming part of the
inhabitants in this province, confifts gene-:
rally of about a fcore or two of fheep, ten
or twelve cows, and five or fix pxen for the
plough ; the cattle are fmall but excellent,
and the people, fince they have been zander
the Englifh Government, live in a degree
of eafe and hatppinefs ijnknown to the
country people in England, and a*e now
improving their farms and enriching than.,
fclves very faft. Before the commence-
ment of the war, they ufed to export vaft
quantities of wheat and all forts of grain^
to the other provinces and the Weft India
iflands ; but when under the French Go-
vernment, they were fo oppreffed by their
Seigneurs x
THROUGH AMERICA* 91
{Seigneurs, that they never raifed more
grain than would ferve themfelves and the
ftock on their farms ; whenever they did,
it was generally claimed by the Seigneurs
for the ufe of Government, The Cana-
dians were at that time a very indolent fet
pf people: now they reap the fweets of
fheir induftry, and are quite the reverie.
I wait yefterday to view the Fall of
Montmorency, which is really beautiful.
The breadth of it is not above ten or
twelve yards, and its perpendicular height
pne hundred and twenty feet ; by the vio-
lent fall of fuch an immenfe body of wa-
ter, there is always a thick fog of vapors,
which occafions a continual rain, for fomc
diftance round the bottom. Anxious to
examine it as minutely as poffible, I ap-
proached within twelve yards of the Fall,
when a fudden guft of wind blew fuch a
thick fog off the fpray, that in lefs than a
minute I was as wet as if I had walked half
an
9£ ' INTERIOR TRAVELS
an hour in a heavy fhower, which, how-
ever, did not prevent my endeavouring to
iatisfy my curiofity, for I perfevered, In
hopes of accomplifhing my wifh, which,
like many of our ardent purfuits, did not
bring me that reeompence I had flattered
myfelf it would ; for having obtained the
purport of my intention* inftead of the
beautiful appearance I had pi&ured to my
imagination, to be difcerned between the
rock and the immenfe bojiy of water that
was falling from fuch 4 prpdigious height,
I found myfelf enveloped in a very thick
fog of fpray, fcarcely able to feg my hand
when extended, and where, in all proba r
bility, if I had continued five minutes, an4
the wind changed, I was in danger of t?eing
drowned. The noife occafioned by the fall
was fo great, that an officer who was with
me was obliged tofpeak as loud as he could,
to make me underftand any thing he faid.
It is fometimes heard at Quebec, which is
two leagues diftant to the fouthward, anfl
when
THROUGH AMERICA.' 9J
when that is the cafe, it is the fign of an
approaching ftrong north-eaft wind*
One thing remarkable is, that this plen-
tiful fall of water, which never dries
up, one would imagine, muft proceed from
fome fine river : but it is quite the reverfe,
it being only a puny ftream, which in fome
places is fcarcely fufficient to cover the
ankle •, it flows, however, conftantly, and
derives its fource from a pleafant lake,
twelve leagues diftant from the falls-
1 have vifited the plains of Abraham, t#
fee the remains of the enemy's encamp-
ment, and could not help contrafting thofc
who Jiad fo lately abandoned that place*
with the poffefTors of it when the brave
Wolfe fell ! Nor was it poflible to fupprefs
a figh to the memory of that gallant officer,
who, at fo early a period in life, had ac-
quired the efteem and admiration of all
mankind. While in the very arms of death,
he
94. iNtfeRIOR TRAVELS
added glory and conqueft to the Britifh
empire*
Nor could I help lamenting, at the fame
time, the fate of an officer of considerable
merit, though an enemy, the brave Mont-
gomery, who commanded the troops that
had fo lately abandoned this encampment,
and of whom I have already fpoken : he
pofleffed all the fire of military ardor*
ruflied with impatience in the front of
every danger, and met his death, <c e'en at
the cannon's mouth," where he unfortu-
nately fell a facrifice to miftaken principles *
injnatural rebellion, and the ambitious
views of a few designing men.-* — His
courage and deatfi would have done honor
to a better caufe.
The people in this city are making pre-
perations for the winter, and you would
think it impoflible they could confume the
amazing rafts of timber that are already
floated
THROUGH AMERICA. 9$
floated down the river ; but I am inform-
ed they are a very incoiifiderable part of
what are expefred.— It is not in the leaft
furprizing they were obliged to pull down
houfes for fuel laft winter, during the
fiege.
Europeans mtift form a terrible idea of
the iiitenfe cold of this country, from the
preparations the Canadians take to guard
againft it ; for the inhabitants are pafting
paper round their windows, and every
crevice where they imagine the leaft cold
will penetrate.
Inftead of fire-places they make ufe of
iron {loves, Which tiauft be extremely un-
healthy* a few days fince I went into a
room when there was a fire in one of
them, and had not been there above five
minutes, when I was feized with a moft
intolerable head-ach, which I can only
attribute to the fulphureous air that pro-
ceeds
96 INTERIOR TRAVELS
ceeds from thefe ftoves ; and, for my own
, part, imagine they are the occafion of the
Canadians having fuch fallow complexions ;
but cuftom, which in fome meafure over-
comes all prejudices, will no doubt recon-
cile me to them.
The fhips are all ' preparing to fail for
England, left the river fhould freeze u£. -
I have been this afternoon upon the
ramparts, to fee the Apollo frigate drop
down, in which General Burgoyne fails
for England ; who, I am perfuaded, has
the fincere and ardent wifhes of all ranks
in the army, for his fafety and happy ar-
rival. The General joins to the dignity
of office, and ftrift attention to military
difcipline, that confideration, humanity,
and mildnefs of manners, which muft ever
endear him to all who have the happinels
, to be under his command; for my. own
part, I (hall pray with Shakefpear, " that
the
THROUGH AMERICA.' <)J
s
the winds of all the corners may kifs the
fails, and make his veffel profperous."
I remained on the ramparts to take the
laft look of the Apollo, who, with a fteady
and favourable breeze, failed magnificently
down the river, and was foon out of fight.
You cannot guefs how it affe&ed me -, ftiall
I cpnfefs that more than once I wifhed
my felf on board her : it was fuch a fight
as muft awaken the mind to all its na-
tural attachments. But that I may not
think too much of country and friends, at
this time, I fhall haftily conclude myfelf,
Yours, &c.
Vol.L H LET-
g$ INTERIOR TRAVELS
LETTER X.
Montreal, November \6tb, 1776.
MY DEAR FRIEND,
A FTERa tedious march of near three
*• ^ weeks, which for a young foldier is
a pretty good initiation into the toils of
his profeflion, I am fafe arrived at this
place.
As we could not march many miles in
a day, through the feverity of the weather,
bad'roads, and the fhortnefs of the days,
I am enabled to give you fome little de-
fcription of the country between this city
and Quebec.
Both
Through America.
99
fioth fides of the river are very well
fettled, which affords a pleafing profpefh
The farms moftly lie clofe to the water-
fide, and at fome diftance from each other,
fo that each farmer has his pofleffions en-
tirely diftinft from thofe of his neigh-
bour's. But* had an edi£t, which was
paffed in the year 1745, when this pro-
vince was under the French Government,
been obferved, it would have been one con-
tinued ftreet from Quebec to this place, as
it forbade the Canadians from extending
their plantations more than an acre and a
half in front, and thirty or forty acres in
depth; by which means indolent heirs
would not have waited for the inheritance
of their fathers, as they would have been
under the neceflity of forming new plan-
tations, and fuch vaft fpaces of wood
would no longer have feparated them
from each other.
H2
But
IOO INTERIOR TRAVELS
But whether that indolence they then
pofledcd proceeded from nature, or the
rigor of their Government, they feem now
to have entirely loft it, and are become
mare induftrious ; as I perceived, in many
places, they were clearing away the woods
to form new plantations.
Moft of the farm houfes are built of
ftone, confifting of three or four rooms,
which are heated with a ftove, nearly
upon the fame conftru&ion as thofe I
defcribed to you. Some of them have
orchards annexed, though in general they
are without fuch an accommodation, but
all have exceeding good kitchen gar-
dens, ,
Every three leagues there is a church,
with a kind of little village, confifting of
the parfonage, the auberge, the fchool for
boys and girls, and a few houfes belong-
ing to tradefmen, thofe but few indeed,
and
THROUGH AMERICA. IOI
and fo thinly fcattered, that it fcarcely
gives you the idea of a village. Trade is
confidered by any defcendant of the nobleffe
a difgrace, yet there are few inhabitants
but what claim fome affinity to one Seig-
neur or another, who, though they think
it no derogation to plough, fow, and reap
upon their plantations, deem it ignomi-
nious in the extreme, to be a mechanic
or tradefman. Notwithftanding which, I
was much furprized to find, that the
principal inhabitant \n each village, who
generally belongs to ior&t x nobtyffe > was the
poft-mafter, and kept the only Auberge in
the place ; nay, did not think his nobility
pfFended, with providing horfes and enter-
taining travellers, which I remember to
have heard you . fay is the cafe in many
parts of Italy.
Between each chijrch, or village, there
are feveral croffe» put up on the road-fide,
parallel to the fhores of the river, and
H 3 which
102 INTERIOR TRAVELS
which are common throughout Canada*
They are made of wood, about fifteen
or twenty feet high, and proportionally
broad : In that fide towards the road is a
fquare hole, in which they place fome
wax images, either of our Saviour on the
crofs, or of the holy Virgin, with the
child in her arms, and before that, a piece
of glafs to prevent its being injured by
the weather. Thefe erodes are ornament-
ed with all the inftruments they think
the Jews employe*! in crucifying our
Saviour, fuch as the hammer, tongs, nails,
a flalk of vinegar, with many more things
than one wpuld fuppofe were really made
ufe of, or even invented •, and frequently
the figure of a cock is placed at the top,
which appeared to me rather fingular, as
it could have not the leaft affinity to the
crucifixion, and muft rather be fuppofed
an allufipn to the cock's crowing when
St. Peter denied our Saviour.
Thefe
THROUGH AMERICA, IOJ
Thefe croffes, however good the inten-
tion of eredting them may be, are con-
tinually the caufes of great delays in tra-*-
veiling, which to perfons not quite fo
fuperftitioufly dilpofed as the Canadians,
are exceedingly unpleafant in cold weather;
for whenever the drivers of the calafhes,
which are Qpen, and nearly fimilar to
your pne horfe chaifes, come to one of
them, they alight, either from their horfes
or carriage, fall on their knees, and re-
peat a long prayer, let the weather be
ever fo fevere.
The ufual mode of travelling is in thefe
calafhes : in the front of thofe which tra-
vel poft, a man fits to drive, and who, let
your bufinefs be of ever fo great import-
ance, will alight at thefe croffes, and pay
his accuftomed homage.
One day, on our march, being fent for-
ward to procure quarters, with our friend
H 4 Cap-
104 INTERIOR TRAVELS ,
Captain Grattan^ whofe pleafantry of man-
ners you are well acquainted with ; for ex-
pedition we went in a poft-calafh. The
weather was fo exceflively fevere, that with
the affiftance of fur coverings, we could
fcarcely keep ourfelves warm. Not abo\re
a mile had been beguiled, before we came
to one of thefe crofles, when the fellow
who drove us flopped ; upon afking him
why he did fo, he replied, Ce riejt que pour
faire une petite priere ; which petite prtire
he was nearly five minutes in repeating,
when he mounted his feat. We complained
of being almoft perifhed with cold, when
he replied, Allans ^ a lions, je vais me depecher^
and after taking two or three whiffs of his
pipe, whipped up his horfes, and made
amends for his flopping. We had not
gone a mile and a half further, before
another crofs made its unwelcome appear-
ance : here he muft alight, and faire une
autre petite priere y which, upon our not
confenting to, he begged we would let him
juft
THROUGH AMERICA. IOJ
juft flop, le terns de faire unjigne de croix,
which he was not long about. We then
jogged on again with great chearfulnefs, as
he drove pretty faft ; foon after we per-
ceived the village to which we were deftined
for quarters, when again he fuddenly ftopt,
and upon our faying ther6 was no crofs
there, he immediately cried out, Mais en
*voici une la, which, being at fome diftance
from the road, we had not obferved, re-
queuing us to let him halt but a moment :
II faut que je defcende ici ; c'ejt mon village * 9
we told him he fliould not, and that he
muft drive into the village as faft as he
could. Upon this he growled inwardly,
and complained openly, till he came op-
pofite to it, where he flopped again;
before he could defcend, our friend Grat-
tan laid hold of his long queue, of which
I told you they are exceedingly proud, and
declared, if he did not immediately drive
on, he would inftantly cut it off— —
This being aflerted with fome degree of
warmth,
106 INTERIOR TRAVELS
warmth, he thought fit to facrifice his reli-
gion to his vanity, fo juft crofling himfelf,
muttered a fhort prayer, and drove us as f aft
as he could to the end of o\ir journey,
facrant contre the Englifh officers ; and I do
not doubt, if one could form any idea from
his countenance, but he fent us both into
purgatory with fuch curfes,^ that all the
maffes which could be offered would not be
able to releafe us from it, for having treated
his religion and his queue with fq little
ceremony.
Leaving you to make your own reflect
tions on thefe Canadians and their religion,
I remain,
* Yours, &c.
LET-
__._ 1 1
THROUGH AMERICA. I07
UTTER XL
Montreal t Nov* 20th, 1776.
MY DEAR FRIEND,
I SHALL now proceed with my obser-
vations, and the remainder of the oc-
currences which happened in our march
from Quebec to this place.
About half way between Quebec and
Montreal, is a town called *trois Rivieres ;
it takes its name from three rivers, whofe
currents join here, and fall into the river
St, Laurence. . Previous to my giving you
any defcription of this place, permit me to
relate a trifling circumftance that occurred,
juft
Io8 INTERIOR TRAVELS
juft as we entered the town. About half
a mile before we came to it, fo fudden
and naufeous a fcent affailed our olfa&ory
nerves, as nearly to fufFocate us, which
lafted till we arrived at the outfkirts. —
Upon enquiry, we found it arofe from
an animal, which the Canadians call the
Enfant du Diable, or bete puante-, a title
which it derives from its ill fcent, occa-
fioned by difcharging his urine whenever
he is attacked, and which infedts the
air for a great diftance. Laying afide this
quality, it is in other refpe&s a beautiful
creature, being about the fize of a cat,
with a fine fhining fur, of a dark grey
color, ftreaks of white gliftening from the
head to the tail, which is bufhy, like that
of a fox, and turned up as a iquirrel's :
this had been purfued by fome dogs which
the foldiers had with them, acrbfs the road,
but when it came near us, its fterich was
almoft infupportable.
Thefe
THROUGH AMERICA. 109
Thefe Enfant du Diable differ from your
Enfant du Diable, the London beaux, who
have all their prettyifms perhaps, but are
eternally exhaling their peftiferous odours,
fearful, if they referved them till purfued*
they would have no opportunity to
" Taint the flying air, and ftink in date."
The country is pleafant, and there are
feveral good houfes about the town, but
they were greatly damaged by the Ameri-
cans, upon abandoning it, after their de-
feat this fummer, when their army was
routed, and feveral of their Generals, with
great numbers of their men, taken pri-
foners. This place is the winter canton-
ments of the German troops, who are
commanded by General Reidefel ; he com-
mands likewife the diftrifl between Que-
bec and Montreal.
This town, by reafon of the three rivers,
ufed to be much frequented by the feveral
nations
IIO INTERIOR TRAVELS
nations of Indians, and was built with a
view of encouraging trade with the northern
ones in particular. It had every profpeft of
being the fecond city in the province, but
the fur tradd was foon diverted from this
market, and carried entirely to Montreal,
it being fome leagues nearer to the In-
dians ; and though we have feveral trad-
ing places with them upon the lakes On-
tario and Superior, Montreal will always
fupport its confequence, as being the
neareij and moft convenient place for
(hipping the furs to England. Trots
Rivieres has now loft all its traffic and is
fupported chiefly by the travellers palling
between the two cities.
There are feveral churches, and two
convents, the nuns of which are reckoned
the moft ingenious of any in Canada, in
all lands of fancy ornaments, needle work,
and curious toys.
During
'THROUGH AMERICA. .Ill
During my ftay at Trois Rivieres, there
came down from the Illinois, feveral In-
dians of that nation, with an interpreter,
to acquaint us, that they would be down,
in the fpriug, and would take up the
hatchet in favor of " their good Brother who
refided beyond the great waters' 9 Among
the groupe I obferved one, who had hang-
ing round his neck the image of the holy
Virgin, with our Saviour in her arms,
which I thought very fingular, as he was
of a nation efteemed extremely ferocious
in their manner, and whom the French
Miffionaries could not convert ; but upon
my enquiring of the interpreter if he knew
the reafon, he gave me the following
account :
In fome Ikimirfh, when the Illinois were
at war with the Canadians, this image
had fallen into their hands,- amongft other
plunder. Sometime afterwards as a Mif-
fionary, of which the French had great
numbers
112 INTERIOR TRAVELS
numbers travelling through, the interior
parts of Canada, to cultivate friendfhip,
and eftablifh their religion among the In-
dians; by chance he met this perfon, and
obferving the image, was very much
aftoniftied; the manner in which he took
notice of it, excited the curiofity of the
poor favage, to know what it reprefeijted,
when the Miflionary, who no doubt was
pleafed to have fuch an opportunity of dif-
playing his religion, told him, that it re-
prefented the mother of his God, and that
the child fhe held in her arms reprefented
God himfelf, who had made himfelf man
for the falvation of the human fpecies, and
explaining to him the myftery of our in-
carnation, affuring him, that in all dan-
gers the Chriftians addreffed themfelves to
this holy mother, who feldom failed to
extricate them. The Indian liftened with
the utmoft attention to this difcourfe, and
went away.
Some-
tftROtJGH AMERICA. II3
Being out a hunting, foon after this>
juft as he had difchaf ged his piece at a
deer* onfe of the Outagami Indians, whofe
nation was at variance with the Illinois >
and who was lying in ariibufh, prefented
his piece at his head. In this fituation
he recollected what had been told him
about the mother of God* ahd invoked her
prote&ion. The Outagami endeavoured to
difcharge his piece, but miffed j he cocked
a feeond time, and the fame thing hap-
pened five times fucceflively. In the inte-
rim the Illinois had loaded his piece* and
prefented it to the Outagami^ Who chofe
rather to fufirender thah be fhot. From
that time the Illinois would never ftir from
his village withotit his Meguard, which
he imagines renders him invulnerable*
There am rertlain little doubt but this
circuiiiffiance was the means of his conver-
fion to Chriftianity, and the Romifh re-
ligion : for he has Certainly embraced
that perfualion, as I followed him to the
Vol. L J great
1 14 JJSJr.ZSLlQtL .TRAVELS-
great church, where,, upon hi& entrance,
after croffing hitm&lf With the holy water,/
he feH upon his knees, and feeroed to wor-
fliip with as much devotion as the moft
devout of the Canadians. But to return
%
to my defeription of this place*.
The road from Quebec hither, is- the
whole way within fight of the river, being
mofitly upon its banks, which renders it
extremely pleafant to travellers* efpedally
in the fummer, as there is & conftant
breeze- ... . ~ . .
« p
TSe rivier frohiL Quebec to Trots Rivteres
b very, wide, . and at\that . place: it .forms a
very larger lake, called.. &*. Pierre \ where
the eye cannot reach acfofe^ you can only
difcern a large body of .wafer; with fevefal
iflandSy which, with the final! veffels fail-
ing between them, : form a very romantic
profpeft* The tide comes .no farther
than this: Jake, terminating a. few leagues
:~. ;• . * * beyond
beyond frds Rivims, wheh you meet with
the ritftfc again, where it rans extremely
*apid, kt Mie rkte of feven Of eight tniles
anftbtfr. - At its firft appearance JGa cafi
hardly ^pofe it the fesfce river, ftfrwhete
the- tide has'efleft, it feldom.rofts more
than fotiff iftilesian hour ; it met eafes in
rapidity as you advance to Montreal, and
oppofite the city it runs almoft ten rflriles
an hour, which renders its navigation ex*
tremefy • difficult* aa nothing but. a very
• »
ifcrottg and favourable, wind, with all the
fidl^-fullfet, dot enable veflete to ftem
the current* What . with .. unfavorable
winds and light breezes, fhips have been as
long in getting .up from Trots Rivieres to
Montreal, as they were on their paflage
from England to Qgebec. -■.'•..
•'. . • ' ■?'"••-
The! rapidity of the- current rhakes tfbf-
fmgnot>orily difagreeabte, t>ut ve#y dan-
gerous, for urilels y*>u hav§ a flcitful pilot,
thexiqirnant will. carry you k league below
■v.
-1 2 where
Il6 INTERIOR TRAVELS
where you want to land. And yet it is
furprizing, how expert the Canadians are
with their wooden canoes ; but the Indians
far exeeed them in working theirs, as their
canoes are of & much lighter conflxu&ion.
Both being much ufed in this country,
I ihall endeavour to defcribe them, that
you may be able to form fome idea of what
they are*
Thofe which the Canadians vrfe, are
-called wooden ones, being hollowed out of
the red elm, fome of which dre fo large, as
to contain twenty perfons.
Thofe which the Indians ufe, are njadc
of the bark of the birch tree, and diftin-
guifhed by the name of birch canoes, the
different parts of which they few together
with the inner .rind of the bark of the. tree,
and daub them over with a pitch, or rather
a bituminous matter, refembling pitch, to
prevent their leaking, .. They form the ribs
from
THROUGH AMERICA.
*'7
ljrom the boughs of the hickory tree, and
are conftru6ted of different dimenfions,
fome being only large enough to xonlain
two perfons, and others thirty.
Thefe canoes are eafily managed by the
Indians with their paddles, and with the
current go at a prodigious rate, for one
iingle Jftroke with the paddle will force
them twice the length of the canoe againfl:
jit. It was with on? of thefe birch canoes
that General Carleton, with |ui Aid-de-
Camp, made their efcape through $he ene-
my's fleet, when he quitted Montreal, foi
the p^rpofe of putting Quebep in ^better
ilate pf defence,.
Unwilling to lofe the opportunity of
lending this by an officer who is going tp
Quebec, I am obliged to put a period to th^s
letter : and, no doubt, upon the perufal pf
it, you will eafily difcover the young trar
1 3 veller,
I jS interior te^yels
veikr^ who is diverted with, every thing
that pnefents itfelf to his view. But in
hopes that it may afford yau half an hour's
amufement; I remain,
Yeurs, &c.
LET-
THRopaa America* 119
UTTER £11,
flfontreaf, November z6tb 9 1776*
MY DEAR FRIEND^
B
EFORE Idftfcribeto you this city,
4et me give you fome account of the
ifland on which it ftands, and frton* whenc§
it derives its name t
This ifland, which raeafUres, ten leagues
in length and about four, in brradth, is
formed by the riyerSt. Laurence,- and in
the center of it are two large .mountains,
which are £he Strife j^jaitet 1vath.Qfc.the
north iide of St i,aure#fcc, and wfir£«ttid
by the jifft difcovercrs of this vpxbrihcc^
I 4 Monts
J
J 26
INTERKJ* TRAVELS:
Adtmts RcyauXy which gave name to. the
ifland, afterwards Mont Royal, and at laft,
by a variety of corruptions of the language;
Montreal.
« »
Of all the adjacent countries, there is
up place where the cliijiate is reckoned to
be fo mild, fo pleafant, and the foil fa
fruitful : with all thefe natural bleflings,
is it not furprizing to fee it thinly inha^
bited, and very ill fettled, for except two
or three miles round the city,. the;cpHHtry
Is moftly woods, interfperf^d vytfh -$. few
linall plantations. "
One thing not a little remarkable is,
that this ifland contains a fmaller. one
of about three miles in length, and two
and a half in breadth,, formed fey? two
inlets of St. I^aurence. This little ifland,
which is called the Ijk de Jefus, is almbft
cleared from wopds, and has a (mall church
and a few houfes on it, rendering Mon4
. I treal
THROUGH AMERICA. »I2I
treal extremely pleafant; being fo fituated,
that ^ou cannot go a great length in any
dire&ion, before you come to it; and
furely, after travelling through woods and
iwamps, it affords a moft pleafing relief.
The fummit of the mountains I have
defcribed to you are extremely difficult to
gain; but having once accomplifhed its
the delightful profpeft that prefents itfelf,
amply compenfates for the fatigue and
dangers -you encounter, being able to view
.the .whole ifland, and feveral leagues round
it. You can plainly difcern the moun-
tains that crofs Lake Cbamplain, called the
Green Mountains, which are near 60 miles
diftant. It appears generally a vaft forefl;
there being only three obje&s to diverftfy
jthe fcene : the view of the city of Mon-
treal, the river St. Laurence, and the
mountains of ChambUe, which are exceed-
ingly beautiful, and the more remark-
able, being in a plain level country, and
not
32S2 ZtfTXlLlXI* TRAVELS'
; not having a fingle JiiU for ftrveral league*
round them; -they arc considerably loftier
than the mountains on this ifland.
This city forms an oblong iquare, di*
vided by regular, well formed ftreets, and
the houfes in general, are well built ; there
are federal churches, but thofe, as, well a*
many of the houfes have felt the effe&s
of thigwar, •
. • ■»
_ . ■*
The city is furrounded by a wall and
dry ditch, and at one end there i? a citadel.
-ThejCefortificatioiis were raifed many yeats
part,, as a defence, againft the Indians, and
fine© the war, g&at Jmpjro^ementa havfc
been made, to tfeejn; but the. city is fo
fituated, jthat nqw^ks can : be .raifed to
enabled jt to ftand ft regular ftege,. having
many rifing grounds, -t$iat command, it in
more places than one,. .
' • 1 1 >\
< » f \ m
!
TWXPjreH AMERICA* 123:
f When wg.gained p0ffeflipi> of this pro-.
yince, Montreal was nearly as large as Que-
bec,- but fince that time it has fuffered much
by few; it is greatly to be wondered at, that
it has not, one time, or other, been totally
deftroyed : for in the winter, when the
inhabitants go to- bed, they make great
fires in their ftoves, and leave them burn-
ing all ijight, by which means they are*
frequently red hot before morning. Ima~
gine how yery dangerous they muft have
been, when their houfes were conftru&ed of
wood- few of thofe are now remaining,
except in the outfkirts of the city, the
greateft part of them being built, of
ftone,
* -
The inhabitants here, as well as thofe of
Quebec, having fo many times fuffered
by fire, conftruft their buildings in fuch
a manner, that they are not only perfe&ly
fecure againft that element, but even
againfl: houfe-hreakers, which being a little
r s . fingular,
124 INTERIOR TRAVJJLS %
lingular, you will have no- obje&ion. to
my defcribing them.
»
The houfe confifts of one lofty floor,
built with ftone, and the apartments are
divided by fuch thick walls, that fhould a
fire happen in one of them, it cannot com*,
municate to any other: the top of the
houfe being covered with a ftrong arch, if
the roof which is over it fhould catch fire,
it cannot damage the interior part of the
houfe. At Quebec, that city having been
fo often befieged, the inhabitants who are
now building at that place, make this ar^h
bomb-proof.
Each apartment has a double door, the
inner one of wood, and, the outer one of
iron, which is only fhut when the family
retire to reft ; the , windows .have double
fhutters of the fame materials, and have
not only taken this precaution with the
doors that lead out of the houfe, but
added
THROUGH AMERICA.* 125
added an iftm one,' which is fixed on the
infide. .
* •
Thefe doors and fhuttcrs are made of
plate iron, near half an inch thick, which,
perhaps, : you will imagine, muft give the
houfe:# *yery difegreeable appearance, but
it is far otherwife, for: being moftty painted
green, they afford a pleafing contraft to
the whitenefc of the hduft.
J *
This is the bufy time of the merchants
belonging to this place, who are nowufing
all* poflible expedition in fending home
their furs, before icfte • winter feta in. The
reafon affigned r pr. deferring it till fo late
in the feafon, L on account of the traders,
fome .of. who a aw but juft arrived from
the Upper <t Antries, the jnerchants gene-
rally ,waiti* t as ldngas'there is a poflibility
of their, return, ami fihmetimes fa Jong in
expe&ation 6f them,, as . tolofe their mar-
kets entirely. r ' ' < • ' ''
Thefe
Thsfe traders^ m - the . * omit :cf ? iheis
voyages, are continually encounftMng
hardfhips and difficulties > and their lives
are frequently in itfimSflent daftgfo *-•---
nothing ran counterbalance the gfe&fcpfrils
that^awaittheniy bltrthe c«rtail(lty^# afc-f
quiring an ample fortune in-tkt^iectoffeof
three or four voyages; * --' - ~>j -^'»
They jfet out in the fpring o&tiiflpyfeF;
in parties of about twenty or ' thirty per-
fonfii.witibr periiapsodightbriecii^^ birch
canoes j; they hasr-e j^'ft^ed <Jcaii^t?K«ke>
hut, fteer that where it is imagined thej? cafl
meet with a tribe of* Indians* v'fcsejflftg
moftly upon .* the » upper lakes, ;ibm«ames
carrying /their goods and canoed aerofe
rapids, which are parte oilhe^riv^figrtatly
quickened, by the udefcextts, a*ftb <s»$i$4aiid
to a rfoer, W : which; they ; w^'pf(J£eed
many leagues.: .:if.t&Jr;4o not aeeefttfith
any Indians* : it : oblige*., them:' id fettffft
again to the lake, and proceed jteflteatffc -
. - - ■ V .The
- Thfe goodfr they take with them io bar-*
ter for iliins* confift chiefly of brandy, to-»
baceo., a fort o£ duffii blanket, guns, pow-
der ami balls, kettles, hatchets and tqma*
hawks,, as likewife lodting^glafies^ ver*
million asnd various other paints"; f and
accorditig to any article that an Indian has
a defire or. art nfe for, hewiil give tenrtimesr
its value in feins. "They aixt moi eager
after powder*. • ball, paint,/ brandy and, to-
bacco. * ••",'"
• . . > . . . .
Thefa traders traverfe : vaft lakds and *
rivers with incredible induftry and j>a-
tknee^ tarrying their goods amoftg na-
tions in* ther r¬eft, parts of America*
They are generally abfent from their fa-,
feilies about three years,, .before their de-
parture make a will, and fettle all: thsir
affairs,, many of them, with their whole
party, havduig been put to death by the
Indians, either for the ftores they carry
with them, or to revenge the death of fome
of
t
4i8 INTERIOR TRAVELS
of their nation, who has been killed Tby
the burfting of a guri that has been fold
to them, which is frequently the Cafe, they
being by no means probf. The Indians
do not wait for thofe traders who fold the
gun, buttake their revenge upon the firft
they meet with. Here I muft obferve to
you, that the guns which are fold to the
Indians are fitted up in a very heat man-
ner, to attraft the notice of thefe poor
creatures, and frequently, after having'been
fired five or fix times, they burft, and the
unfortunate purchafer is either killed, or
lofes an hand or an arm. Thefe traders
are certainly the beft judges, but I cannot
help thinking it both cruel and impolitic*
It having been hinted, that a reward
would be given to him who ftiould difcover
a north-weft paflage, or whether the Con-
tinent joins to India, two fuppofitionsr
much credited by the Europeans in general >
feveral of the traders have endeavoured to
find
THROUGH AMERICA, 129
find which is the true one : as there is every
year fome frefh difcovery made, there re-
mains but little doubt that in fome future
time it will be effe6ted. I believe the far-
theft that any of them have yet reached
was a Mr* Henry, who is reported to have
travelled for ten days upon a large plain,
on which grew only a rank-grafs, nearly aa
high as a man's breaft, and on this plain he
frequently met with immenfe droves of
buffaloes, and obferved the tracks of feveral
others ; that on the eleventh day he came
to avaft river, which flopped his progrefs,
as he did not chufe to venture eroding in a
.canoe ; that the water was quite fait, and
run extremely rapid, from which circum-
ftance he concluded there muft be a north-
weft paffage*
Whether* it is lb or not, it is to be hoped
that when this unhappy conteft is ended,
Government may think it a matter worthy
their confideration, and fit out an expedi-
Vol. I. K tion
I30 INTERIOR TRAVELS
tion for afcertaining it, as the difcoveiy
would not only be of great importance to
England* but to all the world. - As ^e
have already made fuch great and wonder-
ful difcoveries in the South Seas, furely .
this will be deemed of fufficient import-
ance to juftify the expehce of fitting out
proper perfons from England to inveftigate
the fa£t.
If after fo many, fruitlefs attempts, fbme
one ihould appear, whofe firm mind will
rife fuperior to every fenfe of danger, en-
countering variety of hardfhips, and whofe
patience is not exhaufted by their duration >
if fuch a one, animated with a hope of
glory, which alone teaches men to disre-
gard life, rendering them equal to the
greateft undertakings ; who, being well
informed, fo as to underftand what he fees,
and of veracity enough to relate only what
he has feen — if fuch a man fliould appear,
and no doubt there are many, who poffefs
thefe
^ *
THROUGH AMERICA. 131
uiefe excellent and extraordinary qualifica-
tionSi his refearches will perhaps be crown-
ed with better fuccefs. But, if after fuch
an undertaking, this celebrated paffage
fhould ftill remain concealed, it muft be
concluded, either that it doth not exift, or
is not given to man to difcover.
I add nothing more to this letter, fearful
of lofmg its conveyance, therefore remain
*
Yours, &c.
K2 LET-
/
I32 INTERIOR TRAVELS
LETTER XIII.
Montreal, No<v. 50th, 1776.
MY DEAR FRIEND,
A FEW days ago, I made a vifit to our
■* ^ friend Shlagell of the 21ft regiment,
at St. John's, where he is ftationed for the
winter. I cannot but fay I was much
pleafed with the place, it having all the
appearance, of a dock-yard, and of being
equally as bufy. The fleet that was upon
the Lake is repairing, as likewife feveraL of
the veffels that we took from the Ameri-
cans ; they are laid up in docks, to preferve
them from the inclemencies of the winter,
and by the enfuing fpring, what with the
fliips
THROUGH AMERICA. I33
fhips we had before, and thofe we have
fince taken from the Americans, we fhall
have a fleet far fuperior to any they can
poffibly bring on the Lakes. '
Therd' are two fchooners here, the Carle-
ten and Maria % which were built in Eng-
land upon a conftru&ion to take into pieces,
in order to be tranfported acrofs a carry-
ing-place of about two miles. After their
felling from England to the mouth of the
rapids, which prevented their proceeding
up to St. John's, rather than lofe the time
of taking them to pieces, and re-conftru£t-
ing them, Lieutenant Schank, of the navy,
an ingenious officer, informed General
Carleton, that they might be conveyed
upon a cradle over land to St. John's, entire,
provided there was a good road made for
them. The General acquiefced in this
gentleman's propofal, and the whole army
were employed in making a road. One of
the veffels was near half a mile on it, by
K 3 means
134 INTERIOR TRAVELS
means of cables fixed to windlaffes every
twenty yards •, but the General perceiving
this mpde of conveyance would take up
more time than the other, gave orders to
have the fchooners taken to pieces and re-
built, which was accpmplifhed in as {hort
a fpace of time as they had been creeping
• » <
that finall cliftance upon land.
Our naval force being for inferior tq
what the Americans had this fummer upon
the Lakes, it was deemed neceflary to en-
creafe it. The fhip-wrights were inftantly
employed to build a frigate, and the army
in cutting the timber for it, which is now
as complete a veffel as any in the King's
fervic$. I am afraid you will think I ufurp
the privilege of a, traveller, when I tell yotj
that this frigate was conftru&ed in fo fhort
a time, that in eight and twenty days after
her keel was laid fhe was in a&ion j and
what was ftill more wonderful, there were
only fixteen fhip-wrights to build her, one
of
[
THROUGH AMERICA. I35
of whom was, on the third day, fo badly
wounded with an adze, as to be of little J
fervice.
You may eafily imagine how great muft
have been the aftonifhment of the Ameri-
cans when fhe came upon the Lakes,
knowing we had no fuch fhip when they
abandoned St. John's. Notwithftanding
this, they fought their fleet bravely, and
cur riew-built veflfel, by the falling of the
wind, bore but a partial part of the en-
gagement, the ftrefs laying upoji the Carle-
ton and Maria fchooners, which were both
much fhattered. On board the latter was
General Carleton, who had a very narrow
efcape, a cannon fhot pafling clofe by him
as he was giving directions to an officer,
and which the General with that coolnefs
» • .
and intrepidity that fo much diftinguifties v
his chara&er, took no notice of, but turn-
ing round, gave his orders with as much
K 4 com-
I36 INTERIOR TRAVELS
compofure as if he had been in the kioft
perfeft ftate of fecurity.
This place, which is called the key to
Canada, when the works are compleated,
will be of great ftrength ; there are temr-
porary barracks at prefent, both for fok
diers and artificers. . The old barracks, as
well as the fort the Americans deftroyed
when they abandoned the place, were forr
merly quite furrounded with woods, but
are now clear for fome diftance round.
In order that you may form a jxift idea
of this important place, I have enclofed
you a drawing of it, reprefenting the two
redoubts, with the rope-walk, the fhip on
the flocks, and the other veffels at anchor
s
near the fort, and which I have taken from
the block-houfe eredted on the oppofite fide
of the river Sorell.
From
1 THRO ftftft||fttff ^,
THROUGH AMERICA. 1^7
From this place I went to the IJle au
Noix, which is the advanced poft of the
army, on which the 20th regiment is ftation-
ed* This ifland is about a mile and a half
in length, and three quarters of a mile in
breadth ; it was entirely covered with wood,
but at prefent greatly cleared, and before
the winter is over, we imagine it will be
entirely fo. Although fo late in the year,
and in this fevere climate, the regiment
ftationed there is encamped, and likely to
continue fo till after Chriftmas, as it will
be that time before the block-houfes in-
tended for them are finifhed.
Block-houfes not being generally known
in England, (hall be my apology for giving
you a defcription of them. They are con-
ftru&ed of timbers, placed one on the
other, of a fufficient thicknefs to refift a
mufquet fhot, and large enough to contain
from 100 to 120 men; there are two
apartments in them, one above the other,
in
J$S INTERIOR TRAVELS'.
the upper of which is a clivifion f or th e
officers. In both the lower and upper
apartments are two pieces of cajmon and
four port-holes, for the purpofe of point-
ing thefe camion on any fide of the block-
houfe on which it may be attacked; and
in cafe an enemy fhould in the night en-
deavour to fet fire to the hoyfe, there are
loop-hole^, through which the troops on
the infide can level their pieces and fire
upon the aflailants, They are reckoned tQ
be a very ftrong defence, as it has been
known that a fmali party of meji, in one
of thefe block-houfes, have repulfed treble
their own number. But that you may
more fully comprehend the conftru&ion* of
thefe unufual fortifications, I have inclofed
a drawing and fe&ion of one of them for
your infpe£tion.
The foldiers, not only at the IJle a%
Noixy but likewife at St. John's, have been
very fubjea to the fcurvy, not having any
s
I
i
I
s
3
*<
a*
-t-js-
t
Tn-^W""™^ ■■ ■ ■ ■
/
THROUGH AMERICA, 139
other than fait provifions, but by drinking
plentifully of fpruce beer, they are now all
in perfedt health, which clearly proves that
liquor to be a powerful antifcorbutic. It
is fq much known in England, as to need
no defcription ; the only difference between
the fpruce there and here is, that here it is
made with the branches of the tree itfelf,
and there with the effence.
As the feverity of the weather fhuts up
all intercourfe by letters, this is the laft
you may expeft to receive from me till the
froft breaks up. But though I cannot
write to you, be affured I fhall continually
think of you, and remain, with the greateft
efteem and fincerity,
r
Yours, &c.
LET-
140 INTERIOR TRAVELS
LETTER XIV.
Montreal, January iStb, 1 777
MY DEAR FRIEND,
I DID not expeft to have written fb
foon, but an opportunity of a flag of
truce, which is going by the way of Ticon-
deroga to New- York, unexpe&edly occur-
ring, I am happy to embrace it, efpecially
when it is impoflible for me to employ my
leifure hours more fatisfa£tory to myfelf,
than in endeavouring to divert you . I fhall
therefore proceed to give you fome ac-
count of the winter amufements of this
place, and among the principal ones is that
of carioling upon the ice, the inhabitants
making
THROUGH AMERICA, I4I
making large parties every day for that
purpofe; they generally go to Point aux
'Trembles, about three leagues from this city,
at which place refides a Dutch woman,
who makes moft excellent faufages, and at
whofe houfe it is cuftomary to refrefh with
thefe and bottled porter. As the north
wind generally blows very fharp, you ac-
quire a pretty good appetite, and, for my
own part, I enjoyed this petite repas in pre-
ference ta my dinner, very few regimen-
tal mefles being conduced with that pro-
priety and decorum which fhould charac-
terize the profeffion, as there are generally
among them a fet of ungovernable young
men. But to return to my defcription of
carioling.
You will no doubt think it too much
to go nine miles and back again for a jaunt
before dinner 5 but this mode of travelling
is fo very expeditious, that moft of the
inhabitants defer their journey to Quebec
till
142 INTERIOR TRAVELS
till this feafon of the year, as they can per-
form it with lefs difficulty, and much
greater expedition*
The carioles are fafhioned after different
»
devices, to imitate birds and beads, but in
general they are of one conftruftion, with
only this difference, that the common peo-
ple have theirs clofe upon the ice or fnow,
while thofe of their fuperiors are raifed
upon what are called runners, which elevate
them about two feet. They paint them of
various fantaftical colors ; many of them,
as a contrail to this feafon-of the year, are
colored in imitation of thunder aiid light*
ning. It is certainly a very eafy and expe-
ditious method of travelling, for the horfes
of the country will go with eafe fifteen
miles an hour upon the ice. The inha-
bitants think nothing of a journey of forty
or fifty miles to fee a friend, and returning
the fame day.
Not-
THROUGH AMERICA., 143
Notwithstanding the river runs fo rapid
&s I have before defcribed, and is now en-
tirely frozen over, yet there are certain
warm fprings that never will congeal • to
caution travellers, every parifh, as foon as
the river is frozen over, is obliged to fix
large pine trees in the ice, diftant from
each other about ten feet, which receiving
moifture from the ice, and being an ever-
green, continue fo the whole winter, fo
that when travelling, it appears as if you
Were going between an avenue of firs-
On each fide of the river it is quite
fmooth, but in the center, where the cur-
rent tuns fo rapid, the ic£ is thrown up ill
prodigious hills, through which the inhab-
itants are obliged to cut a paflage to crofs
the river ; the fides are frozen fo as to bear
carriages, long before the center, and when
that freezes, no thunder can equal the
noife, the reafon of which you will eafily
imagine, for where thefe rapids are, the
ice
144 INTERIOR TRAVELS
ice is thrown up in a continual fucceflion
of hills; between thefe hills, you are
furrounded with ice feveral yards high,
and there it is inconceivably cold ; when
upon the top of one of thefe hills, you
cannot help flopping to view the many
curious forms the ice is thrown into, fome
of it being in that of a pyramid, other
pieces that of a cone, others again in large
flabs, and fome of it refembling the figures
of men, birds and beafts; in fhort, no
defcription can equal fo romantic a pro-
fpeft.
The Canadians have a very lingular cuf-
tom among them, at the commencement
of the year, the men go round the city and
falute the ladies, who fit up, in ftate. for
three days for that purpofe, and as the in-
habitants are acquainted with each other,
the lady is generally faluted by the greateft
part of the men ; the falutation is after the
French fafhion, upon the cheek, when
having
J
THROUGH. AMERICA, I45
having faluted one, the lady pirefents the.
other.
The European ladies who are fettled
here, rather than . appear fmgular, adopt
this cuftom, only varying the falutation
after the Englifh fafhion ; not but what
I think the French mode preferable on this
occafion, where the lady is under the ne-
ceffity of receiving the falute of every one.
As I know you will make this obfervation,
I dare fay he went his rounds , let me candidly
acknowledge I did, and with another officer.
We had a very great mortification in going
to the houfe of ah' Erighfti merchant, who
has a beautiful pife:' upon our entering,
we difputed wlio fhould falute her firft ;
you may fuppofe how eager we both were
in our addreffes upon entering the room,
and would hive enjoyed our chagrin, when
we faw General Phillips there* whofe de-
parture muft be waited for, before we
could falute the lady $ perhaps you will
Vol. I. L fay
J46 INTERIOR TRAVELS
fay the pleafure was heightened by con-
templating her charms — Prajlat expe&are.
This being the firft Catholic country I
ever was in, you muft fuppofe me particu-
larly attentive to their religious ceremonies
at Chriftmas, I had ever conceived, that
moil authors had greatly exaggerated their
accounts upon that .head, and had I not
met with convincing proofs, my candor
could not fuppofe that mankind were fo
weak in their underftandings. That the
lower clafs of people fhould be led away is
not to be wondered at, .but how men of
learning, found fenfe and good understand-
ing fhould, is to me aftonifhing. It is
allowable for every man to worftiip any
thing fymbolically, but their doing it
in reality never can be admitted. Thefe
fuperftitious people implicitly believe, the
waxen images that are fhewn them by their
priefts, to be -abfolutely the perfons they
are intended to reprefent.
On
o
THROUGH AMERICA. I47
On Chriftmas Eve, I went to the great
church, where there was a prodigious con-
courfe of people, and got as near as I could
to the altar, to obferve the ceremonies.
About nine o'clock the fervice began with
prayers and anthems, which lafted till ten,
when the cradle was brought in, upon
which there was a great fhout ; after this
they continued finging and praying till the
clock ftruck twelve, when the high prieft
brought in a wax figure of a child, fuperbly
dreffed, the mufic ftruck up, and there was
a fecond great fhouting. The child being
depofited in the cradle, it was rocked till
about one o'clock, when the ceremony
finiihed. »
In fome of the convents they are ex-
ceedingly curious in their wax images:
there was a reprefentation of the Meffiah,
which was daily varied in its fize, from the
time of its fuppofed birth, till the time
the Monks had fixed as neccflary for its
L 2 being
1
I48 INTERIOR TRAVELS
being fufficiently grown to reprefent our
Saviour, at the age he was when he preach-
ed in the Temple, When I firft went to
fee this wax-work, on the Chriftmas-day,
there was a figure of Jofeph, drefied in a
fcarlet cloak, with a large tie wig, another
to refemble the Virgin Mary with a little
child, laying in a manger, and ovej it was
the figure an ox and an afs's head, which
are at the fame time emblematical of their
own ftubbornefs and ftupidity. In a few
days this reprefentation was changed, and
there was another of the Wife Men making
.their offerings to the Sahator Mundi ; fo
continuing every remarkable event of his
life, till the time of preaching in the
Temple ; and whenever I went, there was
•always a vaft concourfe of people upon
•their knees praying to thefe figures. This
mode of religion appears to me to be ex-
tremely well calculated to infpire devotion
iti the lower clafs of people, yet it is great
pity fome better method of paying adora-
1 • - ' •■ - tion
THROUOH AMERICA. I49
tion to the Divine Being cannot be adopt-
ed to infpire a true fenfe of his exiftence,
than means fo abfurd. . Difference of
opinion concerning religion ever will pre-
vail, but left you think I am growing too
fermonic, I fhall conclude this fubjedt with
an obfervation of a Monjieur Blondeaux, at
whofe houfe I am quartered, and who is a
very fenfible and intelligent man.
Converfirig with him, one day, on their
worfhipping thefe waxen images, andothes
ridiculous ceremonies in their religion,
Monjieur ■, faid he, Mon avis eji que chacun
doit fuivre la religion pour laquelle il fe font
plus d 'inclination ; etjefuis ajfure qiiaujour
dujugement, on ne nous demandra pas quelle
religion nous avons profeJfte> mais que nous
ferons tous- recompenfis on punis felon nos ac-
tions.
As I informed you this goes by a flag of
truce, it would be unpardonable to omit
L 3 men-
I50 INTERIOR TRAVELS
mentioning the humanity of General Carle-
ton, who has cloathed all thofe who were
taken prifoners, they being almoft in a
ftate of nakednefs ; rn^ny of them he fuf-
fered to return to their homes upon their
paroles of not bearing arms agaift during
the war. Thofe who are here to be ex-
changed are cloathed, and fare the fame as
our own foldiers.
Fate can only determine whether I ihall
experience the misfortune of being taken
prifoner, but, if I fhould, it is my hope
that I may not meet with worfe treatment
than thefe people have received.
By the mode this will be conveyed, I am
not certain that it may reach you ; but if it
fhould, it brings you my beft wifhes for
your health and happinefs, and an affurance
that I am, with great fincerity,
Yours, &c.
LET-
THROUGH AMERICA. 151
LETTER XV.
Montreal, January 2%th 9 1777.
MY DEAR FRIEND,
TH E winter is now fet in with great
feverity, and you would naturally
conclude that this country is the moft un-
comfortable in the world, and its inhabi-
tants the moft unhappy, but far from it :
the city and the country people around,
feem to be perfe&ly in their element;
there is nothing but carioling, feafting,
and other amufements. The Canadians
perfe&ly refemble the French with refpeft
to dancing, having meetings at each other's
houfes for that purpofe almoft every night.
L 4 Though
I52 INTERIOR TRAVELS
Though the weather is fo fevere, the in-
habitants here never ftay in doors in. the
day, unlefs it fnows, which feldom hap-
pens, for the firft fall is generally the only
pne they have, and that lafts for two or
three days, after which the weather is
fettled, and has been extremely pleafant
for this month paftj excepting one day,
there has been quite an Italian Iky, not a
cloud to be feen.
The air of Canada is reckoned the moft
falubrious and healthy of any in the world ;
yet notwithftanding this, the Canadians
are very confiimptive, and it is incredible
what numbers of them die before they
arrive at maturity; if they furvive that
period, they moftly liye to a good old age.
A very eminent phyfician, Dr. Kennedy,
who is with our army, attributes this en-*
tirely to the ftoves they make ufe of in th?
winter, and that w$s any other mod? of
conveying
THROUGH AMERICA. I53
conveying warmth fubftituted, they would
in all probability be a long lived people.
For, fays he, the inhabitants moftly keep
their ftoves heated, and in coming out of
the frefh air to enter a room where there
is one, you are almoft fufFocated. How
pernicious this muft be to the conftitution,
efpecially of the young children, who are
continually going in and out of the heated
rooms into the fnow and upon the ice ; and
when the lungs and pores are expanded by
the heat of thefe ftoves, run without any
addition of cloathing into the cold, where
the blood receives fo fudden a change, that
it generally leaves fome fatal diforder upon
the lungs.
It is very difficult to eradicate long efteu
blifhed prejudices and cuftoms, but if the
Canadians were to adopt the mode of other
northern climates, where the cold is nearly
as intenfe as it is here, I think they would
experience the benefits arifing from it.
In
154 INTERIOR TRAVELS
In Ruffia, Germany, and in all- the
northern parts upon the Continent in
Europe, the inhabitants have ftoves fimilar
to the Canadians, but fo conftru&ed, that
when the room is of a fufficient warmth,
the front opens with two folding doors,
where there is a good fire in a grate, and
the fulphureous air exhales up the funnel,
by which means they enjoy an agreeable
warmth; if they perceive it getting cold,
they fhut the doors for a little while, till
the room is fufficiently heated. The Ca-
nadian ftoves are fo conftru&ed, that the
whole time you aire in a room, you are
almoft ftifled with the fulphureous vapor,
which muft be extremely pernicious, and
in all probability occafions the fallow com-
plexion of the Canadians ; there cannot be
a ftronger proof that it is fo, than its hav-
ing the fame effeft on Europeans who have
been fettled here any length of time.
They
THROUGH AMERICA. 155
They put me in mind of Erafmus's
Diverjbria Germanic a B. In hypocaujio
exuis ocreas; induis calceos; mutas, Ji voles,
indufum, vejles pluvia madidas fufpendis juxta •
hypocaujium ; ipfe te admoves y ut Jicceris.
Itaque frequenter in idem hypocaujium con-
veniunt odtaginta aut nonaginta, pedites,
equiteSy negotiators, nauta, aurigce^ agricolce,
pueriy famina ,fam\ agroti. — Gu. Ijlucverd
canobium ejl. — Be. Alius ibi peSlit caput,
alius abfiergit fudorem, alius repurgat perones
aut ocreas, alius eruftat alium. $uid multis?
Ibi linguarum ac perfonarum non minor ejl
confujioy quam olim in turri Babel. Prodit
famulus fenex barbd cand, tonfo capite, vul/u
torvo, for dido vejtitu. — Gu: stales opportebat
cardinalibus Romanis ejfe ct poculis. — Be. Is
circumaSiis oculis tacitus dimmer at, quot jint
in hypocaujio : quo plures adejfe videt, hoc <ue-
hementius accenditur hypocaujium etiamfi ali-
oquefol afiujit molejlus. Hcec apud illos prce-
cipua pars ejl bonce traSiionis,f fudore diffiuant
omnes. Si quis non ajfuetus vapori, aperiat
nmam
I56 INTERIOR TRAVELS
rbnamfenejira, ne prcefocetur^ prbtinus audit,
Claude. Si refpondeas, Non fero: audis,
Quaere igitur aliud diverforium. — Gu. Jt-
que mihi nihil videtur periciiloJius> quam tarn
multos haurire eundem vapor em^ maxime refo-
luto corpore^ atque hie capere cibum^ et boras
complures commorari. T?um enim omitto ruSius
alii at os i et ventris flatum^ halitus putres :
multi funt quijnorbis ocultis labor ant, nee ullus
morbus nonbabetfuum contagium. — Be. Sunt
viri fortes y ijla rident ac negligurit: — Gu. Sed
»
interim multqrum periculo fortes funt. — You
will pardon me fuch a long quotation, but
xtis fo appofite, that I could not refill it.
Although the weather is intenfely cold,
the mode of drefs in ufe here, and thefe
ftoves, prevent your ever feeling any;
there are none of thofe raw damp days, fo
much the fubjeft of complaint in England,
and from the bad effe&s of which no
cloathing will defend you.
The
through America. 157
The drefs of the natives is extremely
well calculated for the climate ; it confifts
(in addition to the common habiliments
worn in England) of a blanket coat, a pair
of what are called leggings, with a kind
of flap on the outfide of the leg, to pre-
vent the fnow from clogging round them ;
fur gloves, and a fur cap, which is made
to pull over the ears, but this is. feldom
done, except when the ftrong north-weft
winds blow. At that time it is very dan-
gerous to go out, as you run a great
rifque of being froft-bit, which happens in
an inftant, fometimes in turning the cor-
ner of a ftreet, without being fenfible of it
at the time, £s it occafions no fort of pain ;
if, the part affe&ed is not immediately
rubbed- with fnow, and every precaution
taken, it is fure to mortify, and fhould any
one, thus circumftanced, be imprudent
enough to go near the fire, mortification is
inevitable.
To
I58 JNfERIQR TRAVELS
To convince you how yery inftantaneous
it muft be, I fhall relate a ludicrous ch>
cumftance, which however had nearly bctn
produftive of a duel.
An officer in the garrifon having a nofe
remarkably large, was going to dinner at
the mefs, when not four doors from his
lodgings, turning round a corner, he met
another officer, who immediately cried out,
" God blefs me, your, nofe is froft-bit."
From the fmall diftancd he had gone, he
thought it impoffible, and that his friend
was bantering him ; high words arofe, aad
they parted with an appointment to meet
the next morning, to refent the affront.
He made hafte to his dinner, and upon his
entering the room, the officers prevented
his coming to the fire, telling him at the
fame time his nofe was froft-bit. He then
began to think it no joke, and was happy
to apply the ufual remedy : it was no bad
punifhment for his rafhnefs and incredu-
lity,
THROUGH AMERICA. I59
Iity> that during the time the officers were
at dinner, he was obliged to be in the cold,
rubbing his nofe with fnow till the blood
circulated, and though very fharp Jet,
obliged to nofe a meal he would have been
iiappy to partake of.
The prefent fcafon of the year not per-
mitting any military manoeuvres, and na-p
turally inclining us more to reflections of
a ferious nature, than the gay appearance
of the fpring or fummer, I ftiajl again
-trefpafs x>n your patience with fome few
©bfervations on the effefts of the intcnfe
cold weather experienced in this country ;
and as you have always appeared partial to
my adding the remarks of others, where I
thought them more juft and beautiful than
my o\yn, I fhall allude to fome that ftruck
me on the following phcenomena.
I have already mentioned to you that the
froft is fet in, and among the many incon-
• veniencies
l6o INTERIOR TRAVELS
veniencies which the inhabitants of this
northern region fuffer from it, none is
more to be lamented than that of the
ground being fi> much frozen, as to make
it impoffible to dig a grave for the inter-
ment of thofe who die at this time ; their
friends are obliged to keep them above
ground till a thaw comes, when they re-
turn the body to the dull from whence it
came.
You wili eafily conceive, my dear friend,
that the daily fight of fo mournful, an ob-
ject as the bier of a departed hufband, muft
inevitably lengthen out the forrow of
<c The new made Widow-*-*
Whilft bufy meddling Memory,
In barbarous fucceflion, mufters up
The paft endearments of their fofter -hours, '
Tenacious of its theme ? K X \- ...
«
To -relatives,* who often think it a* reli-
gious duty to mourn^ the ^ departed, iuch
fcenes,
THROUGH AMERICA, l6\
fcenes, by a protra&ed farrow, often dr^w
fife to its utmoft verge, and at the fimera}
they are fcarce more alive thapti the corgf^
they bury. To thofe who, without feeling
a lofs, are yet led to contemplate, it often
fuggefts the idea of Arbuihnot,
* • What am. I ? how produc'd ? and for what end t
Whence drew I being i to what period, tend ?
I think you would hardly forgive roe,
were I not to relate to you the very ftrange
manner in which thefe thoughts afFe&the
German foldiers of our army ♦ I know not
whether to call it fympathy, or by any
other name, but it ftrongly evinces the
connexion exiHing between the body anx|
mind.
* ,
The Germans, to the number of twenty
or thirty at a time, will in their converfa^
tions relate to each other, that they are fure
they (hall not live to fee home again, and are
Vol. I. M certain
l62 INTERIOR TRAVELS
certain that they fliall very foon die^: would
you believe it, after this they mope and
pine about, haunted with the idea, that
" Nor wives, nor children, (hall they more behold,
Nor friends, nor facredhome."
Nor can any medicine or advice ~ you can
give them divert this fettled fuperftition,
which they as furely die martyrs to, as
ever it infe&s them. Thus it is that men,
who have faced the dangers of battle and
of fhip wreck without fear (for they are
certainly as brave as any foldiers in the
world), are taken off, a fcore at a time, by
a mere phantom of their own brain. This
is a circumftance well known to every one
in the army.
In cafe of any deceafe in the family of a
Canadian, the corpfe is depofited in fome
private chamber, but in our general hofc
pital there is a long^room appropriated, for
that
— ». t
/
THROUGH AMERICA. 163
that purpofe. The fuperintendant of f his
room, an apothecary, being a man poflefled
of whimfical ideas, and a turn for the
ludicrous, had placed the dead bodies of
theft poor Germans in various poftures,
fome kneeling with books in their hands,*
others fitting down with pipes in their
mouths, many ftanding ereft againft the
wall, and as they have their cloaths on,
you fcarcely at firft imagine they are dead j
but upon a nearer approach, what with
their long muftaches, which are put in
form, and their ghaftly countenance, you
cannot picture to yourfelf any thing fo
horrible, yet at the feme time fo truly
laughable and ridiculous.
After what I have related, you will mofl
probably agree with me, that the conftitu-
tion of England has not un wifely declared
apothecaries and furgeons incapable of
compofing a jury upon trials for capital
M 2 offences
164 INTERIOR TRAVELS
offences, though it excludes fome few of
them who do honor to the profeffion, by
their gentlenefs and humanity: yet I am
fearful the major part of them would not
join in the warmth that is fo frequently
experienced, in the generous and noble
burfts of joy that overwhelms the order of
our courts of juftice, when unprote&ed
innocence efcapes the arbitrary and re*
vengeful profecutKMr of malice and power.
I have heard furgeons, as an excufe for
the ftrange want of feeling either brought
on by the daily vifitation of fickhefs and
pain, or which they poffefs from the
apathy of their nature, fay, that were
they to feel much on the occafion, it would .
' difable them from doing their duty. Strange
argument this! and as contradi&ory to
found fenfe as true philofophy, which might
teach them gentlenefs in the manner, and
firmnefs in the execution. For my own
part, fuch is the fituation of my mind,
when I am indifpofed, that I have fancied
the
THROUGH AMERICA. 165
the affe&ionate " how do ye" of the fur-
geon and apothecary, has done me as much
good as their drugs, or the performance
of an operation in phlebotomy. Can any
one conceive it proper, when a youth of
fixteen has broke a leg, that the furgeon,
while in doubt on the firft vifit, fhould, in
the prefence of his patient, refiufe to fearch
whether a fra&ure had a&ually happened,
becaufe he would make fuch a roaring and a
noife that he jhould not get it out of bis bead
for a fortnight, and though the lad with
fpirit aflured him, that thofe who were
prefent had not feen him fhed a tear ; the
furgeon, however, did not make the expe-
riment, though I believe for a much better
reafon than he gave, which was that the
leg was much fwelled. Thus did a furgeon,
'while I was in England, treat our coufin
B — , lowering his fpirits, leaving him three
or four days in fufpence, whether his leg
was broken or not, merely to ihew how
M 3 coolly
1 66 INTERIOR TRAVELS
«
coolly he could talk on. a fubjeft like that
before him. Had he, inftead of this un-
feeling excufe, but tenderly affured his
patient, that it would put him to more
pain to make the fearch • then, than at a
future time/ I fhould have fuppofed it
would have made his mind more eafy, and
been .the means of preventing the accefs of
a fever, always to be feared on thefe ocga-
fions.
In the hofpitals, perhaps the multipli-
city of cafes may plead an excufe for little
ceremony, but in private pra&ice,, where
they are well paid, thus wantonly to wound
the feelings of thofe who are but in ill
fpirits, cannot add either to their credit or
praftice.
You will long ere this wonder how I
have (frayed from the wild fcenes that fur-
round me, to lafh the hardened profeffors
of
THROUGH AMERICA. 167
of the Efculapian art, but you too well
know that fuch things do exift, not to par-
don my deviation, I fliall therefore con-
clude with my fincere wifhes that you may
never have the misfortune to fall into their
hands, and remain
Yours, &c.
\
i w ^. ,.
• /
M4 -~ LET-
T$5 iN'TtRjOR t RAVELS
% ! fe T *"lfe * £Vt
■ a * »
Montreal, February vjth % 1777,
MY DEAR FRIEND,
A 8 my laft was liable to the infpe&ion
^ ^ of the enemy, I been have reftrained
from informing you of many things that it
would otherwife have communicated. I
embrace, therefore, the opportunity of an
officer going to Quebec, in order that you
may receive this by the firft fhip that fails
for England*
Since my laft I have been again to St,
John's, where, notwithftanding the feveri-
ty of the weather, the artificers and fhip-
wrights
THROUGH AMERICA. $6$
wrights ire all bufily employed. We have
raifed upon the Lakes, in addition to the
force of laft fummer, a curious veffel, cal-
led ^RtideaiiXy which" formerly belonged to
the French, and was fank by the Ameri-
cans' near this place : it is a caftle of itfelf,
6f a- iiionftrous conftru&ure, and will
hold a great number of men ; fhe is in-
tended to convey the heavy artillery acrofs
the^L&kes* From the account, indeed, that
*re have deceived from fome deferters, the
Americans do not irttend to difpute them,
but wait our arrival at Ticonderoga.
The garrifon at St. John's has been
htpt very alert moft of the winter, as feve-
ral parties of the enemy have come acrofs
tile Lake upon fleighs, and having hovered
kbout the woods, twice attacked the block-
hoxife On the. oppofite fhore, their views,
tto doiibt, were of deftroying our fleet;
but to render the fhips more fecure, the
ice has been cut away for feveral yards
round
IJO INTERIOR TRAVELS
round tfiem* tQrrE?eyeni;th^ir : >9iag fet
fir? to.. : . .. •: - : • . :-> 'v, • . ;_.'.:?
t .J *j f *^i. . * ... -Jiiji. J« '
,. .- As J :> returned jfamSt.' John's^apg the
river, .-my attention yijag -fuddenly caught
by an obieft well calculated to- have, exerr
eifed the feelings,, and employed tfr£ gen^f
3. orerne. • . ;,v ., ■ *.-» "r ?• f *, /
« . _ . .. .•- * * * * . •. .»} j*
< .•
When the river freezes oven, thft r Cana-
dians, cut a fquare hole injthe ^ice, r ;for the
cattle to drink out of, ; ;I faw. a .4rove of
fheep furroundmg one ;qf : t|iefe ;hole^; the
whole flock looked moft piteoufly, and
bleated . with, fo inaurnful a lamentation,
as would have pierp|$ ^aeartq^ftpne^pne
of them.Jeemed infinitely more agitated
than the reft,, aiwJ , exhibited feelings that
would have done honor to the moft, tender
fenfibiUty. Curiosity, concern, or what
you will, led me inftantly to thejmquth of
the hole, where a poor little lamb, r not four
days old, urged by extreme thirft, had
fallen
THROUGH 4M£IUCA. 471
fallen in 1 it was ftruggling for life; and
fent forth fuch diftrefsful cries !~-my-Qod,
how my pulfe beat,- and my breaft w^s full,
$vaa to burfting ! — how often di$ it get its
»
' little, feet on ( flakes that feemed to .progiife
ijt f\tppprt, and as often it flipt hack again
into the water ; . now, it . feemed by ineffec-
tual exertions, anxious for life, and now
hopelefs.. and despairing* lay inanimate; —
it was fome time before IcpulcJ extricate it ;
do iue juftice, and guefs my feelings,, till I
had ef£e£lually faved its life. I tQok it, up
in my arms, and the whole flock followed
* ' ' . • * . .. .' » .
me . to the farm houfe. .To defcrihe . the
*■ » ■ • • »
mother's folicitude, and t t he t joy at finding
itfafe, is impoffible,> language can, never
betray what the imagination itfelf .. can
fcarcely .paint. . You who. are poffefled of
fympathy , and a tender regard for the whole
creation, which is perhaps the greateft. or-
nament of human nature, will eafily believe
the ihfinite pleafure this little pflke. of hu-
manity afforded me. - .
This
172 INTERIOR TRAVELS
This is one of the many things in which
the mind might be apt to arraign the wif-
dora of Providence, why nature fhouJd
give birth to fuch tender creatures, at fo
rigorous a feafon of the year, when to all
appearance they require the utmoft watmth
to bring them to perfe&ion.
>
A few days fince I went to Verchere, to
fee fome officers of the 24th regiment, which
village is extremely pleafant, commanding
a very extenfive view both ways of the
river, with aprofpeft of this city. It derives
its name from a circumftance, wherein it
is proved that the fair fex, upon emer-
gencies, poffefs a courage equal, if not fu-
•perior to ours. In the year 1690, when
"this province was in a continual ftate of
warfare with the Indians, and the inha-
bitants were obliged to refide in forts, it
happened that a Madame de Verchere was
left alone in the fort, whilft the reft of the
people were at work in the fields 3 a fmall
party
THROUGH AMERICA. ' I7J
party of Vidians gaining this intelligence*
were determined to enter the fort, plunder
it, and take her prifbner ; Madame de Ver-,
4: here, .however, perceiving them approach
in a pofture for fcaling the palifado, fired
fome mufquet fhot, and drove them to a
diftance; they inftantly returned, and
were again repulfed, aftoniflied, you may
be fure, fince they could only discover a
woman, who appeared as undifmayed as
if fhe had been furrounded with a name-,
rous garrifon. The Indians knowing the
place was unprovided with any other de-
fence, made feveral attempts, and were
always repulfed by the lady, who defended
herfelf in the fort for near four hours, with a
valor andprefence of mind which wouldhave
don^ honor to an old warrior: they were
at length compelled to retire entirely, as the
inhabitants of the fort (who always went
out to labor with their mufquets, in cafe
of an attack) were returning, and greatly
fuperior in number to the Indians- This
was
J74 % INTERIOR TRAVELS
was not the only inftance of this lady's
courage, for about two years after, a party
of the fame Indians, but much more nu-
merous, furprized and took prifoners the
men, when at wdrk; a little girl happened
to make heir efcape, who, running into^
the fort acquainted Madame de Verchere
of what had happened* Shortly after the
Indians appeared before the fort, leading
the men captive. There was not afoul
left in it, befides a young foldier and a
number of women, who raifed moft lament-
able cries at the light of their hufbands
being led prifoners. In the midft of this,
Madame de Verchere loft neither her courage
nor prefence of mind, for after locking up
the women, that their groans and weeping
might not infpire the Indians with addi-
tional courage, and afluming the habili-
ments of a foldier, fhe fired a piece of can-
non and feveral mufquet (hot, (hewing her-
felf with her foldier, fometimes in one re-
doubt and fometimes in another, always
firing
THROUGH AMSTfclCA.' 1^5
firing upon the approach' of the Indians to
the breaft-work, who did: not make a fierce
affault, as by her ftratagerh they fuppofed
there were many men in the garrifbn. For-
tunately for the lady, fhe had not long to
remain in* this difagreeable ftate, for the
Chevalier de Crifafy who was Governor of a
fmall fort at ChambUe^ upon hearing the
firing of cannon, came to the fuccour of
the place, and that fo fuddenly, that the
Indians were obliged to make a very preci-
pitate retreat, leaving their prifoners be-
hind them.
This remarkable lady lived to a good old
age, and died in Normandy, where there i§
a monument erefred to her, with thefe two
fingular inftances of her fortitude and
bravery.
One would imagine that this fpot of Ver-
chere was deftined for the trial of fortitude
and bravery in the fair fex, to which I
might
176 INTERIOR TRAVELS
might add conjugal affe&ion. At this
time a lady rcfides here, noble by birth, m
whom is united all the foftnefs and deli-
cacy of her fex, ever accuftomed to thofe
elegancies and refined enjoyments which
are attendant upon high rank and fortune :
(he has forfaken all the pleafures of the
gay and fafhionable world, to accompany
her hufband to the wild forefts of Canada;
already travelled a vaft extent of country,
in different extremities of feafon, and with
difficulties that an European will not eafily
conceive. Such inftances of connubial at-
tachment, in the levity of the prefent day,
are rarely to be met with •, but that fuch
charafters do exift, and that the pleafures
and gaieties of the beau monde haye not al-
together vanquifhed the focial virtues, is to
be inftanced in that pattern of her fex, Lady
Harriet Ackland, who has not only encoun-
tered the hardfhips already defcribed, but
upon joining the army, in addition to her
former fatigues, had to attend her hufband
■ *
upon
THROUGH AMERICA. Vft
upon his fick bed, in a mifcrable hut at
ChambUe. A mind like hers, animated
by love and affe&ion, is alone capable of
encountering fuch hardships.
. General Phillips commands this garri*
fon, and is much efteemed by the officers
of the army -, he gives them as little trouble
as poffible, but will have them perform
their duty, and feldom miffes coming upon
the parade in a morning. The following
anecdote will give you a trait of his cha-
rafter, and (hew you the method he has
of gaining the efteem of the officers : -
One evening feveral young officers of the
artillery having made a little too free with
" the Tufcari grape, and being high in
blood," went to the houfe of a Canadian,
the father of three very pretty daughters :
it happened the young ladies were at home,
and as they had frequently given fome little
encouragement to the officers, thefe young
Vol. I. N ipen
IJrS INTERIOR TRAVELS
men tkowght thentfelves warranted in tak-*
ing a few liberties with them $ but, as the
wine ha4 deprived them of all ideas of re-
ftraint, they proceeded farther than the
rules of decency or delicacy allow of, or
than I cfrofe to relate. In the midft of this
fcene the father arrived, whofe appearance.
added greatly to the confufion, and the old
gentleman 'making a general alarm and
outcry, the officers were obliged to de-
camp.
The next morning a formal complaint
was made to General Phillips, by the father,
of the young ladies, who faid that if he
was not immediately redreffed, he would
fet off for Quebec, and lay his complaint
before General Carleton, at the fame time
informing him who had been the aggreflbrs*
adding, with fome warmth, §uil etoit Men
certain que ce bon General ltd rendroit juf-
tice.
The
•*».
TiHROUGH AMERICA. I79
The General profefled himfelf extremely
lorry that fuch a difgrace fhould have fallen
upon the officers of that garrifon, and that
he lhould, for his own fake, render him
all the juftice in his power, in order to
wipe off fuch a ftigma from his own corps,
which pacified the Canadian.
The next day being the General's levee,
thofe officers, who were now become con-
fcious of their imprudent behavibur, did
not abfent themfelves, leaft it fhould argue
guilt* After the General had made his
bow of retirement to the levee, be defired
that the officers of the artillery would re-
main, and the reft of the company being
departed, he addrefied them in the follow*
ing manner :
cc Gentlemen, I have had a very heavy
cc complaint made to me by one of the in-
€€ habitants, of fome of the officers of the
€c artillery, and cannot but fay I feel it
N 2 " more
l8o INTERIOR TRAVELS
" more forcibly, as commanding that corps
" —and of fuch a nature too — Gallantry
" has ever marked the foldier's chara&er,
c< and I could allow you to ufe every per-
" fuafive argument that lays in your power,
" but for Heaven's fake, don't ufe violence,
" that is beneath a man ! — For my own
" part, I do not know who has been guilty
" of fuch conduit, nor can I form the
>
" leaft idea of the perfon, unlefs it was
" Capt. H — , (pointing to an old and in-.
" firm officer) I am fure it could not be
any of the young gentlemen, certainly
their perfons and addrefs would have
" enfured them fuccefs. When you folicit
" the fair, violence becomes unneceffary.
" I neither know who the officers were,
" nor do I wifli to be informed ; but let
" me advife them to purfue different means,
when they next addrefs the ladies, as
they may reft afTured thofe they have
" adopted will never fucceed. I only defire
" that I may never hear of any more fuch
com-
11
It
€€
THROUGH AMERICA. l8l
<x complaints, nor need I fuggeft to thofe
*' gentlemen who are confcious of having
* c been concerned in this affair, that it is
" compatible with their chara&ers, to
<c make every fatisfa&ion and apology for
xc their conduft, to the father of the young
Sl ladies "
I need not obferve, that thofe who had
been the caufe of this handfome reprimand
of the General's, immediately went and
made the required apology. Thus, by
the natural politenefs and addrefs of Ge-
neral Phillips, ended a bufinefs, which,
under the cognizance of ' a more auftere
commander, might have been rendered
fatal to the charafters and fortunes of thofe
who had erred only in the moment of ine-
briation.
V
Moft of the inhabitants have large holes
dug in their cellars, which they fill with
ice, and thofe who have them are noyr
N 3 ' laying
l82 JttTERIOR TRAVELS
laying -it in for the fummer. I am in-
formed the heat is equally as predominant
as the sold is at prefent, and were it not
for the ice cellars, they could not keep their
provifions fweet a day. At this feafon of
the year, the inhabitants have very little
trouble in going to market, having only
the article of eggs and butter to purchafe,
for as foon as the froft fets in, they gene-
rally purchafe what provifions they think
will ferve them till it breaks up, not only
fiefti and fowl, but even fifh, for they
make holes in the ice^ and let down nets
five or fix fathoni long, which feldom are
drawn up empty, and thefe articles, when
brought for fale, are frozen as hard as
a ftbne ; the provifions being laid in fo
long before they have occafion to ufe them,
are always tender. When they want to
drefs any thing, it is put into a pail of cold
water before the fire, otherwife the water
ipould fpon be congealed; in about an
hour*
THROUGH* AMERICA. 183
hour, whatever kind of provifion is put
in thaws, and becomes fit for i^fe.
The lower clafs of Canadians are exceed-
ingly infolent, and infult the officers upon
every occafion ; their behaviour would be
infufferable, did they not now and then
get feverely chaftifed. Was I induced to
hazard an opinion as to the caufe of this,
I ftiould attribute it to the very great in-
dulgence fhewn to them by General Carle*
ton ; they imagine it is only to lay their
complaints, however abfurd, before him,
and be redreffed, according to the ftory
they tell him. The following is the beft
fpecimen I can give you, in confirmation
of my aflertion :
r
As Colonel Carleton was driving his
cariole, with a lady in it, upon the ice, a
Canadian drove his fleigh defignedly againft
the Colonel's cariole, by which it was
overfet and much damaged : upon this the
N 4 Colonel
184 INTERIOR TRAVELS
Colonel gave him a moil fevere horfe-
whipping, which the Canadian bore very
patiently, faying, with a flight fhrug,
Fouettez done Monfieur> jufques a ce que vous
foyez fatigui* mais je vous ajfure je me'n
plaindrai au General Carletori. The Colo-
nel then encreafed his flagellation, telling
him at the fame time, Et quand vous vous
plaindrez au GhUral> ayez la bonte de Yin-
former en meme terns, que cejl fonfrhe qui
vous afou'itti. The Canadian hearing this,
and prefuming he fhould then obtain no
redrefs, began to afk pardon, became very
fubmiflive, an4 was glad to make the beft of
his efcape, by (linking away and drawling
out, $uej?l eut fu que cetoit lefrfre du bon
Ginlral) il riauroit pas fait cefa pour tout
au monde.
This little anecdote, while it convinces
you what great lengths thefe plebeians go,
when they imagine themfelves prote&ed,
will afford you an example of that mean-
nefs
THROUGH AMERICA. 185
nefs ever attendant upon vulgar and bafe
minds, when a proper chaftifement is be-
llowed upon them, for fuch inftances of
their audacity.
I am juft informed there is an opportu-
nity of fending letters to Quebec, from
whence this will foon reach you, with my
fincere wifhes for your health and happi-
nefs. I remain,
Yours, &c.
LET-
l86 , INTERIOR TRAVELS
LETTER XVII.
Montreal, April 6th, 1 777.
MY DEAR FRIEND,
A S we are now in daily hopes of the
•*- ^ froft's breaking up, and every one is
anxious and impatient to hear from his
friends, do not let me meet with a difap-
pointment.
Being defirous to vifit every place worthy
of notice, I went to ChambUe^ where are
the remains of a fort, formerly built by
by the French, for what purpofe they are
the beft judges : it is faid their intention
was to prevent an army entering Canada*
It
THROUGH AMERICA. 187
It is fo fituated, that an army can march
by ha Praire and La Chine, take Montreal,
and then turn their whole force againft the
fort, which would be thus cut off from
any relief. This has been clearly evinced
this war, when General Prefcott, with fe*
veral companies, were taken prifoners in
it.
The fort is built of ftone, of a regular
fquare, with four haftions at each angle,
without any out-works, and is fituated a
few miles from the mountains which I have
already defcribed ; from its fituation I can
never fuppofe it otherwife than intended
as a magazine for ftores and provifions to
fupply St. John's.
About three miles from the fort are the
rapids, which prevent fhipping going up
to St. John's ; there is a faw-mill there,
and it being the firft of the kind I ever faw,
I was particular in my examination of it.
After
l88 INTERIOR TRAVELS
After the owner had given me every nece£-
fary information, I afked him which Go-
vernment he preferred, when he exclaimed,
Ob! Monfieur, il riy a point de comparaifon,
Vjfriglois VAngloh! and then related a cir-
cumftancp, which no doubt you will fay
carried a powerful reafon for the poor old
man's giving us the preference, and affords
another proof how much the Canadians
were opprefTed by the French.
There was a cuftom, which is continued
for the repair of roads, tranfporting pro^
vifions, and other fervices for Government,
called a corvee ; it is in the breaft of the
Captains of the Militia to nominate fuch
a number of inhabitants to go with horfes
and carts upon that duty.
At the time Lord Amherft was expe&ed
.to enter Canada, acrofs Lake Cbamplain,
the French were continually fending fup-
plies of ammunition and provifions to
Cham-
THROUGH AMERICA. 189
Chamblee and St* John's, and the inhabi-
tants, as well as their cattle, were almoft
worked and harraffed to death, by the op-
preffion and tyranny of the Captains of
Militia.
Before the campaign commenced, Gene-
ral Montcalm went to St; John's and
Chanfblee y to fee that thofe garrifons were
in a perfeft ftate of defence, when the
poor peafants afTembled in a body round
him> and fell on their knees to tell their
grievances. The man who owned the faw-
mill told the General he was willing to
ferve le Grand Monarque> but he had been
much opprefledj that his harveft and plan-
tation had been negle&ed, and his family
almoft ruined and ftarving ; and, to add to
his misfortunes, que le deux feuls cbevaux
qui lui refiment etoient morts de fatigue la veillei
to which the General, iiiftead of comfort-
ing and redrefling the poor old man,
with a very ftern look, and at the fame
time
19a INTERIOR TRAVELS
time twirling his croix de St. Louis, replied,
Mais vous en avez les peaux, cejl beaucoup,
cejt beaucoup I
Among the various amufements we en-
joyed while away this long winter, I forgot
to mention that fkating is one, which thofe
who are fond of that divcrfion are amply
indulged in, there being fuch a conftancy
and large extent of ice. There are feveral
officers in the regiment, who being exceed-
ing fond of it, have inftituted a ikating
club, to promote diverfion and convivia-
lity.
The Canadians lkate in the manner of
the Dutch, and exceedingly faft, but the
Indians dart along like lightning. Some
years fince, for a confiderable wager, three
Indians fet off from this place at day light,
and before dark arrived at Quebec, which
is 60 leagues ; their fatigue, however, was
fo great, that two expired ihortly after
their
THROUGH AMERICA; I^I
their arrival, and the third did not furrivc
above a week, '
In this country there is no fpring nor
autumn, and as the froft is daily expe&ed
to break, the troops are kept in continual
exercife. General Carleton is come to re-
view the^ifferent regiments ; but the fnow
is fo deep upon the ground, they are exer-
cifed and to be reviewed on the ice, which
you would naturally think extremely dan-
gerous, and that the men would flip and
do one another mifchief with their bayo-
nets $ but fuch is the power of the fun at
this time, that during the day it thaws the
furface, which freezing again at night,
forms a kind of fmall ice, affording a
fteady footing, added to which, all the ice
oppofite the city is covered with loofe
ftraws blown from the dung. The foil
being fo extremely prolific, they have no
occafion for manure, and therefore bring
it
/ /
I92 INTERIOR TJRAVELS
it in flcighs upon the ice, to be carried
away when it breaks up.
There are many unpleafant duties at-
tending an officer, but none more fo than
fitting upon a court-martial. A few days
ago, being upon that duty, I felt myfelf
much diftrctfed, as being the junior officer,
and of courfe the firft to pafs fentence, but
was foon releafed from that painful talk,
the culprit efcaping a punifhment, by his
blunt oddity. * The crime for which he
was tried, and for which he had been twice
punifhed before, was that of drunkennefs
and diforderly behaviour, which being
upon this occafion clearly proved, he was
afked by thePrefident what he had to fay in
his defence. He replied, cc Oh ! and plaife
" your Honors, I have nothing to fay, but
"to fave your Honors and the Court any
" further trouble, you may fet me down two
" hundred, I'm fure your Honors will think
" that enough." The droll and fimple man-
ner
THROUGH AMERICA. I93
ner in which the fellow fpoke, accompanied
with his dialedl, occafioned a fmile upon
every one prefent. After he was ordered
to withdraw, the Court were of opinion,
that as the man was in other refpe&s a
good foldier, his whimfical manner fhould
in this inftance fave him a punifhment ;
when, being called in, and receiving a
fevere reprimand from the Prefident, and
his promifing never to be guilty of the like
again, he was difmiffed. After thanking
the Court for their lenity, he faid, " Since
" as your Honors have been fo good to me,
" 111 keg myfelf for fix months, direftly I
u get home." As you will not eafily com-
prehend the word keg, or how it can be ap-
plied in this inftance, I will explain it to
you : it is a cant word that the foldiers
have among them, when they wifh to re-
frain from liquors, they take an oath
that for fuch a limited time they will
not touch any fpirits whatever, and if they
are ftrongly addi£led to liquor, not hingcan
Vol. I. O tempt
194 INTERIOR TRAVELS
tempt them to tafle any. Perhaps you
will fay, it would not be amifs if the offi-
cers fometimes followed their example.
It is incredible to think what a difference
a few days makes at this feafon of the year.
About fix days after our regiment was re-
viewed, the fnow began to thaw, and is
now totally diffblved, except where there
has been great drifts, and the ice along the
banks has fuch great chafms, that the river
is now unfafe to pafs over. The center,
where the rapids had thrown up the ice,
every now and then breaks, with a noife
equal to thunder.
i
It is aftonifhing how quick vegetation
is in this country, you can almoft perceive
the grafs grow; the fnow has* not been
gone many days, and the fields are en-
tirely green, which can only be attributed
to the ground's being continually covered
with fnow, which nourifhes and preferves
: - ••• ' the
THROUGH AMERICA. I95
the blades with fuch a warmth, that when
the fun, which even now is extremely
powerful, can come at it, it brings it for-
ward fo very rapidly.
The roads are almoft impaffable, but I
am informed that in the courfe of a fort-
night they will be as dry and dufty as in
the midft of fummer.
1
In going out of the city towards Paint
aux trembles, on the right hand, ftand as
ftately old houfe, which was built by a
perfon, who, after many difappointments
and loffes in trade, with the moft unremit-
ing and indefatigable induftry, had fcraped
together a plentiful fortune, and as an
allufion to the particulars of his life, had
, carved over his front door the figure of a
dog gnawing a large flefhy bone, with this
whimfical infcription :
Je fuis U chiin qui ronge I'os
Sans en perdre unfeul morceau :
Le temps viendra, qui n 9 eft pas *ve*u
\ Je mordrai celui, m'aura mordu,
O 2 The
Ip6 INFERIOR TRAVEtS
The gi'eat diverfion of carioling is now
over, and the inhabitants are getting ready
their calafhes, for they are equally as fond
of driving in them as in their carioks.
I am told there is feldom a winter pafles,
but feveral people lofe their lives, both be-
fore the river freezes over and when the
ice breaks up, by being too adventurous in
croffing it, a (hocking inftance of which
happened three days ago.
Acrofs the chafms made by the ice in
breaking up, which fometimes aire five or
fix yards wide, a bridge of planks is
thrown ; a cariole paffing over one of thefe,
in which was two perfons, the horfe
proving unruly, drew it over the fide, and
they fell down the qhafm near forty feet,
where they remained a little time, it befng
narrow at the bottom, and though every
affiftance was inftantly had, no relief could
be afforded, as before the ladders and ropes
could
THROUGH AMERICA. I97
could be let down to them, the weight of
the horfe and cariole broke the ice at the
bottom, and they were all carried away by
the current.
I could not help thinking of the poor
lamb in the fame fituation, and lamented
the ftriking difference between .the defpair
of a whoie anxious .flock for the lofs of a
young one, and that buftling coldnefs
which difgraced humanity, at the fudden
and unexpedled death of a man.
The cloathing for the army not being
fent out. laft year, and as it will be too
late to fit it to the men when it arrives,
the commanding officers of the different
regiments have received orders to reduce
the men's coats into jackets, and their hats
into caps, as it will be the means of repair-
ing their prefent cloathing, and be more
convenient for wood fervice, that when
the army take the field, they will in a man-
CD 3 ner
I98 INTERIOR TRAVELS
ner be all light infantry. The regiments
have the hair that is affixed to their caps
of different colors ; ours is red, and as the
pureft white hair takes the beft color, feve-
ral foldiers, ambitious to have theirs fupe-
rior to the reft, occafioned a very ludicrous
affray betwixt them and the inhabitants,
in which the foldiers were worfted, and got
a fevere beating.
They went into a field, to the num-
ber of about twenty, and began to cut
the hair from the bottom of the cows
tails : the owner obferving this, aflembled
his neighbours and fell upon the foldiers
with fticks, when a fcuffle enfued, and
the foldiers returned home / with broken
heads.
Two that had been feverely beaten,
made a complaint to the Major of the
regiment, who afked them if they had on
their fide-arms, when replying in the ne-
gative,
THROUGH AMERICA. J99
gative, he told them how glad he was
they had got a beating ; that they ftiould
always be worn, being the fame to a fol-
dier as a fword was to an officer.
The inhabitants fay, that the winter has
been quite mild to what the laft was, and
if fo, their . hard winters mull be terribly
cold; that in general the froft feldom
breaks till the end of this month, and
fometimes May -, and as a proof of its
mildnefs, feveral nations of Indians have
come fonie hundred miles to join the
army.
It is a pity their affiftance cannot be
difpenfed with, as they will not be re-
ftrained ; they are abfolutely neceflary in
this, woody country, and efpecially as the
enemy have them, they are a reftraint upon
each other, and I really believe fo much
mifchief will not e&fue, as if only one
party had engaged them. Thofe on our
O 4 fide
/
200 INTERIOR TRAVELS
fide will be fuperior in numbers to the
Americans, as they cannot furnifh them
with neceffary fupplies.
The attachment of the Indian lafts no
longer' than you heap prefents on him,
and he fides with that party which will
make the greateft.
It is abfolutely neceffary to keep well
with them, for though there is fuch an
amazing, traft of country in poflfeffion of
Europeans, it is nothing when put in
competition with the unknown tra£l that
extends to the weftward. And though
the Indians are much depopulated, ftill
they are a very numerous race of people ;
it is altogether unknown where many na-
tions are fettled, nor could it be afcer-
tained any fuch exifted, were it not for
draggling Indians belonging to them, that
are cafually met with.
Thefe
THROUGH AMERICA. 201
Thefe people are under great fubje&ion
to their chiefs, and pay implicit obedience
to them : They come every year to Mon-
treal, to what is * called the fair, when
feveral hundreds of them affeiqble, and
are exceedingly troublefome to the inha-
bitants, they receive prefents to keep
them peaceable, and in league of friend-
ihip ; it is incredible what immenfe fums
it annually cofts Government for that
purpofe.
General Carleton returns to-morrow to
Quebec, and as I fend this by one of his
Aid-de-Camps, who is going to England,
and who has fent his fervant for my letters,
I am obliged to conclude haftily, with
afluring you, that you fhall hear from me
by every opportunity, and remain,
Yours, &c.
LET-
20S INTERIOR TRAVELS
LETTER XVIII.
Montreal, May zotb, 1777.
jMY DEAR FRIEND,
NO T having had a letter from you
thefe fix months, it is impoflible to
exprefs the pleafure yours gave me. I fin-
cerely rejoice that your health is re-efta-
hlifhed, and hope it 'will always continue
fo.
You hint in yours, that great events are
expe&ed in the courfe of the enfuing cam-
paign, and that the operations of the two
armies will nearly terminate this unfortu-
nate conteft. As to our army, I can only
x fay,
THROUGH AMERICA. 203
(ay, if good difcipline, joined to health and
great fpirit amongft the men, with their
being led on by General Burgoyne, who
is univerfally efteemed and refpedted, can
enfure fufcefe, it may be expe£ted j but,
as I obferved before, we have more dan-
gerous enemies at home, than any we have
to encounter abrcad, for all tranfa&ions
that are to take place are publicly known,
long before they are officially given out in
orders, and I make no doubt but you will
be as much furprized as the General was,
when I tell you that the whole operations
of the enfuing campaign were canvaffed for
feveral days before he arrived, who no
doubt fuppofed, that in giving out his
orders he was communicating an entire
fecret.
• *
If, therefore, there are people in office,
fo imprudent as to communicate any pub-
lic intelligence, no doubt the numerous
agents and well-wiffiers to the Americans
will
r
204 INTERIOR TRAVELS
will not be negligent in gaining continual
and immediate information. As intelligence
is the main fpring of every movement in
an army, the Americans will have a great
advantage, and what will add considerably
to that advantage, is the great fecrecy they
obferve, and the utter impoflibility to ob-
tain the leaft intelligence of any of their
defigns, while they are previoufly acquaint-
ed with every one of ours.
About three weeks ago the river broke
up> which was accompanied with a moft
aftonifhing noife : it happened in the night,
and ypu muft judge how ftrange it muft
appear, after being ufed to fee, for fuch a
length of time, fo fpacious a body of ice,
with horfes, carriages, and men travelling
on it, changed to a beautiful river> with
a number of fhips and boats failing and
rowing upon it.
The
THROUGH AMERICA. 205
The country wears quite a new face, and
fummer is come all at once. The inhabi-
tants are now buiily employed on their
farms, and every thing appears a fcene of
buftle and induftry, after fuch a length of
time patted in dull ina&ivity.
The army is now in movement to take
the field; the advanced corps are already
encamped at Bouchervilk, and were review-
ed by General Burgoyne a few days fince.
I accompanied feveral officers to fee them,
who had never ken 1500 military men
aifembled together. As to the battalions
of the light infantry and grenadiers, fuch
a body of men could not be raifed in a
twelvemonth, fearch England through.
The line of the advanced corps extended a
mile; they performed, exclufive of the
common manoeuvres, feveral new * ones,
calculated for defence in this woody coun-
try, and the General was pleafed to ex-
prefs his approbation in the warmefl: terms,
with
2o6 INTERIOR TRAVELS
with regard to the high difciplinc of the
men. They proceed in a few days to St.
John's, and from thence they are to go
upon the Lake, as far as the river La Cole 9
where they are to encamp, till the main
body of the army is put in motion.
/
I was much pleafed at a little politeffe
and attention of that amiable woman,
Lady Harriet Ackland — Exclufive of the
excellent qualities that had already endear-
ed her to the officers of the grenadiers
(which corps Major Ackland commands)
fhe thought proper to exprefs a fenfe of
their attention to her (and who could be
inattentive ? ) by fome little prefent ; fo a few
days before the officers took the field, fhe
fent each of them, (thirty in number) half
of- a large Chefhire cheefe, which was no
fuch fmall prefent as you may imagine,
Englifh cheefe being then a dollar per
pound ; and perhaps it may riot occur to
you, there is no prefent you can fend to an
European
THROOGft AMERICA* tO^i
European abroad, fo great & good Cfadfairer
cheefe. If you fhould be inclined to ibid
me one, and this is no fmall hint, let me
deftre you to enclofe it in lead, and then
in horfe-hair, the former to prefenre the
moifture, aand the latter as the only fefe-
guard againft the amazing large rats that
are in fuch great abundance inalmoftall
fliips.
It much pleafed me toobferve the manner
in which the inhabitants kept Holy Thurs-
day, which they term La Fete Dieu. , On
the evening preceding that day, I could not
conceive the reafon that the people were
bringing cart loads of fmall firs into the
city j but judge how great was my fur-
prize in' the morning, when I went to the
parade, to find the ftreets fwept as clean
as pofiible, thefe trees ftuck in the ground
on each fide, and fo contrived that their tops
united, that every ftreet had the appear-
' ance of a grove, and upon enquiry found
it
208 . INTERIOR TRAVELS
was intended for the celebration of this
»
great feftival.
About eleven o'clock the proceffion .be-
gan from the great Church, which extend-
ed near half a mile in length. All the
principal Clergy, the Friars of the different
Convents, with a large band of mufic at-
tending; in the center of the proceffion,
under a canopy of crimfon velvet, fup-
ported by fix Priefts* the High Prieft car-,
lied the Host, upon a Bible, covered with
a white napkin, and before him two men
bore a large bafket full . of flowers, which
were ftrewed by feveral little boys in fur-
plices; four others, with fiker chalices,
were continually wafting the incenfe to-
wards the Hoft, the people at the fame time
finging anthems. In this manner the pro-
ceffion went through moft of the ftreets
in the city, and thofe who met it fell in-
ftantly on their knees ; thofe who remain-
ed in their houfes, came to the windows *
and
THROUGH AMERICA. 2O0
i
and did the. fame. I cannot but fay it was
a pleafing fight, and could not help think-
ing but it muft be. magnificent indeed, ixt
thofe countries where the Roman Catholic?
is the eftablifhed religion.
We were apprized of fome proceflion,
from an order given the day preceding by
General Phillips, but had no idea of feeing
fuch a fpe&acle. There having been feve^
ral difputes in Roman Catholic countries,
concerning the refpe6t that the military
fhould pay the Hoft> when palling by, his
Majefty, a few years ago, iflued out a gene-
ral order for that purpofe, which General
Phillips gave out in orders as follows :—
* c As to-morrow there will be a great pfo-
€t ceflion through the city, I need not in-
" form the officers of the refpe6t and
c< attention his Majefty has required fhould
*' be paid the Hoft, when paffing. The
<c non-commiflioned officers are defired to'
tc be particular in informing the men, that
Vol. I. P ' " when
€€
<C
2IO INTERIOR TRAVELS
cc when the Hoft is going by; they afe to
" front it, and behave in a decent and re-
" fpe&ful manner, to pull off their hats,
<c and remain in that fituation till the pro-
ceffion has paffed. Any complaint that
is made to the General, will be punifhed
" with the utmoft feverity."
To-morrow I leave this city, to join the
advanced corps at the river La Cole. Situ-
ated as I muff be, confined to the com-
pany, which I am proud in faying is com-
manded by Lord Peterfham, you cannot
expeft the whole detail of the manoeuvres
of the different actions that may happen,
or a particular account of the fiege of Ti-
conderoga. I fhall however inform you
of every thing that comes under my own
obfervation, and give you my opinion of
events, not as an officer, but merely as a
fpettator.
The
THROUGH AMERICA. 211
The officers take the field under great
difadvantages> in regard to horfes to tranf-
port their baggage, when they quit the
Lakes ; thofe for the ufe of Government
are fent through the woods to Crown*
Point, but their arrival at that place is very
uncertain, as they are liable to be taken by
the enemy. It is quite a hazard, but ra-
ther than be diftreffed when I get to Ti-
tonderoga, I have* rifqued fending mine,
with fome others, through the woods -, if
they arrive fafe it will be a vaft conveni-
ence ; if not, I (hall be compelled to fend
back my baggage, and then, hey for cou-
rage and a knapfack !
Should any misfortune attend the cattle
intended for Government, it will greatly
retard the army, provided the. Americans
fhould abandon Ticonderoga ; at all events
it will impede us in fome meafure, as it
will be feveral days after the army gets
there before the horfes arrive, and you
P 2 may
212 INTERIOR TRAVELS
* •
may eafily conceive an ajrmy cannot move
without its artillery and proviiioa?.
Another great difadvantagfc which we
experience in the profecution of this war,
and whkh the Americans avoid is, that we
have to tranJfpqrt all our provifions with
Ms x whereas they have magazines Jjkored
with great abundance, every thirty or fprty
miles 5 where, in cafe any difafter attends
their army, the lofs of their provifions is
eafily recruited. But if any fuch event
Jhould happen with us,- we fhould bo
obliged to make a ftand at fome ftrong poft,
till provifions could be fent from Canada.
Added to this, the Americans are by
much our fuperiors at wood - fighting,
being habituated to the woods from their
infancy. Our fuccefs in any engagement
muft greatly reft on the bayonet, the great
utility of which General Burgoyne pointed
out in an order a few days fince, ftrongly
recom-
THROUGH AMERICA. 2IJ
recommending the officers to inculcate that
idea into the minds of the men.
After I leave this city, you muft not ex-
pe6t to hear from me fo regularly as you
have lately. But you may reft allured, I
fliall embrace every opportunity of letting
you know I am not yet/ood for the crows.
Yours, &c.
< •>
P3 LET-
214 INTERIOR TRAVELS
LETTER XIX.
Montreal, May z6th, . 1 7 7 7 .
MY DEAR FRIEND,
A FEW days fince I was invited to
dine with Capt. Frazer, who is fu-
perintendant over the Indians, and Tvho
gave us a dinner entirely of wild-meats.
Moft of the difhes were only to fet off the
table, there being fuch things there as very
few of the company could partake of; we
had the leg of a bear, indeed, which was
falted, and far exceeded in flavor a leg of
pork ; another difh, which though deemed
a great rarity with you, is not efteemed
fuch here, a very fine haunch of venifon.
To
THROUGH AMERICA.
215
To tell you the truth, I really made my
repaft of what MonfieurRcberdeau y of Que-
bec,* hinted to me, of the Friandifes. ,
Juft as the cloth was removed, there
came into the room a great number of
Indians, (and amongft them one very old)
who not having much ceremony, and feeing
the bottles and glaffes on the table, would
drink with us, and began to be extremely
troublefome, when Capt. Frazer interfered,
and to fhew you the controul he has over
them, the inftant he fpoke, they quitted
the room, but not without a prefent, for
2 did not underftand the Indian language*
but as J thought, and as he jafterw$rds told
us "he was obliged to order h*s feryant to
give them a bottle of rum,. . . ~ 7
After we hadgpt;Xid pf thefe trouble-
fome guefts, and the table reftored to order,
Capt. Frazer faid, Geritlemen, I obferved
you >0 . took notice of that *>Jd Indian*
r P4 which
3l6 INTERIOR TRAVELS
which the company acquiefcing in, he
told the following very lingular hiftory re^
lative to him :
That Indian, feid he, is of the Algonquin
nation, who are converted to Chriftianity,
and who, being attached to the French, had
excited the enmity of the Iroquois., whole
hatred to Chriftians carried them to every
excefs of f ury, murdering and tormenting
to death, without any regard to fex or age,
every one that had the misfortune to fell
into theif hands. To efcape the fury of
the Iroqmis x the whole nation of the Algou*
quins were determined to fight their way to
the F^nch, in which ftruggle the wo-
men took no incenfiderable fhare, but
nobly refilled their enemies on this occa-
sion, when it fo happened, that the mother
of that old Indian was taken prifonei*.
The Irtquois carried her to one of their
villages, ftripped her- naked, bound her
1 hand
THROUGH AMERICA, 217
hand and foot in one of their cabins, and
in that ftate fhe remained for ten days, the
lavages ikeping round every night. The
j ith night, when they were all afleep, fhe
cfiiehgaged herfelf from the ropes they had
bound her with and fled into the foreft. The
iecond day after her efcape, her footfteps
were perceived by the Iroquois who were in
fcarch of her, and they purfued her with
fiich expedition, that the thiVd day (he
difccnrered them clofe at hear heels 4 fhe in-
jftauiiy' plunged into a pond of water that
was siear her, and diving amongft fome
weeds and bulrufhes, juft kept her head
above ;w!ater, fo as to breathe, and by
this ftratagem efcaped from her piirfuers,
wher, after making a moft diligent fearch*
went sway the couufe they thought fhe
would take. Wten night eame on, fhe left
lie*. filiation, and took a different route
to that fhe perceived the favages had taken,
fey which means this poor creature wan-
dered through the woods for five and
thirty
2l8 .INTERIOR TRAVEL!
thirty days, without any other fuftenance
than roots and wild-berries. At length
Ihe came to the river St. Laurence, and
not perceiving any canoe along the fhore,
made a kind of wicker raft, on which
fhe croffed the river, and had paffed by
Montreal, not knowing well in what part
of the river fhe was, when, perceiving a
canoe full of favages, and fearful left they
might be Iroquois*, fhe again ran into the
woods, and remained till fun-let, when
fixe dire&ed her courfe to Montreal- —
«
Within a-mile of the city, fhe was difco-
vered fey a party whom fhe knew to be
Algonqmm \ when they approached her, fhe
fquatted down behind a bufh, calling out
to them that fhe was not in a condition to
be : feeii„ as .fhe was naked ; one of them
then threw her a blanket, arid conducted
her into the fort. After Capt. Frazer had
related this fiory, he told us this old In-
dian-took great pkafure in telling it to
every one, at the fame time , expreffing the
utmoft
THROUGH AMERICA, 219
utmoft indignation, and vowing revenge
againft the Iroquois. -
We had fcarcely drank five glaffes, after
Captain Frazer had finifhed his narration,
when the Indians returned, upon a, pre-
tence of. bufinefs to him, which was no
other than that of procuring more rum 3
which Captain Frazer refufing them, they
grew , extremely troubkfome, and what,
with the Jiquor they had : already drank,
were much beyond ~ any r controul, for
they paid no attention to Capt. .Frazer,
who, finding he could not pacify, or any
way get rid of them, made us an apology,
and the company broke up.
<
On my return home, mentioning to my
landlord what I had heard concerning the
Iroquois^ he faid, Monfieur y les Iroquois font
le plus fauvage etfraudukux de tout> and re-
lated the fad cataftrophe of a Miflionary,
one Father Jogues> who refided a little be-
low
2feO INTERIOR TRAVELS
fow Trots Rivieres : imagining he had made
great progrefs in converting them to Chrif-
tianity, during a (hort interval of peace,
was willing to fprsdd his doftrine amongft
the rettiote of the Iroquois •, for that pur-
pofe,' he fet out with foUf Indians, and a
ydung Frenchman as hifr fervant •, he had
not pafled Trots Rivieres above a league,
Wh*n- his four favage guides abandoned
them: yet fiich was his enthufiafiri and
confidence of having wrought upon them
fc* far, that his perfon was in fafety,
he would not return, but travelled on,
and at' the very firft Iroquois village he and
his? fervant came to, he was tdo fatally
convinced of his error, for they were feized,
ftript, fcourged, buffeted, and treated as
pfifbners of war. At this fudden change
the good Father wa£ in great amazement,
and began (for he could fpcak their Ian-
gnigt) to expoftulate with all the powers
r
of elocution, which were of h6 avail, and
the -only favor that- his eloquence* could
■
procure
TrtRQUOH AMERICA.' tZl\
procure him was, that inftead of burning
him and his companion alive, they hu-
manely condefcended to behead them with
a hatchet. After my landlord had finifhed
the ftory, he faid, with great warmth and
indignation, Monfieur^ les Iroquois font frau~
duleux comme le Diable, et en voy agent fat
toujour s crainte de le rencontre \ and, from
m
the ftory he had related, you will no doubt
fay he had very gopd foundation for his
fears.
I am, yours, fcc.
LET-
222 INTERIOR TRAVELS
L E T T E R XX.
Montreal, May 31/, *777«
. MY DEAR FRIEND*
BEFORE I leave this city, though
there is not much leifure time on
my hands, I fhall communicate to you
the fruit of my enquiries (to which I have
applied myfelf this winter) refpe&ing the
advantage England derives from Canada.
It was a complaint, and perhaps . not
without foundation, that Canada never
enriched France, and that none of its in-
habitants acquired the leafl fortunes, but
the Indian traders. As it was not the
fault
tfcROUGH AMERICA. %t^
fault of the country, which has many
ftaple commodities, from which a fource
of wealth might be derived, whence then
is to be attributed this caufe ? Firft, from
the continual ftate of warfare this pro-
vince has been in from its very firft fettle-
ment ; to the oppreffivenefs of the govern-
ment, and the rapacioufnefs of the clergy ;
from which caufes (except thofe enterpriz-
ing people who embark in the fur trade)
the inhabitants not having a ftimulative
motive, were content witn a mere exiftence,
and if a Canadian could but pay his tythes
and duties to his prieft, and lay up a little
to enjoy a long tedious winter, his happi-
nefs was compleat.
But the fcene is now reverfed ; all over
the province there are faw and grift-mills,
and the Canadians are now enriching tliem-
felves, by exporting lumber and grain to
the Weft Indies and the other provinces.
As I obferved before, it was not the fault
of
224 INTERIOR ^TRAVELS
of the country, for to perfons indtfftriottfly
inclined, this country has many advan-
tages, as after they have tilled their ground
in autumn* from that time till the middk
, of April and the begining of May, when
they fow their crops, they have to cut down
timber, and to faw it for Building, flip-
ping, and other ufes * ready for exportation
when the froft breaks up. Another great
advantage this country poffeffes, is the
quick vegetation, for the crop that is fown
in May fprings up, grows to perfection,
is cut down and carried into the barns by
the end of AugufL
Without confidering the hardfhips and
difficulties they were expofed to, the Indian
trader was always looked upon with an en-
vious eye : but now, as they are not liable
to the rapacity of ftate and clergy, but en-
joy all the privileges of our happy confti-
tutioft, their ihduftry is very great, and
m
thofe * winters that* ufed to be fpent in
feafling
THROUGH AMERICA* 22$
feafting and pleaftire, is now employed to
more ufeful purpofes, and an Indian tra-
der is not now a man fo much to be en-
vied.
Daily experience (hews, that this pro-
vince- is capable of producing more re-
fburces than one. What motives of policy
could it be in the Ffench to keep the Ca-
nadians in fuch a ftate' of oppreffion ? It
fhould feem that France was fufficiently
proud in having this vaft territory annexed
to its crown, and content with the pro-
duce of the fur trade. But left you think
I -am entering too deeply into politics, I
ftiall conclude, deferring to my next an
account of the fur trade, which ftill is the
greateft refource of wealth to England, but
which muft in procefs of time be annihilat-
ed, from the very great deftru£tion of the
animals, which every year diminishes them
fo fkft, and occafions their flying to re- .
moter parts, that the trader has hundreds
Vol. I. ■ Q^ of
ZZ6- INTERI6A *ftAVELS
of kagu^sferther to go in feareh of them;
the nfctfeftity , therefore of encouraging huf-
Iwtadfcy, -frill' appear evident to you. But
I fee I am again running into politics,
therefore adieu.
J*
* - : ' '■ ~ 7 ' • — / - YoSrs, &c : . - :
» •*
. ,. * . % f
» * '
' "\
I
* * • t »
4.
.." ""o f .: - ■ .- ;•• LET-
«
- • 9 J ^« » * ~ » V
• f
I X *^ . • • - » ♦
*• ^* ^v
% V »
THROUGfi AMERICA. 22J
i t *
L E T T E R. XXI.
• » «.# w
. . t ? . • :
* :
Mdnireai, JiMS %£>> 1-777 •
. . MY J)EAR FJUENDj
• » r * * «
j j • . i : ■ » ; i . .
I NOW.. proceed .to give you .fome ac-
count of the fur trade, and a& in one of
my former letters the nature. of ^xxdian tra-
ders were defcribed to you and their modes
pf trafficking with the favages, I {hall give
you fome little account of, the ;beaftSj
whofe furs they go in fearch of, and hops
you will not think any little remarks that
I may interfperfe, as dilating to • your fu-
periot fenfe and understanding, but merely
J 4
ideas that occur to me whilft writing.
Oj By
228 INTERIOR TRAVELS
. ♦
By the accounts moft authors have given
us of Canada, they defcribe it, upon its firft
difcovery, to have been an immenfe tra£l
of foreft, ferving only as an extenfive haunt
to wild beafts, with which it was over-run,
and which had multiplied prodigioufly $
for thofe few men who did inhabit thofe
deferts,- not having any flocks or tame ani-
mals, left more room and food for thofe
that were wandering and free, like them-
felves -, and although there was no great
variety, Hill* there were multitudes of each
lpccies. But they, as every thing, fobner or
later, in this terreftrial globe, paid tribute
to the fovereignty of man; that cruel
power that has been fo fatal to every living
creature, and the few that the natives der
ftroyed for their food and cloathing, were
of little note in fuch a prodigious multi-
tude. No fooner had our luxury led us
to make ufe of their {kins, than the natives
waged a perpetual war againft them, which
they carried on with great eagernefs, as in
return
.•
THROUGH AMERICA.
229
return for the havoc and deftru&ion they
made aijiohgft them, they indulged in a
plenty and variety of gratifications thpy
were before unaccuftomed to ; and to ren-
der the war the morejleftru&ive, we aflifted
them with fire-arms, by the means of
which great quantities of furs, and. of a
prodigious variety, were procured. Moft
of thefe were known in Europe, which
were the fame as : thofe that came from the
northern parts of our hemifphere, but they
were in too fmall quantities to fiipply a
great demand.
Caprice and novelty has made thefe furs
more or lefs in fafhion, and England has
found it to be for the intereft of Canada,
that they fhould be valued at home ; and
that they arefo with a witnefs, the enor-
mous price your fitter gave for a muff and
tippet, is a convincing proof: here I aflure
you they are very dear, the commoneft fur
cap Handing you in two guineas.
Q^3 As
230 INTERIOR TRAVELS
Having given you a-Jittle hiftoiy of
furs, I ffraU now defence to- you fome of
the beafts whofe (kins are ftill jn requeft,
and firft begin with the Otter, which is.fo
generally known in England, as to need nQ
defcription* there is jio other difference
than that it is much larger, and its hair
blacker and finer than ours, a circumftance
fatal to them, as expofing them more to
the purfuit of the fayages..
*
The Pole-cat, of which there are three
fpecies, is in great eftimatign among the
Canadian hunters, as the hair is darker,
more gjofly, and more filky than thofe in
Europe.
Even the Rat of Northr America is valu-
able for . its fkin ; but the two principal
onesv that are in the article of trade is the
Oppoflum and the Muik j many and ridi-
culous are the ftories which are propagated
relative to the female of the former, fuch
as,
THROUGH. A.M ERICA.
Z31
among othi;s, that of the young ones get-
ting into the belly again througbiihe teats,
the fadt ^is this, .uhder its belly ihcre
is aloofe (kin,, with a fmall aperture in
the center, and this {he can expand or
deprefs at will; if purfued, andiheAhiks
her young are in danger, fhe puts them
into this x bag, and runs away with them up
a tree. Another Angular inftanfce of faga-
city in this animal, which is feldom men-
tioned; is, that if purfuedby other animals,
fuch as the Tiger, Mountain-cat, &c. that
can mount trees, it goes to the extremity
of a bough, andfufpends itfelf by its tail*
The fkin of the Muik-rrat is employed for
the fame purpofes as the Beaver, of which
he feems to be a diminutive ; but its moft
intrinfic value is for that predominant and
powerful perfume it produces, and which
is called after this animal.
The Ermine is about the fizeof afquirrel,
but not fo long, has the fame lively eyes,
Q^4 keen
232 INTERIOR TRAVELS
look, and his motions are fo quick, that
the eye can fcarcely follow them, it has a
long bufhy tail, which at the tip is as black
as jet; what enables me to give you fo
cxaft a defcription of this .little animal is,
that die daughter of the gentleman at
whofe houfe I lodge, has one in her poffef-
iion ; indeed it is the fafhidn for the young
ladies to keep them, as ours do fquirrels.
One thing not a little extraordinary of this
animal, is, that all the winter it was white
as fnow, and the other day, when admir-
ing it, I expreffed a furprize in perceiving
it had a yellow tint, when the young lady
faid, Abl Monfieur i au milieu de Yeti deft
jaune comme d'or. This little animal is
reckoned one of the beauties of Canada,
for though the fable is fmaller, it is not fo
common.
The Martin, whofe fkin is the moft va-
1 uable, is only to be met with in the center
of the forefts, far from any habitation,
and
THROUGH AMERICA. 233
and although fo fmall an animal, is a beaft
of prey, living entirely upon birds. It is ,
but a foot and a half long, yet leaves a
print in the fhow, which appears to be
the footftep of a larger animal, occafioned
by its jumping along and giving the marks .
of both feet together: their fur is much
efteemed, but is inferior to that fpecies
which are called fables, whofe Ikins are
of a fhining black. Thofe of the Martin
encreafe im value from the various dyes,
the deeper the tint the more valuable, and
they gradually encreafe from a light brown
to the deep glofly black of the fable. The
Martins feldom more than once in two or
three years quit their receffes in thefc im-
penetrable woods, and when they do,< the
Canadians take it as a fign of a good .win-
ter, iipagining there will be great quanti-
ties of fnow, and confequently good fport
in deftroying them.
The
*34 INTERIOR TRAVFXf
The Wild-cat of Canada is reckoned
much fjnaller than thofe upon the northern
continent of Europe, . and is the fame kind
of animal that was called by the ancients
the Lynx, of which an erroneous opinion
has ever prevailed araongft the vulgar,
that it is poflefled of the power. of :pien>
ing to death with its eyes whatever it def-
tines for its prey, as nature had deprived it
of the faculties of hearing and fmtelling at
a diftance, which miftaken notion mull
have arifen from this fimpl$ caufe, that as
this animal lives upon what game it can
catch, it will purfue it to the very tops of
the talleft trees, and nature having en-
dowed it with a quicker fight than moft
other animals, whatever it puriuea, though
of. ever fo fmall a nature, it neVer lofes
fieht of, let the foliage of the trees be ever
fo thick. The flefh of this animal is very
white, and faid to be well flavored, burthe
Indians hunt it chiefly for its fkin, the
hair of it being long, and of a fine light
grey,
THROUGH AD4^JUCA. 235
grey, but not fo valuable ^s that of the
foy. - .\
This animal, - like other natives of the
frozen climates, whefe mature produce
but few vegetables, is carniverous.
r
Befides the finall furs, Canada fupplies
England with, the fkins of the Stag, Deer,
Roebuck, the Caribou and the Elk, the
latter of which is fuppofed to be the ori-
ginal of all thefe fpecies. All thefe animals
are hunted by the Canadians, but the chace
of the Bear the favages have referred to
themfelves, and which is their favorite
fport • it feems beft adapted to their war-
like manners, ftrength and bravery, and
efpecially as thofe animals fupply raoft of
their wants.
- Fearful left you may grow tired of this
heavy detail of wild beafts, I (hall conclude
this, referving to my next the defcription
of
t
/
I
236 INTERIOR TRAVELS
of the only two that are worthy of notice,
the Bear and the Beaver, the latter of
which poffeflibs all the friendly difpofitions,
divefted of all the vices and misfortunes
that await us, and which debars us from
«
the true and real pleafupes arifing from the
friendly and fweet intercourfe that fhould
fubfift between man and man.
Yours, &c.
LET.
THROUGH AMERICA,
/ *
?37
t r"
L E T T E R
XXII.
Mentrtal, J tint pi,- I77?v
* S # h •
MY DEAR FRIEND,
OPPORTUNITIES almoft dailyqcciir r
ing, I am happy to embrace them,
during the little time I have to remain in
this city ; when I quit it, you will think
me very remifs in addreffing yoii. Let me
fincerely allure you, although there will be
no regular conveyance, I fhall embrace
every opportunity that offers.
As in my laft I mentioned to you that
the favages were fupplied with moil of
their wants from the Bear; feeding upon
its
ijS INTEfelOR tftAVfcLS
its flefh, rubbing themfelves with its
greafe, and cloathing themfelves with its
Ikin, it may not be amifs to give you fomc
little account of this animal, and the fin-
gular method they have of destroying them.
As no doubt you muft have feen many
of theft* in Eftglarid, I fhall only give you
an account of fome of its particularities*
r *••■ •
This animal is rather fhy than fierce, and
t r
will feldom attack a- man^ on the contrary,
they* will fly at the fight of him, and a dog
wilt driVe them a great way. The only
tH*&*14ey are dangerous is after having been
woutoied, when they quit the hollow trees
they have rfefided in all the winter,, and at
tha4iffie of rutting j which is in the month
of July - y they are then fo fierce and ill-tem-
pered, the effefts of jealoufy, that they are
extremely dangerous to meet wfrfr. "At this
feafori t3iey grow very lean; and their flefh
ha&ib Sifagrecatifea relirfi, that the Indians,
whole
^ofCfl^nachs-aSK' aa&e of ffie c moft de-
lka«e,^ill' nc* teu<& : % "Who c&tid con-
ceive that an amitfa&r fe ' iiitfovely in its ap-
peaf ance, lh©M<f lii tlielpace of one inonth,
grow leaner by the v beWe pafjion\ than after
an abftinence of fix months.
* ^ _ *•*
But the feafon over,- he recovers his for-
• 9
mer em&onpoznt, which he is greatly affrfted
in regaining by die great quantity of fruits
the woods abound'with, and of which he
is extremely greedy^; grapes he is particu-
larly fond of, climbing ^ter them up tlie
moft lofty trees. After he has fed for fome
time on fruits, his fldh'becomes delicious,
and continues fo till fpring.
It is furprizing enough that this animal,
although provided with fo warirTa fur,
, •« -.
and not of the nlCft delicate appearance,
fhould ' take more precautions than any
• , < « ■ *♦ • #•♦-*•» »»•
other to preferve * jtfelf from the ' cold^
(this may ferve as a* Ieflbh from - nature,*
not
240 .INTERIOR TRAVELS
not to form our judgment of things by-
appearance, fince every one is the beft
judge of his own wants i) for which pur-
]5ofe, when the winter fcts in, he climbs
up the hollow rotten trunk of anrold tree,
flopping up the entrance with pine, branches,
by which means he is fheltered from all
inclemencies of the weather, and when
once lodged, he feldom or ever quits his
apartment during the winter, which is the
more lingular, it being certain that he lays :
up no manner of provifion, and that he
muft require fome nourifhment. That her
requires little food is natural to fuppofe,
as at the end of autumn he is very fat,
takes no exercife, and almoft always fleeps,
and, therefore, lofing little by perfpiration,
has very feldom occafion to go abroad
in queft of it, and when he does, haftens
back to his retreat. A ridiculous notion
' ■ ' * ' • *
is gone abroad into the world, that during
the winter the fole nourifhment of the Bear
is licking its pa\ys, which, ho doubt, arofe
" from
Through americav 241
from the amazing long titne thefe animals
can, either through the nourifhmertt they
receive from fleep, or idlenefs, go without
food. Yet that fuch an idea fhould pre-
vail, I am not furprized, as there has been
an inftance of one that was chained for a
whole winter without either food or drink,
and at the end of fix months was found
as fat as when firft caught.
The feafon for hunting the bear is in
winter, when the Indians force him from
his habitation by fetting fire to the pine
branches that he has drawn together at
the bottom of the hollow tree, when the
fmoke afcending up the trunk, drives
him from his late comfortable habitation,
from which he no fooner defcends, than
they kill him. The Indians now only
deftroy them to anfwer their own wants,
as formerly they ufed to do for the pur-
pofe of difpofing of their fkins to the tra-
ders ; but it was no fooner underftood that
Vol. I. R Canada
*42 INTERIOR TRAVELS
Canada was ftored with Beavers, than the
favages, urged on by a more lucrative in-
tereft, dire&ed their war againft an animal
the moft harmlefs, who molefts no living
creature, and is neither carniverous nor
fanguinary. This is, I am forry to obferve,
become an object of man's moft earneft
purfuit, and the one that the favages hunt
after with the greateft eagernefs and cruelty;
a cirortnftance entirely owing to the un-
merciful rapacioufnefs which luxury has
made neceffaryin {kins, for all the poliftied
nations of Europe,
This animal is by nature adapted for
focial life, being endowed with an inftin6fc
in the prefervation and propagation of its
fpecies j it is generally about three or four
feet long, moftly weighing from forty to
fixty pounds ; the hinder feet are webbed,
which enables it to fwim, and in the fore
feet the toes are divided ; its tail is oval,
very flat, and covered with fcales ; the head
refembles
TH ROUGH AMERICA. 243
refembles that of a rat, in which are four
very fharp teeth, with thefe it will gnaw
through trees of a great circumference.
This animal is divefted of turbulent
paflions, without a defire of doing injury
to any one, free from craft, fcarcely de-
fending itfelf, unlefs it lives in fociety $ it
never bites, except when caught, and as
nature has not fupplied it with any wea-
pons of defence, by a natural inftindl as
It were, it forms foeieties, arid has va-
rious contrivances to fecure its eafe, with-
out fighting; and to live without com-
mitting, or fuffering an injury; although
this peaceable, and you may fay almoft
tame animal, enters into fociety, it is ne-
verthelefs independent, every want being
fupplied by ;itfelf , and therefore it is a flave
to none. % It, will not ferve, nor does it pre-
tend to command, every care feems dire&ed
by an inftinft, that at the fame time, as it
labors for the general good, it lives for itfelf
R 2 alone-
244 INTERIOR TRAVELS
alone. To learn the nature of the focieties
of thefe animals, as it was related to me
by my landlord, may afford you the fame
entertainment it did me.
In the month of June or July, they
affemble from all quarters, to the num-
ber of two or three hundred, near foirie
lake or pool of water, to build their
habitations againft winter, the conftruc-
tion of which, from the complication and
manner of difpofing the materials, one
would be led to imagine to be beyond the
capacity of any one but an intelligent
being, and efpecially in their conftru£fcing
of dams, when they cannot meet with a
lake or pool \ in this cafe they fix upon
fome river, when the firft of their labour
is to make a dam, which they generally
do in the fhalloweft part of the ftream,
for that purpofe felling trees with the four
fharp teeth that I have* already defcribed;
five or fix of them will gnaw a large
one
THROUGH AMERICA. 245
one through, and to mark to you the
wonderful fagacity of thefe induftrious .
brutes, they contrive it fo that it always
falls in the water : having laid thisfoun-
dation, they fell fmaller trees, which they
roll to this great one, but what appears the
moft wonderful is, the manner they fink
the piles in the water, to prevent the
ftream's carrying away the trees, they lay
acrofs. Their contrivance is this, with
their nails they dig a hole in the ground,
oV at the bottom of the water, with their
«
teeth they reft the ftake againft the bank
of the river, or againft the tree that lies
acrofs, and with their feet they raife the
ftake and fink it with the {harp end (which
thefe fenfible animals make to it) in the
hole that they have made, where it ftands
up; and to render thefe ftakes or piles
more fecure, they interweave branches of
fmall trees, and with their tails wiik up
a kind of mortar with clay, and fill the
vacant fpace of the interwoven branches.
R 3 After
246 INTERIOR TRAVELS
After this work is finifhed by the body at
large, each one confiders of fome lodging
for himfelf ; an hut being built upon piles
on the fides of the Lake, capable of con-
taining from two or three to ten or fifteen,
(for they divide themfelves into compa-
nies, and build thefe huts accordingly 3 )
which are formed with walls and parti-
tions of about two feet thick and as many
in height, arched oyer, and the whole
fo plaiftered with clay, that the fmsdleft
breath of air cannot penetrate through
them; each apartment is made large
enough to contain two, a male and fe-
male; each hut has two entrances, one
towards the land, and the other on the
fide towards the ftream, the former for
them to go into the woods to fetch pro-
vifions, and the latter to efcape from their
enemy, that is to fay man, the deftroyer
of cities and commonwealths. The infide of
their apartments has no other furniture
than the flooring of grafs covered with
the
THROUGH AMERICA. 247
the boughs of the fir, and thefe animals
are fo cleanly, that no filth of. any kind
is ever feen in thefe apartments.
In each hut there are ftore houfes pro-
portionate to the number of its inhabitants;
every one knows its own, and never fteals
from his neighbour. Each party, that is to
fay, the male and female, live in their own
habitations; they have no jealoufies or
quarrels j the provifions of the community
are collefted and expended without any
conteft, and reft fatisfied with the fimple
food that their labors procure them. The
only pafiion they have is that of conjugal
afFe&ion, wherein a moft excellent ex-
ample is held forth to that all-wife and all-
fufficient man, who is led away by every
guft of paffion and* vanity.
Two of thefe animals, in the courfe of
their labours in the fummer months, match
together, unite by inclination and re-
R 4 ciprocal
248 .INTERIOR TRAVELS
ciprocal choice, and agree to pafs the
winter, and like too many couple who
haftily enter into matrimony with equally
as good motives, but forgetting what
/hould make the happinefs lafting, that
of laying up a ftock to guard againft an
inclement feafon.
The happy couple retire to their hut
about the end of autumn, which has been
obferved to be no lefs favorable to love than
fpring ; for if the feafon of flowers invites
the feathered tribe to propagate in the
woods, the feafon of fruits as powerfully
excites the inhabitants of the earth in the
reproduction of their fpecies j befides, as
winter gives leifure for amorous purfuits,
it compenfates for the advantages of other
feafons. *
I am this moment told that the pacquet
is going to fail, and muft therefore defer
a further account of this wonderful and
furprizing
THROUGH AMERICA. 249
lurprizing animal, from. whom fo many
leflbns of induftry and morality may be
drawn, till another opportunity, and con-
clude with afluring you of my beft wifhes
for your happinefs and profperity, and that
I remain
Yours, &c.
LET-
25O . INTERIOR TRAVELS
LETTER XXIII.
Montreal, Junt %th, 1777.
MY DEAR FRIEND,
I SEND this by our friend Captain F.
who is going poft to Quebec, from
which place he will fail immediately, and
as the navigation from this city to Quebec
is much delayed by the various currents
and other caufes in the river, he will be
there as foon, if not fooner, than the
fliip I fent my firft by, in which cafe you
may receive this before the other, which
may greatly bewilder you. I therefore
fhall juft hint to you, this is the conclu-
fion of the hiftory of the Beaver.
If
THROUGH AMERICA. 2JI
If my recolle&ion docs not deceive me,
I left off in my laft at defcribing his love,
that univerfal paflion of nature, which the
Beaver feems to enjoy in the conjugal ftate,
comparatively much happier than man-
kind ; for when they couple and enter their
huts, they never quit each other, confe-
crating their whole time to love, from
which neither labor nor any other objeft
can divert them.
If by chance a fun-fhiny day fhould
happen to enliven the gloomy melancholy
of the feafon, the happy couple leave their
huts to walk on the borders of the Lake,
regaling themfelves with fome frefh bark,
and breathing the falutary exhalations of
the earth. At the conclufion of the win-
ter, the mother brings forth the endearing
pledges of their affe&ion, while the father
ranges the woods, allured by the fweets of
the fpring, leaving to his little family
that portion of room which he took up in
his
252 INTERIOR TRAVELS
his narrow cell. The Beaver generally
produces two or three, which the mother
fuckles, nurfes and trains up, for when the
father is abfent, fhe takes out the young
ones, in her excurfions for cray and other
fi(h, and green bark to recruit her own
itrength and to feed her young, till the
feafon of labor returns ; for although thefe
animals are fo induftrious as to build them-
felves habitations that would laft them a
century, they are obliged to rebuild them
every year, as the firft thing the traders do
when they meet with any of their works,
is 'to breakdown their cabins and the dam,
together with their dyke.
# There are various methods of taking and
deftroying thefe animals, by draining the
water from their dykes, and fometimes by
fnares ; they are very feldom fliot at, for
unlefs killed on the fpot, they are loft to
the huntfman, by plunging into the water
wounded, when they fink to the bottom
and
THROUGH AMERICA. 253
and never rife. The rpoft certain and ge-,
neral mode of catching them is by fetting
traps in the woods, where they perceive
them to have been eating the bark of the
young trees; they bait thefe traps with
frefh flips of wood, which the Beaver no
iboner touches^ than a great weight falls
and crufhes its loins, when the huntfman,
who lies concealed near the fpot, haftens
to kill it.
. No doubt but by this time. you are
heartily tired with fo long a detail of this
animal ; but if I have deviated from the
common path of defcription, I can only
fay it has proceeded from thefe two caufes,
that I cannot fufficiently admire the many
virtues it poffeffes, diverted of all manner
of vice, and have been loft in the contem-
plation of that Divine Being, who formed
it with all thefe natural endowments.
You
254 INTERIOR TRAVELS
You muft pardon my making a compa-
nion between the focieties of thefe animals
and thofe of a convent. If happinefs may
be faid to dwell in both communities, it
muft be allowed to be by very oppofite
means. The happinefs of one confifts in
following the di&ates of nature; in the
other, nature, the fweets of focial love, and
the laws of our creation, are totally de-
ftroyed ! The inftitution of the fociety of
the Beaver, feems folely to propagate its
fpecies 5 the other to annihilate it. How
many, who might have dignified nature
under the charafter of a fond mother and
an afFe&ionate wife, are loft to the world
and to themfelves ! — they cannot help feel-
ing tender emotions, and, in the bitternefs
of mifeiy, execrate that tyrant cuftom,
which has torn them from the embraces of
happinefs and chained them in cells, a prey
to affe&ions hopelefs and infatiable — the
idea carries me beyond myfelf .
What
THROUGH AMERICA. 255
What will not the feelings of humanity
exclaim, when it confiders that thefe
gloomy and ferocious inftitutions are waft-
ing away in all parts of Europe ! Inftitu-
tions not only injurious but inhuman,
which, under the abfurd and ridiculous
notion of making men equal to angels,
robs health of its vigor, and beauty of its
reward,
I am moft agreeably interrupted in my
ferious refle&ions, by a vifit from our
friend S— ■, who* is juft arrived from New-
York 5 he was taken prifoner in the courfe
of laft fummer, by a notorious fellow of
the name of Whitcomb, the fame man who
fhot Brigadier General Gordon, the parti-
culars of which I fhall inform you in my
next.
Yours, &c.
LET-
256 INTERIOR TRAVELS
LETTER XXIV.
Montreal, Jpne 1 ztb, 1777.
MY DEAR FRIEND,
T N my laft I mentioned to you the name
^ of one Whitcomb, a nltive of Connec-
ticut, and a great partizan of the Ameri-
cans, who, after the defeat upon the Lakes,
offered his fervice to venture through the
woods, and bring in prifoner an Englifh
officer, for which purpofe he ftationed him-,
felf among the thickeft copfes that are be-
tween La Praire and St. John's. The firft
officer who happened to pafs him was
Brigadier General Gordon ; he was mount-
ed on a fpirited horfe, and Whitcomb
thinking
/
THROUGH AMERICA. 2$7
thinking there was little probability of
feizing him, fired at and wounded him in
the fhoulder. The General immediately
rode as faft as he could to the camp at St.
John's, which he had but juft reached,
when with lofs of blood and fatigue, he
fell from his horfe; fome foldiers, took
him up and carried him to the hofpital,
where, after his wound was drefled, and
he was a little at eafe, he related the cii v
cumftance, which being immediately made
known to General Carleton, a party of
Indians were ferit out to fcour the vfroods,
and fearch for Whitcomb, but in vain, as
he haftehed back to Ticonderbga. General
Carleton, Ijowever^ imagining he might bfe
lurking about the woods, or fecreted in
the houfe of fome difaffe&ed Canadian,
iffued out a proclamation among the ihha-
bitants, offering a reward of fifty guineas
to any one that would bring Whitcomb^
alive or dead, to the camp.
Vol. I. S A ftw
258 INTERIOR TRAVELS
A few dtfys after this General Gordon
died of his wound, in whofe death we fin-
cerely lamented the lofs of a brave and ex-
perienced officer.
When Whitcomb returned to Ticonde-
roga, and; informed the General who com-
manded there, that although he could not
take an officer prifoner, he believed he had
mortally wqunded one, the General ex-
preffed his . difapprobation in the highefl
terms, and was fo much difpleafed at the
tranfadtion, that Whitcomb, in order to
effect a reconciliation, offered his fervice to
go again, profeffing he would forfeit his
life, if he did not return with a prifoner.
• » V
He accordingly, with two other men,
proceeded down Lake Champlain, in a canoe,
to a fmall creek, where they fecreted it,
and repaired to the woods, to the fame
fpot where Whitcomb had ftationed himfelf
before j the two men lay concealed a little
way
THROUGH AMERICA. 2$<}
way in the wood, whijft he Ikulked about
the borders of it.
The regiment of which our friend S— -
is Quarter-mafter, having occafion for
fome ftores from Montreal, he was going
from the campt at St. John's to procure
them \ he was advifed not to go this road,
but by way of Chamhlie^ on account of
the late accident^ but you know him to. be
a man of great bravery and perfonal cou-
rage, joined with uncommon ftrengthj
refolving not to go fo many miles out of
his road for any Whitcomb whatever, he
jocofely added, that he fhould be very glad
to meet with him, as he was fure he fhould
get the reward; in this, however* he was
greatly miftaken, his reward being noother
than that of being taken prifoner himfelf.
Previous to his fetting out he took every
precaution, having not only loaded his
fufee, but charged a brace of piftols -, when
,82 he^
*6o Interior travels
he came agar to the ' woods I have already
fcribed, he was very cautious, but in an
inftant, Whitcomb and the two men he
had with him fprung from behind a thick
buffi, and felled him before he could make
the feaft refinance ; they then took from
him hig fofee and piftols, tied his arms be-
hind him with ropes, and blind-folded him.
It was three days before they reached the
canoe that had been concealed, during which
time they had but very (banty fare; a few
hard bifcuits ferved to allay hunger, while
the fruit of the woods was a luxury ! —
When Whitcomb had marched him to fuch
a diftance as he thought he could not make
his efcape, were he at liberty, through fear*
ef lofing himfelf, for the greater eafe on
his own part, and to facilitate their march,
they untied his hands, and took the cloth
from his eyes. Only pidhire to yourfelf
what muft have been his feelings, at feeing
himfelf in the midft of a thick wood, j(ur-
► rounded
THROUGH AMERICA. 26 1
> » •
rounded by three defperate fellows, and
uncertain as to their intentions I
At night, wh,en they had partaken of
their fcanty pittance, two out of the thre$
ufed to fleep> whilft the othef kept watch*
The fir ft night he flept through fatigue j
on; the iecond, as you may naturally fept
pafe, from his great anxiety of mind, he
could- not clofe his eyes, in the middle of
which, ah opportunity occurred whereby
he could have effected hi& efe$pe* for tht
man whofe wfttih it, wafr, fell faft afleejx
He has fince told ftre how his mind Waver*,
ed for a length <rf time, what meafures tb
purfue; he could not bear the idw of put>
tihg them to death, though juftififed by the
Wjles of watf : if he efoaped) fbom thenr,
they might in all probability: retake and
ill-treat him. The great hazard of all,
which determined him to abide by his fete
was, that by being fo many miles in a traft
of wood, where he could hot tell what
S 3 dire&iofll
262 * INTERIOR TRAVELS
dire£tion to take -(havirig been blind-folded
when he entered it) he might poffibly wan*
der up and down till he perifhed with hun-
ger. In this reftlefs ftate, he remained
till day-break, when they refumed their
march, and in the evening came to the
creek where the canoe was concealed ; they
then fecured him again, put him in the
canoe, and proceeded up the lake to Ti-
conderoga, tf here they amved early the
next morning. When' they landed him
he was again blind-folded, that- 'he might
not fee their works, and thus conduced to
the General, whofe only iriotive for en-
deavouring to get an officer was, either by
threats or intreaties, to gain information
relative to our army. In this, however, he
was greatly difappointed, and as he could
»ot obtain the leaft intelligence from our
/riend, he ordered him as prifoner of war
upon his parole, to % fome of the interior
towns, from which place, as I informed
you in my laft, he is juft returned, as
hearty
THROUGH AMERICA.
263
hearty and well as ever. I ftiould not have
dwelt fo long on this fubjeft, but knowing
you have his welfare fo much at heart, that
you feel yourfelf interefted in whatever
concerns him. p T T 1 vT
I fhall now conclude, but before I do fo,
« *
let me congratulate you on the recovery of
your health, after fo alarming an illnefs.
Good health alone fweetens-life, and that
you may long enjoy it, both for your own,
fake and that of your friends, is the ardent
wilh of
< r
I ", y
Yours, : &c
■ # w , .
S 4
LET-
264 INTERIOR T*AYEL^
LETTER XXV.
Camp at S& £<&»'/* Jyne \tfb> 1777,
J *
MV BEAR FRIEND,
I HA E> fcay cely finrflaed my laft, when
I received orders to march to this* place*
and am now entering upon the hurry and
buftle of an aftive campaign. You muft
not accufe me now of inattention, if you
fliould not hear from me fo frequently.
As I obferved in a former letter, it was
the general opinion the King's troops
would not be prevented palling Lake Cham-
plain, but wait our arrival at Ticonderoga ;
in thit Cafe the operations of the campaign
will
TI&RQUGJH Al&ERIQ*. 365
, will C9<6ffO?nce at Crpwn Poijit. It wqjuJ4
be doing great injuftice to thpfe wh& hx&
been ftationed at this garrifon during the
winter, if I omitted to mention, their grieat
exertions in repairing, augiwnling^ and
rendering fit fop imnuediate fenricQ tba
* batteaux, gun-ho^ts, and armed, ve&eb:
The other parts of the army fo^ye-been
equally as indu&rious in eftabli&ing/ tna>-
gazines at Montreal, Sorely and. €ham^
hUty which nuift be efib&od during the
£f oft, not only a* the ^conveyance ' ifc eafier
at that time, but- op account of thfc roads,
which, by the running- and melting of t&e
ihow, are generally hnpaflfcble for fome
mopths* a v .
' V ^.
By all the accounts that can be collefted,
the Americans, ace in great fbrc&a$ Ticen-
deroga, nearly to the. amount of 12,000*
qpd a confiderabje number occupy Lafoe
Geor^ fuftained by a ^great naval power;
withvavieWj no dqpbf, qf fecurijig theifr
retreat
266 INTERIOR TRAVELS
in cafe they fhould be obliged to abandon
Ticonderoga.
Should the navigation of Lake Champlain
be fecured by the fuperiority of our naval
force, the advanced corps, under the com-
mand of General Frafer, with a large body *
of lavages and Canadians, for fcouts and
out-works, and the beft of our engineers
and artificers, are to take poffeffion of
Crown Point, and to fortify it. The in-
tention! is with a view: to prevent infult
from the enemy, during. the time neceflaiy
for colle&ing ftores, forming magazines
and fortifying polls, all which muft be ac-
complifhed previous to our proceeding in
force to lay fiege to Ticonderoga.
This brigade .being ftationed at Crown
Point, as a check on the enemy, the, reft of
the army are to. be employed in forwarding
the convoys and tranfports of provisions,
removing artillery, preparing fafcines and
other
THROUGH AMERICA, , 267
other neceffaries for artillery operations;
and to commence the liege ; and that the
enemy during that period may not tfeft in
tranquillity, corps of favages, fupp6rted by
detachfneritsof the light infantry;, aye to
keep them in continual alarm within- their
Grorks, at the fame time to cover xecon^-
noatering parties, both of general bfficeri*
and engineers, arid to obtain the beft in-
telligenfccj of /their : iflraiigth, pofition andt
defign v ,:Fram\the.great preparations that
hajfejboea jmade during the winter, and by
the vigbimifciexertioi} of the troops, iwhi>
are, ia g»*t ibtalth an*} fpirits, it may Tea-
fohably fo& expe&ed that * the reduction o£
Ticoridei$>ga will be early in the furamcr,
UrileTsifomierinirfortune, ..Human prudence
cartadtifolBfe^ fftould prevent it, although
it is the general opinion Jfr will be;wiai3ffily
contefted* and .that. ;thfere will be .much
blood-ibecb The Americans, when they
drew the fword, muft haYfc'fore&en a bloody
conteft>. and; expe&ed all the horrors of a
war,
268 INTERIOR TRAVELS
war*, carried on as it werfc in their own
bqipms, laying wafte their fields of har-
yeft; ddtroying every comfort,; ftjfci intro-
ducing every mifery mankind is capable of
devifing. But had certain peffcns, who
were a&uated by no other motives »than a
welfare and profperity to both countries}
dtre&ed their refbhres, they would have
adyifed a peaceable fubmiffion to r Ae Mo-
ther Country, and eafily prevented aH the
horrors of a civil war. America, from
a number or aggregate rorttanate circum-*
fiances,; by flow degrees, had arifen to a
ftate of great profperity, anflj the power
that (he had fixed by that pirefperity, bid*
fair to be of fome duration r yet, in iny
opinion, not to filch adegreeas tocetfbiblifh
her independence* her preferit (liftneffed
fitoation, without fbme ' other favorable
circumftance, muft inevitably prevent die
execution of that' idea. I am ftiHy per*
fuaded* in my^ own mind, had. they but
referved their ideas -of independency for
half
THROUGH AMERICA* 269
half a century longer, from their increafe
of population and wealth, they would have
fixed it without much difficulty, or even
the affiftance of any other power, and thus
become the firft nation in the world. In
the prefent day, if they attain their boafted
end, it muft be by the arm of fome
nation, to whom, for want of refburces to
defray the expences of their alliance, fhe
will be in continual broils and difputes,
Which may perhaps finally terminate in a
total fu bje6tion; and that abjeft flavery they
fo ridkuloufly pretend to dread from us.
Should this be the cafe, fhe will regret the
lofe of that prote&ion from the Mother
Country, fhe is now treating with fo much
ingratitude. Leaving you to your own re-
marks, for no doubt you will fay, " a foldier
and a politician !" I fhall divert your atten-
tion from the cabals of mankind, to the
wonderful produ&ions of nature, in de-
ferring to you a little animal that was
brought me lately, called a flying-fquirreL
This
2JO INTERIOR TRAVELS -
This animal takes its name from being
provided with a fkin, or membrane, which
adheres to each fide, about the breadth of
three inches, extending from its hind to
fore feet, where it is conne&ed by a bony
articulation * it expands this membrane like
a fail, by which it is enabled to fly from one
tree to another, at a great diftance. Moft
fquirrels will jump from tree to tree, when
3
contiguous, but this animal will fly an in-
credible way. Its (kin is very foft, and
of a beautiful dark grey, with eyes large,
black, and very prominent ; it fomewhat
differs from the other fquirrels in its tafte,
caring little for nuts, the chief and fa-
vorite food being the frefh tops of the
birch. This little animal makes its bed in
a very curious manner, of the mofs of the
lame tree, in which it lies as it were
buried, feldom ftirring from thence in the
day time, . unlefs difturbed. I came into
pofTeflion of it from a little drum-boy's
going up a tree after a bird's neft, who
perceiving
THROUGH AMERICA. 2JI
perceiving it lay* in that dormitory ftate,
feized it and brought it to me, for he
had heard that I was making a collec-
tion of natural curiofities. By the bye, I
beg you will inform me, in your next, if
you received fafe the little colledlion I fent
you from Montreal. I have added this
curious animal, and one of another fpecies,
called the ground fquirrel, which is a little
larger than a mpufe, and moft beautifully
(potted like a fawn, to the colle&ion I am
now making, and hope they will be confi-
dered as tokens of friendfhip from
Yours, &c.
LET-
%J2 INTERIOR TRAVELS
LETTER XXVI.
MY DEAR FRIEND,
T TlyTE have proceeded thus far, and,
* * from all appearance, fhall tjaverfe
the remainder of our way on the Lake,
without meeting any oppofition from the
erifemy, their defign being, as I before
mentioned to you, todifputeTiconderoga;
the intelligence from different fpies and
deferters fully confirm us in this opi-
nion, who report,. Jfchat they have labored
hard to ftrengthen, and mean to . difpute
it moft vigoroufly. They are now build-
ing row-gallies at Fort George, for the
defence
^Ifffr \ 7"* *3> '777- 1
upon Lake Champlain, \ J J ' ' " \
trittOUGH AMERICA* *73
defence of that lake, and fortifying the
road to Skenefborough. •
It feems the Congrefs have configned to
the four New England provinces, as they
are excellent axe-men, and very expeditious
in felling of trees, the tafk of fupplyiflg
men and provifion to oppofe the progrefs
of our forces, which they have undertaken,
upon condition of being exeftipt fromfup<*
plying General Wafhington's army. -If x
that really is the pafe, we fhafll have bufi**
nefs enough upon our hands, having four
of the moft powerful and rebellious pro-
vinces to deal with ; they have this advan-
tage too* that upon their frontiers, fhould
any difafter befall them, it can be fo eafily
recruited, both as to men and provifions.
Having proceeded thljs far up the lake,
I am enabled to give you fome account of
it, efpecially as* we have paffed the broadeft
part. There are many fmall iflands dif-
Vol. I. T perfed
274 INTERIOR TRAVELS
perfed in different parts, and where it is
wideft, you are not able to difeern the
oppofite fhore; there are feveral planta-
tions- on each fide, but they are more
numerous on the fouth, the north fide
being lofty toeky mountains. It abounds
with gteat quantities and variety of fi(h;
fturgeon, Wads bafs, mafquenongez, pike
of an incredible fize, and many others,
among Wtiich is a* cat-fifti, which is about
e^hteefi inches long, of a brownifh caft >
without fcafes> having a large round head,
s
refembling that of a cat's, from which it
derives its name ; they have on their header
protuberances fimilar to the horns of i
fhail, and like them can elevate and de-
pfefs them at pleafure, and when fully
extended, are about two inches long ; if in
liberating one of thefe fifh from the hook,,
it ftrikes you with one of its horns, it
leaves an unaccountable and unpleafant
fenfation on the part afFe6led for two or
three days. Its fins are very bony and
flrong >
THROUGH AMERICA. 2J$
*
itronij, Kketkofeof aptereh, it commonly
weigh* aboat five of fix pounds , the
flefh is fat and lufcious, greatly refembl-
ing the flavor of an eel.
There are at this feafbn of the year pro-
digious flights of pigeons croffing the
lake, of a moft beautiful plumage, and i»
aftonifhing quantities.
Thefe are moft excellent eating, and
that you mtfy form fome idea as to their
number, at one of our encampments, the
men for one day wholly fofofifted on them ;
fatigued with their ffi&ht in croffing the
lake, they alight upon the firft branch they
can reach to, many are fb weary as to drop
in the water, and are eafily caught ; thoft
that alight upon a bough being unable to
fly again, the fotaiers knock down with
long poles.
T z Duri»g
276 INTERIOR TRAVEtS
During the flights of thefe pigeons,
which crofs this lake into Canada, and
are continually flying about in large flocks,
the Canadians find great amufement in
fhooting them, which they do after a very
Angular manner : in the day time they go
into the wdods, and make ladders by the
fide of the tall pines, which the pigeons
rooft on, and when it is dark they creep
foftly under and fire up this ladder, killing
them in great abundance - y they then ftrike
a light, and firing a knot of the pitch pine,
pick up thofe they have killed, and the
wounded ones that are unable to fly.-- *-
During the flights of thefe pigeons, which
generally laft three \veeks or a month, the
lower fort of Canadians ffioftly fubfift on
them
Now I am upon this fufcjeft, it reminds
me of what Monfieur Blonde aux was conti-
nually telling me of, le grand plaifir que
Jaurai-quand Y'eti commencera en tuant les
tourtes ;
THROUGH AMERICA. 277
tvurtes; adding, at the fame time, with
great pleafure, amufement que le Canadien
<aime beaucoupi However, as to the num-
bers he ufed always to join with this
obfervation, I generally thought my good
landlord was fetting <?ffhis country to great
advantage by dealing in the marvellous,
and fhould have been impreffed with that
idea, had I not been by ocular demonftra-
tion convinced to the contrary.
*
Not only at this encampment, but like-
wife at our former ones, we were under
the neceflity of clearing the thick under-
wood, and cutting down the fmall trees
before we could encamp, during which
time you are almoft devoured with the
mufquitos, that fwarm in great abundance,
and aire continually peftering you till the
fires are lighted, when the fmoke imme-
diately difperfes them.
T 3 In
278 INTERIOR TRAVELS
fa clearing the woods for our encamp-
raent at this place, a very favorite dog of
Lord Balcarres's, of the Newfoundland
breed, had a moft miraculous etfcape ; in
the very inftant that a heavy pine tree was
falling, the dog run acrofs, the tree fell,
and crufhed the poor creature into the
earth ; in this fituation every afliftance was
given, and when he was extricated, he
came jumping and fritting up to has mas-
ter, to the furprize of every one, who
naturally imagined the creature imift have
had all its bones broken, for when the
tree fell, it fhook the earth ibme diftance
round. The prefervation of the dog is
entirely attributed to the nature of the foil,
which was fandy and pliable. I need not,
add, after this event, how much his J^oid^
fhip prizes his favorite dog Batteaux.
Two miles up this river there is a law*-
mill, and a fall of water, where there is
moft excellent troui-fifhing. You who
are
1
THROUGH AMEiUCA. ^79
are fo fond of the diverfion of angling,
would find moft excellent fport in this
country. How I could wifti you here,
only for an hour, in that employment,
that I might have the happinefs, for that
little time, of converfing with you, to afk
you a thoufand queftipns, to hear of thofe
who are dear to me, to but 1 muft flop
9
my refle&ion and my wilhes together.
Yours, &c,
T 4 LET-
280 INTERIOR TRAVELS
LETTER XXVU.
Camp at River Bouquet, 1 «*
upon hake Champlain, \ J une 2 *' ^V*
MY DEAR FRIEND,
THIS river derives its name from a
Colonel Bouquet^ who commanded
an expedition againft the Indians, whilft
Canada was under the French Government,
as at this place he had a converfation with
them upon a treaty of peace.
It fhould feem as if it was the deftined
lpot to have intercourfe with Indians, for
yefterday General Burgoyne had a con-
ference with them j and as I am fenfible
how much our employing Indians in this
war
THROUGH AMERICA. 281
war is reprobated in England, I (hall give
you the General's fpeecfi, and their anfwer,
of which you may form your own opinion.
When the affembly were met, the General
thus ^ddreffed them, by means of an inter-
preter:
tt
Chiefs and Warriors >
cc The great King, otf r~ common father,
"'and the patron of all who feek and de-
<< ferve his prote&ion, lias confidered with
" fatisfaftion the general conduft of the
c< Indian tribes, from the beginning of
" the troubles in America. Too fagacious
c< and : too faithful to be deluded or cor-
<c rupted, they have obferved the violated
" rights of the parental power they love,
" and burned to vindicate them. A few
€< individuals alone, the refufe of a (mall
cc tribe, at the firft were led aftray: and
€C the mifreprefentations, the fpecious al-
*« lurements, the infidious promifes, and
" diverfified
cc
<€ diverfified plots in w&ch tfep rebels are
<c exercifed, mi ajl of which jfefrey wspjoyed
" for that effect h»w feryed <*nly in the
"end to whwjce $# feo&or <$f tfee tribes
v #n general fry df qjonArating to the
" world how few and how contemfrtjbk
<c are the apoftates ! It is a truth known
" to you all, thefe -pitiful eKamples except-
ed (and they have probably before this
day hid their faces in $iajjae) the collec-
u twc yoices and haads §>£ the Indian t-r &es
u wee this va£ cohteaent, ^e on ifee fide
"ofjuftice, of law, ^dthe-K&jg,
" The r<e$xaint you ha#f put up$n ypw
"i3efe»tD^nt in ^r^ytii\g d|£ J^g yp w
M father^ call to arms, the hftrclfift fS^of,
I am perfuaded, to which yew $$efkion
could have been put, is another J56^p»-
"fdkairiafle&ing njark of y our Mh»-
ence to that principle of fion&^&iga to
which you were always fond ta allude,
and
THROUGH AMERICA. $83
c< and which is the mutual joy and the
** duty of the parent to cheridjh.
" The clemency of your farther has ibeen
fc abufed, the offers of his mercy have
*' been defpifed, and his farther, patience
" w<ml4> in his jeyes, became ioulpafcle,
u in as much as it would wifchAold re-
M <dr$fe foam ihe iir^ofl: giievfons oppisffions
*in the province^ that .wer difgraced
" the ibiftpry of maaafcj^d. Jt therefore
* c ceinainsffor me, the iGararal jof one of
cc his Majefty's armies, and in this /council
" his rqprdfentatiffe, to felcafc you faom
" thofe bonds which your obedience im-
** ^ofed^Warrioscs npew are freeb^gto forth
" in might and valor t£ yopr kqu&^&b&c
" at the common enemies of Great Britain
cc and Amcrica^rdiihn^aifijof public 0&der,
peace and h&ppioeft, deftroyers g£ cctoit-
mcrqe, parricides of ftate."
The
>
«
284 INTERIOR TRAVELS
%
The General then dire&ing their atten-
tions, by pointing to the officers, both
German and Britifh, that attended this
meeting, proceeded :
. " The circle round you, the chiefs of
" his Majefty's European forces, and of
the Princes his allies, efleem you as
brothers in the war; emulous in glory
andin friendfhip, we will endeavor re-
" ciprocaliy to give and to receive ex-
<c amples ; we know how to value, and
cc we will ftrive to imitate your prefever-
" ahce in enterprise and your conftancy,
" to- refift hunger, wearinefs and pain.
" Be it our tafk, from the di&ates of our
u religion, the laws of our warfare, and
%i the principles and intereft of our policy,
to regulate your paflions when they over-
bear, to point out where it is nobler to
" fpace than to revenge, to difcriminate
cc degrees of guilt, to fufpend the uplifted
cc ftroke, to chaftife and not to deftroy.
" This
THROUGH AMERICA,' 285*
" This war to you my friends is new;
cc upon all former occafions, in taking
<c the field, you held yourfelves authorized
<c . to deftroy wherever you came, becaufe
<c every where you found an enemy. The
c< cafe is now very different.
" The King has many faithful fubje&s
cc difperfed in the provinces, confequently
<c you have many brothers there, and thefe
<€ people are more to be pitied, that they
" are perfecuted or imprifoned wherever
" they are difcovered or fufpe£led, and to
diffemblej to a generous mind, is a yet'
more grievous punifhment.
cc Perfuaded that your magnanimity of
" chara6ter, joined to your principles of
- c affe&ion to the Ring, will give me fuller
cc controul over your minds, than the mili-
" tary rank with which I am inverted. I en-
« c join your moft ferious attention to fhe
" rules which I hereby proclaim for your
" invariable
286 INTERIOR TRAVELS
" invariable obfervation during th6 cam*
cc
paign
19
After anfwering, Eiow ! Etow I in their
language fignifying approbation, they ap-
peared to pay very great attention to the
interpreter, eager to catch the General's
inftrudtions.
" I positively forbid blood-(hed> when
" you are not oppofed in arms.
* Aged men, women, children and pri-
" loners, muft be held facred from the
c < knife or hatchet, even in the time of
" aftual conflift.
" You fhall receive compen&tion for
• 4 the prifoners you take, but you fhall
cc be called to account for fcalps.
u In conformity and indulgence of your
" cuftoms, which have affixed an idea, of
" honor
THROUGH AMERICA. 387
€t
hono* to fuch badges of viftory, you
fhall be allowed to take the fcalps of the
dedd, when killed by your fire and in
u fair opposition ; but on no account, or
u pretence, or fubtilty, or prevarication,
" are they to be taken from the wounded,
" or even dying -, and ftill lefs pardonable,
c ? if poffible, will it be held, to kill ntot in
€< that condkioft, on purpofe, and upon a
" foppofition that this proteftion to the
" wounded Would be thereby evaded,
■ " Bafe, lurking affaflins, incendiaries,
" ravagers and plunderers of the country,
* c to Whatever army they may belong, fhall
" be treated with lefs referve ; but the lati-
<c tude muft be given you by order, and I
" mulfc be the judge on the occafion.
tc Should the enemy, on their parts, dare
" to countenance a£ts of barbarity towards
" thofe who may fall into their hands, it
" ihall be your& alfo to retaliate : but till
"this
288 INTERIOR TRAVELS
cc
cc
cc
re
«c
cc
this feverity be thus compelled, bear im-
moveable in your hearts this folid maxim*
(it cannot be too deeply impreffed) that
the great eflential reward, the worthy
fervice of your alliance, the fincerity of
your zeal to the King, your father and
" never-failing proteftor, will be examined
* c and judged upon the teft only of your
<c fteady and uniform adherence to the
" orders and counfels of thofe to whom
" his Majefty has entrufted the dire&ion
" and honor of his arms."
4
\
After the General had finiflied his fpeech,
they all of them cried out, Etow! Etow!
Etow / and after remaining foirie little time
in confultation, an old Chief of the Iro-
quois rofe up, and made the following
anfwer :
" I ftand up in the name of all the na-
<c tions prefent to allure our father, that
" we have attentively liftened to his dif-
u courfe —
THROUGH AMERICA. 289
cc courfe — we receive you as our father,
" becaufe when you fpeak we hear the voice
" of our great father beyond the great lake.
" We rejoice in the approbation you have
" expreffed of our behaviour*
cc
CC
We have been tried and tempted by
the Boftoniajis; but we have loved our
cc father, and our hatchets have been
cc fharpened upon our affedtions.
cc In proof of the fincerity of our pro-
" feffions* our whole villages, able to go
€c to war, are come forth. The old and
" infirm, our infants and wives, alone re-
c< main at home.
" With one common aflent, we promife
<c a constant obedience to all you have
" ordered, and all you fhall order, and
cc may the father of days give you many,
" and fuccefs."
Vol. I. U After
•».
2gO INTERIOR TRAVELS
After the Chief of the Iroquois had
finifhed, they all as before cried out, Et&w!
Etowi Rtvw ! and the meeting broke up.
»
One of the General's Aid-de-Camps in*
formed me, that the General was highly
pleafed to find the Indians fo tradable,
hoping the eflential fervice to be expe6ted,
would be obtained in employing them.
It is through the friendftiip of Captain
fc^**^ wIiq took the fpeeches down, that
I am enabled to fend them to you.
Orders being given that the army is to
embark to-morrow at day-break, to pro-
ceed up the lake* and having many things
to adjuft, I hope you will pardon my mak-
ing a hafty conclufion, and remain,
»>.
Yours, &c.
LET-
THROUGH AMERICA. 29I
»
LETTER XXVIII.
Camp at Button-Mole- Bay, } «*
tylY DEAR FRIEND,
AFTER the meeting of the Indians
at river Bouquet \ the GeneraTorder-
ed them fome liquor, and they had a war-
dance, in which they throw themfelves in
various poftures, every now and then mak-
ing moft hideous yells 5 as to their appear-
ance, nothing more horrid can you paint
to your imagination, being drefTed in fuch
zaqutre manner, fome with the fkins of
bulls with the horns upon their heads,
others with a great quantity of feathers,
and ipany in a ftate of total njadity : there
U 2 was
2gZ itfTERIOtf TRAVELS
was one among them, at whofe modefty I
could not help fmiling, and who, rather
than be divefted of any covering, had tied
a blackbird before him. Joined to thefe
Arrange dreffes, and added to the grotefque
appearance, they 'paint their faces of va-
rious colors, with a view to infpire an ad-
ditional hoiyor. It is almofl: incredible to
think what a prodigious degree of conceit
and foppery reigns amongft the favages in
decorating their perfons, perhaps not in-
ferior to that by which alone fome of our
pretty fellows of the prefent age fo confpi-
cuoufly diftinguifh themfelves. The fol-
lowing ftriking inftance of it, feveral other
officers, as well as myfelf , were eye-witneffes
to, and it. afforded us no fmall entertain-
nient:
• In our way to their encampment, we
obferved a young Indian who was preparing
for the war-dance, feated under a wigwam,
with a fmall looking-glafs placed before
. > him,
THROUGH AMERICA. 293
him, and furrounded with feveral papers,
filled with different paints. At our flop-
ping to obferve him, he was at firft a little
difconcerted, and appeared difpleafed, but
foon after proceeded to adorn himfelf . He
firft fmeared his face with a little bear's
greafe, then rubbed in ibme vermillion,
then a little black, blue, and green paints,
and having viewed himfelf for fome time
in the glafs, in a rage he wipfd it all off,
and began again, but with no better fuc-
- cefs, ftill appearing difTatisfied. We went
on to the council, which lafted near two
hours, and on our return found the In-
dian in the fame pofition, and at the fame
employment, having nearly confumed all
^
his ftock of colors ! What a pity it is the
ladies in England, adepts in this art, have
not fuch a variety of tints to exercife their
genius with ! — in my mind, if they piuft
paint, the more ridiculous they appear,
the better.
U 3 Bear's
294 INTERIOR TRAVELS
Bear's greafc, indeed, would not be a
very delicate perfume, but no matter
if nature muft be patched up, it little fig-
nifies with what ! 1 could laugh at the
ftreaks on an Indian, but am ftruck with
contempt at the airs put on by your flirts,
from a penny-worth of carmine, and
touched with pity when^yfotfy would aflume
the glow of fifteen, through a falfe fhame,
Or a childifh want of admiration !
An Indian's idea of war confifts in never
fighting iii an open field, but upon fome
very extraordinary occaiion, for they con-
fider this method as unworthy an able
warrior, and as an affair in which fortune
governs, more than prudence or courage.
They are of efiential fervice in either
defending or invading % country, bang
extremely fkilful in the art of furprizing,
and watching the motions of an enemy.
On
THROUGH AMERICA. 295
On a fecret expedition they light no fire
to warm themfelves, nor prepare their
vi£hials, but fubfift merely on the mifer-
able pittance of fome of their meal mixed
with water ; they lie clofe to the ground
all day, and only march in the night;
while halting to reft and refrefh themfelves,
fcouts are fent out on every fide to recon-
noitre the country, and beat up every
place where they fufpe£t an enemy can lie
concealed. Two of the principal things
that enable them to find out their enemies,
is the fmoke of their fires, which they fmell
at a vaft diftance, and their tracks, in the
difcovery and diftinguifhing of which they
are poflefied of a fagacity equally aftonifti-
ing, for they will difcern by the footfteps,
that to us would appear extremely con-
fufed, nearly the number of men, and the
length of time fince they pafled ; this latter
circumftance was confirmed to me by an
officer, who has the fuperintending of
their tribes. Being out upon a fcout with
them
/
296 INTERIOR TRAVELS
them, they difcerned fome footfteps, when
the Indians told him that feven or eight
people had patted that way, and that only
two or three days fince: they had not
gone far, before they came to a plantation
with a houfe upon it, and as is the cuftom
with the Indians, ran up to it, and fur-
prized a fcouting party of the Americans,
confiding of feven, who had come there
the over-night.
In travelling through the woods, they
carefully obferve the trees, efpecially the
tall pines, which are for the moft part void
of foliage, on the branches that are expof-
ed to the north wind, the trunk on that
fide having the bark extremely rugged, by
which they afcertain the dire&ion to be
taken ; and for the more eafy difcovery of
their way back again, their tomahawks are
continually blazing the trees, which is
cutting off a fmall piece of the bark, and
as
THROUGH AMERICA; 297
as they march along they break down the
underwood.
» ♦
. Every Indian is a hunter, and their man-
ner of making war is of the fame nature,
only changing the objeft, by fkulking, fur-
prizing and killing thofe of their own
fpecies, inftead of the brute creation.
There is an indifputable neceflity of hav-
ing Indians, where Indians are employed
againft you, unlefs we had men enough of
our own trained up in that fort of military
exercife, as our European difcipline is of
little avail in the woods againft favages.
The reafon of my dwelling fo much on
the fubjeft of Indians, is becaufe I am fen-
fible how repugnant it is to the feelings
of an Englifhman to employ them, and
how much their cruelty and barbarity has
been exaggerated.
They
298 INTERIOR TRAVELS
They fight, as thofe oppofed againft them
fight ; we mull ufe the fame means as our
enemies, to be but on an equal footing
with them. I often reflect on that laconic
fpeech a great and gallant officer made to
his men, in the laft war, previous to their
going to battle, " there, my brave lads,
M there's the enemy, and, by God, if you
" do not kill them, they'll kill you."
There is a very great natural curiofity
upon Lake Champkini I am led to ima-
gine that it wis originally two lakes.
About the center of it the land contrafts
to fuch a degree, that it appears as if the
rock had been feparated by an earthquake 5
the paffage between what are now two
rocks, was but juft wide enough for our
large (hips to pafs through, and that only-
with a fair wind, on account oi the cur-
rent. You'll allow the place to be very
juftly named Split-Rock.
This
THROUGH AMERICA. 299
This bay, where our prefent encamp-
ment is, lies on the fouth fide of the lake,
and derives its name from the pebbles, of
which great abundance are thrown up on
the fhores, the exa6t form of a button*
mould, and where tHofe of wood or horn
could not be procured, would be no bad
fubftitute.
Juft before we entered this bay, there
came on a moft violent and unexpected
fquall, occafioned by the land winds blow-
ing from 1 the top of the high mountains
on the north fide of the lake; it was but
of fhort duration, but very terrible while it
lafted. You will form fome idea how
powerful, and with what violence it blows
from thefe mountains, from the following
circumftance: A fmall brig belonging to
. the fleet, with very little fail, was in an
inftant laid flat on her fide, and the crew
were obliged to cut away the mails, to
make her rife again. The lake was vaftly
agitated,
30O INTERIOR TRAVELS
agitated, you may eafily judge how very
dangerous it muft have been to the (mail
batteauxj which are conftru&ed with flat
bottoms, and quite ungovernable when it
blows hard. Though the men who rowed
the batteaux in which I was were conti-
nually relieved, it was with much difficulty
they could bring her into this bay, their
ftrength being almoft exhaufted. However,
the whole brigade got fafe, except two
batteaux that were fwamped juft as they
got clofe in fhore, but as it was not out of
a man's depth, no lives were loft.
During this ftorm I dreaded much for
the fate of the Indians in their birch ca-
noes, whom I thought muft have inevitably
been funk; upon refle&ion, indeed, they
did not feem to be in fuch perfonal dan-
ger, as both male arid female, above the
ftate of infancy, are eternally in the water ;
to the furprize of every one, however, their
canoes rofe to every wave, and floated like
a cork,
THROUGH AMERICA.- 3d
a cork, which muft be entirely owing to
the lightnefs of their conftru&ion; this
lightnefs obliged them to remain fome time
upon the lake after we had landed, left the
waves fhould dafh their canoes againft the
fhore and deftroy them.
I omitted to mention in my laft, that at
the mouth of the river Bouquet there is a
finall ifland, on which were found feveral
young fawns, where the does had fwam
acrofs to drop them, as if by a natural
inftinft fenfible that the buck would de-
ftroy her young. A foldier of the com-
pany, who had been on this ifland, got
one, which he prefented to his Captain ;
it was beautifully marked, and fo young,
that it could fcarcely walk ; we put it on
board the batteaux> but during the ftbrm
it was wafhed overboard, and every effort
to fave it proved ineffe&ual, without ha-
zarding the lives of thofe in the batteanx.
Every
302 INTERIOR TRAVELS
Every day, as Addifon fays, grows
" Big with the fate of Cato and of Rome."
To-morrow we embark from this place
to Crown Point, where our operations
commence againft the enemy. Reft allured
I (hall embrace every opportunity of fend-
ing you the particulars of our proceeding.
Yours, &c.
LET-
THROUGH AMERICA. 363
LETTER XXIX.
Camp at Crown Point, Juneip t 1777-
MY DEAR FRIEND,
X¥TE are now within fight of the
* * % enemy, and their watch-boats are
continually rowing about, but beyond the
reach of cannon fhot. Before I proceed
farther, let me juft relate in what manner
the army paffed the lake, whiph was by
brigades, generally advancing from feven-
teen to twenty miles a day, and regulated
in fuch a manner, that the fecond brigade
ihould take the encampment of the firft,
and £6 on fucceflively, for each brigade to*
fill
304 XNTERIOK TRAVELS f
fill the ground the other quitted ; the time
for departure was always at day-break.
One thing appeared to me very Angular,
which I am not philofopher enough to
account for ; in failing up the lake, on all
the iflands and points of land, the water
feemed to feparate the trees from the
land, and to pafs in a manner through
them, having the appearance of fmall
brufh wood, at a very little heighth from
the water -, nor do the trees appear to come
in coftta£fc with the land, till you approach
within two or three miles of theobjeft,
when they fhow themfelves to be diftin&ly
joined.
I cannot forbear pi&uring to your ima-
gination one of the moft pleafing fpe&acles
I ever beheld. When we were in the
wideft part of the lake, whofe beauty and
extent I have already defcribed, it was re-
markably fine and clear, not a. breeze
ftirring,
THROUGH AMERICA. 305
fHrring, when the whole army appeared
at one view in fuch perfeft regularity, as
to fornv the moft compleat and fplendid
regatta you can poffibly conceive. A fight
fo novel and pleafing, could not fail of
fixing the admiration and attention of
every one prefent.
In the front, the Indians went with
their birch canoes, containing twenty or
thirty in each, then the advanced corps in
a regular line, with the gun-boats, then
followed the Royal George and Inflexible,
towing large booms, which are to be
thrown acrofs two points of land,, with
the other brigs and floops following ; after
them the firft brigade in a regular line,
then the Generals Burgoyne, Phillips,
and Reidefel in their pinnaces ; next to
them were the fecond brigade, followed
by the German brigades, and the rear was
brought up with the futlers and followers
of the army. Upon the appearance of fo
Vol. I. X for-
3&6 INTERIOR TRAVELS
formidable a fleet, you may imagine they
were ttot a little difinayed at Ticoridferoga,
for they were apprized of our advance, as
we every day could fee their Watch-boats,
We had, it is certain, a very ftrong naval
force, but ytt it might have been greatly
in the power of the Americans to have
prevented our pafling the lake fo rapidly
as we have done, efpecially as there are
certain parts of it where a few armed vef-
fels might have flopped us for fome time :
but it is an invariable maxim with "the
Americans, of which there are numberlefs
inftances in the laft- campaign, never to
face an enemy but with very fuperior ad-
vantages, and the moft evident fign!s and
profpe&s of fuccefs.
The army is now aflembling in order to
commence the fiege, as foon as the artillery
ftores arrive from Canada, which are daily
expe&ed. People in England, whofe ra-
pidity of ideas keep pace with their good
wifhes,
THROUGH AMERICA. 307
wifhes, little imagine that the diftance
from this place to Canada is ninety miles,
therefore the time it takes to bring forward
ftores is neceffarily coftfiderable. To the
great praife of General Carletoft, however,
very little delay has yet occurred, for he
forwards the ftores very expeditioufly, and
however ill-treated many people fuppofe
he is, or however he may conceive himfelf
fo, in not having the command of this
army, after being the commander in the
laft campaign, he lets np pique or ill-will
divert him from doing all the real fervice
in his power to his King and country*
In a former letter I mentioned, that w6
were to intrench at this place : . but how-
*
ever meafures may be concerted with the
utmoft judgment and precaution for fiac*
ceeding, yet when an army has advanced
to the .place they are to inveft, the General
is often convinced, that neither the defcrip*
tion of others, nor the delineation of maps
X 2 and
308 INTERIOR TRAVELS
and charts have been fo perfeft in evGry
particular, as not to make fome change in
the intended difpofitions neceflary, which
is exa&ly .our prefent fituation, as orders
are givea out for us to embark to-morrow.
What will be the future operations of the
army, after the reduction of Ticonderoga,
it is impoflible to fay, but fome vigorous
meafures, no doubt, are to be purfued, as
* an extract from the GeneraTs orders will
point out to you. It is generally believed,
however, that the army is* to force its way
into Albany. The extract is as follows :
" This army embarks to-morrow to ap-
"proach.the enemy. The fervices re-
" quired of this particular expedition, are
c< critical and confpicuous. During our
" progtefe occafions may occur, in which
" nor difficulty, nor labor, nor life are to
u be regarded. This army muft not re-
" treat/' From the laft fentence, it is a
general and fixed opinion throughout the
whole
THROUGH AMERICA. 309
whole army, that vigorous exertions are to
be made againft any oppofition, however
fuperior, we may encounter. For fuch an
expedition the army are in the beft condi-
tion that can be expefted or wifhed, the
troops in the higheft fpirits, admirably
difciplined, and remarkably healthy.
I omitted to mention, that fhortly after
the confultation with the Indians at the
river Bouquet , the General iffued out a ma-
nifefto, which was circulated in the fron-
tiers and province of Connefticut, calcu-
lated to fpread terror among the moft re-
bellious, to enforce upon their minds an
impreffion of fear, of the cruel operations
of favages, whom he now could reftrain,
and their eagernefs to be let loofe ; at the
fame time, in the moft expreflive language/
informing them, that powerful forces were
co-operating, both by fea and land, to
crufh this unnatural rebellion ; inveighing
ftrongly on the cbnduft of the prefent
X 3 Gover-
\
3?P INTERIOR TRAVELS
Governors jmd Governments here as being
the caufe of its continuance, and exhibit-
ing, in the moft lively manner, their in-
juftice, cruelty, perfecution and tyranny ;
encouraging thofe whofe difpofition and
abilities would affift in redeeming their
country from flavery, and re-?ftablifhing
its former government ; offering prote&ion
and feeurity to thofe who continued peace-
able in their habitations, and denouncing
all the calamities and outrages of war to
fuch as fhould perfevere in hostilities.
How far it may operate in this part of the
continent, I have my fears, as the New-
England Provinces are the moft violent in
their principles of rebellion.
During our ftay at this place, which has
been only three days, the rear of the army
is come up, and the magazines and hof-
pitals are eftablifhed, therefore the opera-
tions againft Ticonderoga will hnmediately
commence.
lam
THROUGH AMERICA*
3"
I am truly fenfible how averfe you were
to my entering the army, but when once
immerged, it would be folly in the extreme
to fay, that I wifhed to retraft. Although
I am not an enthufiaft in religion, ftill you
know I ever held in the greateft veneration
the fupreme Difpofer of Events, and am
not infenfible of his prote&ing hand, a fol-
dier has many hair-breadth efcapes; but
fhould it be the fate of war, and the will of *
Providence that I fhould fall, I fhall die
with the pleafingrefle&ion of having ferved
my King and country. If I furvive, you
may reft allured of my embracing svqry
opportunity to inform you of my deftiny,
, and how truly I am,
Yours. &c.
X4
LET-
312 INTERIOR TRAVELS
LETTER XXX.
Camp befpre Tic&iderega, July 5, 1777.
MY DEAR FRIEND,
* - *
TI TE are now arrived before a place
* * that is not more talked of this war
than the laft, on account of the memora-
ble fiege that then happened, in which that
gallant officer was flain, who, could his
immortal fpirit rife from its coH manfion,
would no doubt be highly pleafed to fee
his offspring, one placed at the head of
naval line, and the other of the army,
advancing the pleafing tafk of reftoring
peace to a deluded people, led on by a fet
of
THROUGH AMERICA. 313
of fa&ious meh, to a moft unnatural re-
bellion.
By the fcotiting parties juft returned we
learn, that there is a brigade which oc-
cupies the old French lines on'a height, to
the north of the fort of Ticonderoga y the
lines are in good repair, with feveral in-
trenchments behind them, fupported by
a block-houfe :, they have another poft at
the faw-mills, the foot of the carrying-
place to Lake George, and a block-houfe
upon an eminence above the mills, together
with a block-houfe and hofpitaj at the en-
trance of the lake.
Upon the right of the lines, between
them and the old fort, are two new block-
houfes, and a confiderable battery clofe to
the water's edge. But it feems the Ame-
ricans have employed their utmoft induftry
where they are in the greateft force, upon
Mount Independence, which is extremely
lofty
314 INTERIOR TRAVELS
lofty and circular. On the fummit of
the mount they have a ftar fort made of
pickets, well fupplied with artillery, and
a large fquare of barracks within it -, that
fide of the hill which projefts into the lake
is well intrenched, and has a ftrong abattis
clofe to the water, which is lined with
heavy artillery pointing down the lake,
flanking the water battery, and fuftained
by another about half way up the hill.
Fortified as the enemy are, nothing but
a regular fiege can difpoffefs them.
There has been a fkirmifh with the In-
dians and a fmall party of the enemy, who
were reconnoitering, in which they were
driven back into their lines ; the Indians
were fo rafh as to purfue them within
reach of their cannon, when feveral were
killed and wounded. Upon the firing of
their artillery, the brigade were ordered
under arms, and fhortiy after the Indians
brought the killed and wounded upop lit-
ters,
THROUGH AMERICA* 315
ters, covered with leaves. It was thought
this would have been a check upon them,
as the firft that fell was of their party, but
it feems rather to ftimul^te their valor.
t
As our friend M — was looking through
a brafs reflecting telefcope at the enemy's
works, he cried out fhot, and we had
fcarcely dropt down, before we were co-
vered with dull. He faw them run out the
cannon of the embrafure, and what I inla-
gine contributed to their pointing them,
was the refle&ion of the fun upon the
telefcope. After they had difcovered our
fituation, they fired feveral fhot, but with-
out doing any mifchief.
A very Angular circumftance has occur-
ed at this encampment. This morning, a
little after day-break, the centinel of the
picquet guard faw a man in the woods,
reading a book, whom the centinel chal-
lenged, but being fo very intent on his
fludies,
316 INTERIOR TRAVELS
fhidies, he made no reply, when the Ibl-
dier ran up to, and feizcd him; upon
waking from his reverie,' he told the cen-
tinel he was Chaplain to the 47th regiment,
but it being a fufpicious circumftance, he
was detained till the foldier was relieved,
who took him to the Captain of the pic-
quet, from whence he was immediately
fent to General Frafer's quarters. General
Frafer fuppofing it was a fineffe, for the
47th regiment was ftationed two or three
miles in the rear, and the General think-
ing himfelf perfe&ly acquainted with every
clergyman in the army, began to make
feveral enquiries concerning the Ameri-
ricans, at which he was more perplexed,
and ftill perfifted in his firft ftory. What
greatly contributed to thefe miftakes, the
man's appearance was not altogether in his
favor, being in difhabille. General Frafer
not being able to make any thing of him,
kni him with an officer to- General Bur-
goyne, who had no knowledge of him.
To
THROUGH AMERICA, 3I7
To clear up the matter, the Colonel of the
47th regiment was ferrt for, who informed
the General that he wa? the gentleman who
had delivered a letter from General Carle*-
. « - - .
ton, and had only joined the regiment from
Canada the preceding evening. The ftu-
dious gentleman little forefaw to what
dangers he had expofed himfelf by his
morning ramble, till he was flopped by
the centinel. You will naturally think he
had enough to cure him from thefe peram-
bulations in the woods.
About three days fince a great fmoke
was obferved towards Lake George, and
the fcouts brought in a report, that the
enemy hacL fet fire to the f artheft block-
' houfe, had abandoned the faw-mills, and
that a confiderable body was advancing
from\the lines towards a bridge, upon a
road which led from the faw-mills to the
right, of our encampment. A detachment
from our corps, ' fupported by the fecon4
brigade
318 INTERIOR TRAVELS
brigade, and fome light artillery, under
the command of General Phillips, were
then ordered to proceed to Mount Hope,
to reconnoitre the enemy's pofition, and to
take advantage of any poll they might
either abandon or be driven from.
*
The Indians under the command of
Captain Frazer, fupported by his company
of markfmen, (which were volunteer com-
panies from each regiment of the Britiih)
were dire&ed to make a circuit on the left
of our encampment, to cut off the retreat
of the enemy to their lines : this defign,
however, was fruftrated by the impetuofity
of the Indians, who attacked too foon,
which enabled the enemy to retire with
little lofs. General Phillips took Mount
Hope, which cut off the enemy from any
communication with Lake George; after
which we quitted our former encampment,
and occupied this poft, which is now in
great force, there being the whole of Ge-
neral
■<gr '
THROUGH AMERICA. 319
neral Frafer's corps, the fifft Britifh Wi-
gade, afrd two brigaded of artillery ♦ The
enemy have cannonaded the camp, but
without feffe&, and continued the fame the
next day, while the army were employed
in getting up the artillery tetits, baggage,
and prrovifions, during which time we never
fired a fingle cannoii*
This day Luiteiiant Twifs, the com-
manding engineer, wis ordered to recon-
noitre Sugar-Hill, on the fouth fide of
the communication from Lake George
into Lake Champlain, part of which the
lighfr-infantry had taken poffeffion of laft
night j he reported this hill to have the
entire command of the works and build-
ings, both at Ticonderoga and Mount In-
dependence, of about 1 400 yards from the
former, and 1500 from the latter 5 that
the ground might be levelled fo as te re-
ceive cannon, and that the road to convey
them, though extremely difficult, might fee
accom-
320 INTERIOR TRAVELS
accomplifhed in twenty -four hours. This
hill alfo commanded the bridge of comma?
nication, and from it they could fee the
exa6t fituation of their vefTels j and what
»
was another yery great advantage, from
the pofleffion of this poft, the enemy,
during the day, could not make any ma*
terial movement or preparation, without
being difcovered; and even their numbers
counted. Upon this report of Lieutenant
Twifs, it was determined a battery fhould
be raifed on thisr poft, for , light twenty-
four pounders, medium twelves* and eight
inch howitzers, which very ardupus un-
dertaking is now carrying on. fo rapidly,
that there is little doubt ,but it will be
compleated and ready to open upon the
enemy to-morrow morning. Great praife
is due to the zeal and activity of- General
Phillips, who has the dire&ion of this
operation : he has as expedif ioufly con-
veyed cannon to the fommit of this hill,
as he brought it up. in that memorable
battle
T-H&OtfjG-H AMERICA. ?2I
battle at Minden, where, it is faid, fuch
was his anxioufnefs in expediting the artil-*
lery, that he fplit no lefs than fifteen canes
iii beating the horfes -, at which battle he
fo gallantly distinguished himfelf, by the
management of his artillery, as totally to
rout the French.
I am happy to embrace the opportunity
of fending this by a futler, who is return-
ing down the lake to St. John's. Be aflured
youJball know every event of this import-
ant fiege, by the firft conveyance that pre-
fents itfeif. Adieii..
Yours, &c
Vol. I. Y LET-
322 INTERIOR "TRAVELS
LETTER XXXI.
Camp at Skenefiorough, July 12, 1777.
MY DEAR FRIEND,
NO doubt, after fo much as I have
repeatedly mentioned to you in
my former letters relative to Ticonderoga,
and the vigorous defence it was univerfally
fuppofed the enemy would make, you
will be greatly furprized to receive a letter
from me, at fo great a diftance beyond that
important poft -, fully to explain to you
the manner of the Americans abandoning
it, and our progrefs to this place, I mull
proceed a little methodically in my defcrip-
tion. .
After
THROUGH AMERICA. 323
After we had gained poffeffion of Sugar-
Hill, on the 5 th inftant, that very evening
we obferved the enemy making great fires $
it was then generally thought they were
meditating an attack, or that they were
retreating, which latter circumftance really
was the cafe, for about day-break intelli-
gence was brought to General Frafer, that
the enemy were retiring, when the pic-
quets were ordered to advance, which the
brigades, as foon as they were accoutred,
were to follow.
They were foon ready, and marched
down to the works $ when we came to the
*
bridge of communication, we were obliged
to halt till it was fufficiently repaired for
the troops to pafs, as the enemy, in their
abandoning the works, had deftroyed it,
and had left four men, who were, upon the
approach of our army, to have fired off the
cannon of a large battery that defended it,
Y 2 and
and retire as qtiicfeas poUibfe. N© timbt
iflm wais vtheir intention, i*s they feft <&&-
lighted liritashes dofe to r the cannon .
4
■ttafl'thefe irten'obeyea' their inftrtt&ions,
they'wdeiKl,'%a{ftfefi as 6ur brigade was,
"have done • gi^eiart inifHhief ^ but, allured by
the fwetfs tof plunder and liquor, inftead
of obeying their brdeiis, 'We found thetn
dekd ; drtfnk : by a calk 6£ TVfedeira. This
'battery, however, hard, trough the folly
of an Indian, nearly been proftu£tive off
fatal confequences to the 9th regiment, for
juft at the time it was puffing the bridge,
as he was very curious in examining
every thing that came in his way, he took
nip a match that lay on the ground, with
fome fire ftill remaining in it, when a fpark
dropping upon the priming of a cannon, it
went off, loaded with all manner of com-
buftibles, but it fortunately happened the
gun ;yvas fo elevated, no tnifchief enfued.
Shortly
THROUGH AMERICA. 352
In a fhort time after the bridge wa$
rendered paffable, our brigade croffed, an4
we advanced up to the picqueted fort,
where the Britifh colours were inftaitfly
hoiiled. The Americans certainly had
planned feme fcheme, which proved abor-
tive, and which was left perhaps tq the
commiflion of thofe men who remained
behind, for the ground was ftjrewed $\
over with gunpowder, and there were
likewife feveral ca&s pf it with the tops
ftruck out.
After we had remained feme little time
in the fort, orders came for the advanced
corps to march in purfuit of tl>e ^nejny,
who, we were inforj#qi, had g°^ e *° Hifc-
berton, in order to harrafs their rear. We
marched till one o'clock, in a very hot and
fultry day, over a continued fucceflipn of
ftepp ajid woody frills $ the diftance I can-
not afcertain, but we were marching very
Y 3 «pe-
326 INTERIOR TRAVELS
expeditioufly from four in the morning to
that time.
On our march we picked up feveral
ftragglers, from whom General Frafer
learnt that the rear-guard of the enemy
was compofed of chofen men, commanded
by a Colonel Francis^ who was reckoned
one of their beft officers.
During the time the advanced corps
halted to refrefh, General Reidefel came
up, and after confulting with General
Frafer, and making arrangements for con-
tinuing the purfuit, we marched forward
again three miles nearer the enemy, to an
advantageous fituation, where we lay that
night on our arms.
At three in the morning our march was
renewed, and about five we came up with
the enemy, who were bufily employed in
cooking their provifions.
Major
THROUGH AMERICA. yij
Major Grant, of the 24th regiment, who
had the advanced guard, attacked their
picquets, which were foon driven in to the
main body. From this attack we lament
the death of this very gallant and brave
officer, who in all probability fell a vi£tim
to the great difadvantages we experience
peculiar to this unfortunate conteft, thofe
of the rifle-men. Upon his coming up
with the enemy, he got upon the ftump
of a tree to reconnoitre, and had hardly
given the men orders to fire, when he was
{truck by a rifle ball, fell off the tree, and
iiever uttered another fyllable.
The light infantry then formed, as well
as the 24th regiment, the former of which
fufFered very much from the enemy's fire,
particularly the companies of the 29th and
34th regiments. The grenadiers were or-
dered to form to prevent the enemy's get-
ting to the road that le^ds to Caftle-Town,
which they were endeavouring to do, and
Y 4 " were
328 INTERIOR TRAVELS
were reptd&d, upon which they attempted
their retreat by a very fteep mountain to
Pittsford. The grenadiers fcrambled up
an afeent which appeared almoft irtaecef-
fible, and gained the furhmit of the moun-
tain before them; this threw them into
great confufion, arid that you may form
fome idea how fteep the afeent muft have
been, 'the Hieri were obliged to fling their
firelocks and, climb tip the fide, fometimes
t efting their feet upon the branch of d
tree, and fometimes on a piece of the rock ;
nad any been fb unfortunate is to have
miffed his hold, he muft inevitably been
dafhed to pieces.
Although the grenadiers had gain'd the
fummit of this mountain, and the Ameri-
cans had loft great numbers of their men,
with their brave commander Col. Francis,
ftill they were far fuperior in numbers to
the Britifh, and the conteft remained
doubtful till the arrival of the Germans,
when
THROUGH AMERICA. 329
when the Americans fled on, all fides, whofe
numbers amounted to 2000 5 they were
oppofed only by 850 Britifh, as it was
near ' two hours before the Germans made
their appearance.
General Reidefel had come to the field
of a&ion a considerable time before his
troops, and in the courfe of the a&ion
paffing by him, I could not help feeling
for his fituation, for the honor of a
bfave officer, who was pouring forth every
imprecation againft his troops, for their
not arriving at the place of a&ion time
enough to earn the glories of the day.
Upon their arrival, we were apprehen-
five, by the noife we heard, that a reinforce-
ment had been fent back from the main
body of the American army for the fup-
port of their rear-guard, for they began
finging pfalms on their advance, and at
the fame time kept up an inceffaftt firing,
which
330 INTERIOR rRAVELS
which totally decided the fate of .-the day ;
«
but even after the aftion was over, there
were lurking parties hovering about the
woods.
During the battle the Americans were
guilty of fuch a breach of all military rules,
as could not fail to exafperate our foldiers.
The a&ion was chiefly in woods, inter-
fperfed with a few open fields. Two com-
panies of grenadiers, who were ftatio N ned
in the fkirts of the wood, clofe to one of
thefe fields, to watch that the enemy did
not out-flank the 24th regiment, obferved
a number of the Americans, to the amount
of near fixty, coming acrofs the field, with
their arms clubbed, which is always con-
sidered to be a furrender 'as prifoners of
war. The grenadiers were retrained from
firing, commanded to ftand with their
arms, and fhew no intention of hoftility :
when the Americans had got within ten
yards, they in an inftant turned round
their
4
THROUGH AMERICA. 331
their mufquets, fired upon the grenadiers,
and run as faft as they could into the
woods; their fire killed and wounded a
great number of men, and thofe who
efcaped immediately purfued them, and
gave no quarter.
This war is very different to the laft
in Germany \ in this the life of an indivi-
dual is fought with as much avidity as
the obtaining a viftory over an army of
thoufands, of which the following is a
melancholy inftance :
After the aftion was over, and all firing
had ceafed for near two hours, upon the
fummit of the mountain I have already
defcribed, which had no ground any where
that could command it, a number pf offi-
cers were collefted to read the papers taken
out of the pocket book of Colonel Fran-
cis, when Captain Shrimpton, of the 6 2d
regiment, who had the papers in his hand,
jumped
332 INTERIOR TRAVELS
jumped up and fell, exclaiming, " he was
<c feverely wounded 5" we all heard the
ball whiz by us, and turning to the place
from whence the report came, faw the
fmoke : as there was every reafon to ima-r
gine the piece was fired from fome tree,
a party of men were inftantly detached,
but could find no perfon, the fellow, no
doubt, as foon as he had fired, had flipt
down and made his efcape.
About five o'clock in the afternoon,
the grenadiers were ordered from the fum-
mit of the mountain to join the light in-
fantry and 24th regiment, on an advan-
tageous fituation ; in our cool moments,
in defcending, every one was fcftoniftied
how he had ever gained the fummit.-*-
For my own part, it appeared as if I
fhould never reach the bottom * but my
defcent was greatly retarded by conduc-
ing Major Ackland, who was wotnwtel
in the thigh.
In
R 1<xL*
. Ift-tlhis a&iori 1 fb\»fcd ail manual e*er~,
cife is but an ornament, and the <&Uy
object of importance it can boaft of was,
that cffiloa&ng, firing, an^ dharging 'with
bayonets: as *to the farmer, the fcflcBers
fliould be inftra6led infhe'beft-afnd^mQl}:
expeditious method. Here I cannot help
obfervmg to you, whether it proceeded
from an idea of felf prefervation, or natu-
ral inftinft, but the foldiers greatly im-
proved the mode they were taught in, as
to expedition, for as foon as they had
primed their pieces, and put the cartridge
into the barrel, inftead of ramming it
down with their rods, they ftruck the butt
end of their piece upon the ground, and
bringing it to the prefent^ fired it off.
The. confufion of a man's ideas during
the time of aftion, brave as he may be,
is undoubtedly great; feveral of the men,
"Upon examining their mufkets, after all
was over, found five or fix cartridges,
which
334 INTERIOR TRAVELS'
which they were politive to the having
difcharged.
Deferring the remainder of the particu-
lars of this adtionj with our march to
this place, I remain
Yours, &c.
LET-
/
THROUGH AMERICA; 335
LETTER XXXII.
Camp at Skenejborougb, July 1 4, 1 777 •
MY DEAR FRIEND,
• >
TH E confufion of the enemy on their
retreat was very great, as they were
neither fenfible where they fled, nor by
whom they were condu&ed, after Colonel
Francis was killed, when they took to the
mountains.
Exclufive of 200 men that were killed,
and near 600" wounded, many of whom
died in endeavouring to get off, the lofs
on our fide has been very inconfiderable.
After the action was over, a Colonel with
the
33^ INTJERJP* TRAVELS
the remains of his regiment, to the amount
of 230, came and furrendered himfelf
prifoner.
The advantages of the grpund was
wholly dn the fide of the Americans, added
to which the woods were fo thick, that
little or no order could be .obferved in ad-
vancing upon the enemy, it being totally
impoflible to form a regular line ; perfonal
courage and intrepidity was therefore to
fupply the place of . military ikill and |H£
cipline. The native bravery <of our coun-
trymen could not be more refohitely dis-
played than in this action, nor more effec-
tually exerted. It was a trial of the &6ti-
vity, ftrength and valor of every man that
fought. At the commencement of the
aftion the enemy \yere every where thrown
into the greateft confufion, but being ral-
lied by that brave offiqer, Colonel Francis,
whofe death, though an enemy, will ever
.be regretted by thofe who can feel for the
lofs
Y.H^pUp^ AMERICA 337
lofs .$f a ga}lan£an4 brave manj #* e fighf
wa^;rene«yed wjth the greateft decree of
fierqenefs .and obftinacy. Both parties en*
gaged in fepafate detachments unconnected
^ith.gacfc .other, and tip numbers of tty
enemy empowered them to fronjt flank and
rear. . §#meof thefe 4etachment§ l; notwith r
ftanding an inferiority, moft refolutety 4?-
fended thj^nlelve^and the fate of the day
wqs ^nde^ided, till the ;arrival df .the Ger-
mans, jwho, th^t^h, late, $*t|ie Mifor a
fhare of tdaej gkny> in difperftng the enemy
in; a|l) quarters. .*,. , <: ! •'•■•..:.•-.; .
Having given ypu, the p^rtieulsis of this
engagement, permit mt> as it is the firft I
ever ' was in, to make my remarks iri the
time of cohfti&. . '
<
i •
During the adlion, every apprehenfion
arid idea of danger forfakes the mind, which
becomes more animated and determined
the nearer the time of attack approaches.
Vol. I. Z Every
338 -Artsirok tRAVtis
-fevery tidier feels infpfred with) an &n$a^
tient aixldr, as if he conceived tfie fate of the
battle would be decided by the' levelof his
inufquet, or the point of his bayonet:
hutt th6 conflift oncteover, the mind re*
turns to * its' proper fenfe of feeling, and
deeply nroft its fenfibility be wounded,
wlieiithe eye glances over the field of
flafoghter, where fb'ftiany biftve fellows ■>
who a few hours before were iA high ^)irits
arid fuM-of the vigor of life, are laid low in
the du#i and the ear corttiftually pierced
with the deep fighs and groans of the
wounded and dying. Even the joy rifmg
in the bofom £t the ; fight of furviving
friends and brother officers, is faddened by
the recollection of thofe who fell. Such,
my dear friend, are the fenfations of the
mind, before and after a battle.
That foldiers ' have many hair-breadth
efcapes, I am fure was never more fully
verified
Through America, . 339
verified, than in regard to Lord Balcarres,
who commands the light infantry ; he had
near thirty balls fhot through his jacket
and trowfers, and yet only received a finall
graze on the hip. Others were equally
as unfortunate, for upon the very firft
attack of the light infantry, Lieutenant
Haggit received a ball in each of his
eyes, and Lieutenant Douglas, of the 29th
regiment, as he was carried off the field
wounded, received a ball dire£Uy through
his heart, Thefe extraordinary events
may in fome meafure be accounted for,
as the leaft refiftance of a mufquet ball
will give it a direftion almoft incredible :
when the Surgeon came to examine the
wound of a poor American, it appeared
that the ball had entered on his left fide,
and having traverfed between die Ikin and
the back bone, came out on the oppofite
fide.
Z2 When
1
1 *
34° INTERIOR TRAVELS
• *
Wfieft General- Frafer had pofted the
corps in ail advantageous ftate of defence,
and made fome log works, as he expe&ed
we fhoirfd'be attacked, his next thoughts
w£re v how to refrefh the men after the fa-
tigues'' of the day, provifions being unable
t6 t>e forwarded, ori' account of the coun-
try's being very hilly; a detachment was
fent to flioot fome buBecks that Were run-
ning m thte Voeds-, thefe were diftributed
r. ■ '
!tv ra^i6s " to the men, which they eat,
drefied iipon wood afhes, without either
tread or fait. : *
m
■ * i • »
w , * # -4
Juft at tliis tknfe chance fupplied the
officers with & very acceptable, though An-
gular fubftitute for bread to their beef:
an officer who Was at Ticonderoga^ by way
of a joke, fent his brdther a great quantity
of gingerbread that was taken at that
place, which he now diftributed among the
officers, and as General Frafer fhared the
•- • - fame.'
THROUGH AMERICA, 341
fame as the men, he «4ient part of it -to him.
as a prefent.
We laid upon our arms all night, and
the next morning fent back the .prifoners
to Ticonderoga, amounting to near 250.
A very fmali detachment could be fpared
to guard them, as General Frafer expe&ed
the enemy would have reinforcements from
the main body of their army, and oppofe
his crofting a wide creek, after we had
paired CaftJetown. He told the Colonel of
the Americans, who had furrendered himfelf,
to inform the reft of the prifoners, that if
they attempted to efcape, no quarter would
be fhewn them, and that thole who might
elude the guard, the Indians would be fent
in purfuit of, and fcalp them.
Leaving the fick and wounded under
the care of a fubaltern's guard, tp protect
them from the Indians, or fcouting parties
of the enemy, the brigade marched to
Z3 Caftle-
34* INTERIOR TRAVELS
Caftletown, where the men were recruited
with fome frefh provifions and a gill of
rum; after this they proceeded on their
march to the creek, to crofs over which
the pioneers were obliged to fell fome
trees ; only one man could pafs over at a
time, fo that jt was near dark before the
whole of the brigade had eroded, when we
had feven miles to march to this place.
Major Shrimpton, who I told you was
wounded upon the hill, rather than remain
with the wounded at Huberton, preferred
marching with the brigade, and on crofling
this creek, havjng only one hand to aflift
himfelf with, was on the point of flip-
ping in, had not an officer who was be-
hind him caught hold of his cloaths, juft
as he was falling. His wound was through
his fhoulder, and as he could walk, he faid
he would not remain to fall into the ene-
my's hands, 3s it was'univerfally thought
the fick and wounded muft, Very fortu-
nately,
THROUGH A METRIC A. 343
nately,. however, for them, they met with
no rapleftation, and three days after were
conveyed in litters to Ticonjteroga, as the;
road was impaffable ] fpr my fort of car-
riage.- . . , , , ; f . ?
» j *
1 -> A _> . A .
After we had crofled the creek, General
Frafer was perfe£Uy eafy in his mind con-
cerning an attack, which he had been ap-
prehensive of- the whole day, and gave
orders to make the beft of our way to this
encampment, which was through a road
where every ftep we took was nearly up to
the knees. After a march of near thirty
miles, in an exceffive woody and bad
countiy, every moment in expectation
of being attacked, till we had croffed the
creek, you muft naturally fuppofe we
underwent a moft fevere fatigue, both of
mind and body.
J?pr~my own part, I readily own to you,
that the exertions of the day had fo far
Z 4 wearied
344 fNtf-ERIO* tfftAvfcLS
wearied me, that dfinkihg heartily of mm
and water j I laid down in my bear-fkin and
blanket, and did net awake till tvtelvo ths
next day. But that I may not fatigue you
as much as I then felt myfelf , or make you
fall afleep, I fhall conclude with fubfcribing
myfelf, » . - •• -
r
• i
t « » • 1
• f
f • f
Yours, &Cr <
t *
f '
r
r
.' » 'II -v,
' *( " f I )' ' ' * M ' '
/ - - J
f I
*
TS*QPG8 AM ; ERI€A* ,345
1 I 'f-*i ♦
J ...
Camp at Skenejfarougb, fitly \ 4, 1 7 7 7 .
MY DEAR FRIEND,
Wpfc are ftiil encamped at this place,
^ * waiting the arrival of provifions,
batttadxrj • tind many - other incumbrances,
armies in geherdl are "but very feldom
trdiiblM with, andis ^hindrance which
that to^e fouthward has not to encoun-
tier, 'for 1 'whatever want of water carriage
they meet with, the navy can always aft
in r c6-bpefatk>ti with them. I mention
this; that you may not be furprized at
our riot maktnfgfuch rapid marches, and
- > • ' over-
346 INTERIOR TRAVEfS
over-running the country, as they in all
probability will.
The army are all aflembled at this place,
and In a few days the advanced -corps
march to Fort Edward. You would like
to learn the movements of the other part
of the army> after we got poffeffioiv of
Ticonderoga ; I was not with them, but
you (hall know what I have been able to
colleft. , .
After a paffage had been made, widi
great difficulty, but with much expedi-
tion, for the gun-boats and veffels ta.pafs
the bridge of communication, between Ti-
conderoga and Fort Independence, (wfhicji
had coft the Americans much labor and
»
expence in conftrudting) the main body of
the army purfued the enemy by South
Bay, within three miles of this placfe,
where they were pofted in a ftockaded
fort, with their armed gallies. The firft
brigade
i
THROUGH AMERICA.- 347
brigade was difembarked with an intention
of cutting off the enemy's retreat, but
their hafty flight rendered that manoeuvre
ufelefs. The gun-b6ats and frigates piir-
fued the armed vefleJs, and when the enemy
arrived at the falls of this place, fchey
made a defence for fome time, after which
they blew up three of their veflels, and
tlie other two ftruefc.
On the enemy's retreat they fet fire to
the fort, dwell! ng-houfe, faw-mill, iron-
works, and all the building on this plan-
tation, deftroyed the batteaux and retired
to Fort Edward.
An officer who came up at the time of
die conflagration, aflured me he never faw
fo tremendous a fight ; for executive of the 1
fhipping, building, &c. the trees all up
the fide of the hanging rock, had caught
fire, as well as at the top of a very lofty
hill.
348 INTERIOR TRAVELS
hill.. , The element appeared to threaten
universal ,deftru^pn v
The 9th regiment was. fent to take poft
at Fort Ann, to obferve the motion of the
enemy,, as . well as to diflodge them : but
intelligence having been received that they
had been greatly reinforced, Colonel Hill
fent word to General Burgoyne, that he
ftiould not retire with his regiment but
maintain his ground ; the other two re-
giments of the brigade, with two pieces
of artillery, were ordered to fupport them,
with General Phillips, who took the com-
mand -, but a violent ftorm of rain, which
lafted the whole day, prevented their get-
ting to their relief fb fbon as was intended,
which gave the 9th regiment an opportu-
nity of diftingufhing themfelves, in a
moft gallant and fignal manner, by re-
pulfing an attack of fix times their num-
ber, and the enemy not being able to force
them
THROUGH AMERICA.. 349
them in front, endeavored to turn their
flank, which from .their great fuperiority
was much to be £ bared ? when Colonel
Hill thought it neceflary to change his po-
ll tion in the very height of the a&ion,
which was executed with great fteadinefs
and bravery. In this .-manner the fight
was carried on for a coafiderable length of
time, the Britiih troops maintaining^ their
ground, and the .enemy gradually retir-
ing, were at lafl: totally f-epulfed, and
fled ' to Fort Edward^ fctting fire to Fort
Ann, but left a faw-mill and block-houfe
(landing, which was immediately taken
pofleflion of by a party of the 9th regi-
ment;
*
After we had abandoned this block-houle
and few mills, and proceeded to Fort
Edward, the enemy returned and fet fire to
it ; and as you defire me to fend you a few
drawings of fuch things as I might think
beft
j$(J INTERIOR TRAVELS
beft worth taking a flcetch of, I have lent
a reprefentation of the block-houfe and
few mill, as being a very romantic view.
The 9th regiment have acquired great
honor in this affcion ; though it lafted fo
long, and was fought under fuch difgdvan-
tages, they have fuftained very little Iofs.
Captain Montgomery (brother-in-law to
Lord Townfhend) a very gallant officer,
was wounded early in the a&ion, and ta-
ken piifoner, with the Surgeon, as he was
dreffing his wound, which happened as the
regiment was changing its pofition.
During this a&ion, that pleafant Hiber-
nian acquaintance of ours, M , of the
fame regiment, was, {lightly wounded, and
conveyed into the houfe with the reft of
the wounded, which had been attacked,
• , . «
as part of the regiment had thrown them-
felves into it, for better defence during the
a&ion t Our friend M -, in endeavor-
ing
THROUGH AAtEIUCA* 35*-
ing- to. comfort his: i^lbW-fufferers, in a
blunt manner, exclaimed, " By heavens,
" my good lads, you need not think fo
" much of being wounded, . for by Jafiis
«* God there's a bulletin the beam."
As to the other part of the army, fome
remained' behind at Ticonderoga, fojne em-
jployed iiL bringing up the batteaux, &c.
but the whole are now affembled, r^id col-
ie£ted at this place.
From the various accounts we have been
able to -collect of the Americans, rela-
tive to their abandoning Ticonderoga, it
feemed that upon our gaining pofleflion of
Sugaf-Hill, a poft which they were cer-
tainly very negligent and imprudent in not
fecuring, they were greatly difmayed, and
feeing the preparations we were miking
to open a battery, which I before obferved
had the command of all their works, they
called a council of their principal officers,
when
352 INTE-RfO* TRAVELS
when it was^pointed out toihenrby Ge-
neral Sinclair, who commanded the garri^
fort,' that tlieir force was veify deficient in
ntiriibers to man their worits, "and! that it
,was impoflible to mfcke any effe&ual de-
fence, obferving to them that places, how-
ever ftrpng, without a fufiufientininftber of
troops* mult furrender, and that in all pro*-
bability/the place v/ould be fdrrounded in
lefs than four and twenty hoim. In this
fituation of affairs, the General faw_,the
ruin of his army, and it was his opinion
that the fort ought to be abandoned tQ'fave
the troops ; that the baggage and artiUery
ftores were to be fent to Skenelborough by-
water, and the troops were to march by
land, by the way of Huberton, to that
place. Thefe proposals being fully approv-
ed, of by the council, was the reafon of
their evacuating it that night, and hazard-'
ing the undertaking.
General
THROUGH AMERICA* 353
General Burgoyne forefeeing the great
difficulties of conveying even provifions,
fetting apart baggage, has iffued out the
following orders: ;
» • • Ji\ lilt J I - » * . • ' *
/ ] <c vlt'is oBfSrved, i that Jthe injun&ion
cc given before the army took the field, re-
<c lative to the baggage of officers, has not
''jbeen; complied whit, and that the regi-
* meats in general are incumbered with
" mtieh more baggage than they can pot*
<c fibly>be applied with mdans of convey-,
" ing, when they quit the lake and rivers:
"' warning is therefore given .again to the
" officers y to convey by the batfeaupc which
€ ' 1 will foon return to Ticonderoga, the
"^baggage that is hot iiuiifpenfibly necef-
<c fary to them, or upon the firft fudden
" movement, it muft inevitably be left on
" the ground. Such gentlemen as ferved
" in America laft war may remdtnber, that
€C the officers took up with foldiers tents,
Vol. I. A a • " and
354 iHTfcRWJJfc TRAVELS'.
u and often confined their baggage to a
" hnapfack, for months together."
* ... , . 4
Fortunately for me, my horfe has come
fafe round the lakes, which will enable me
tDokeepj;theiittld baggbge I brought with
r r '\ *
■ a« *
Jon ^
• : 3?her.Indiiis^ miniated with our fiic^
<&fc; have avquiredr mbre. confidence and
e<kuiage^aT5 great ntimbers have joined the
ar^rr^and are^lyxontinuing^ fo to do.
.<V;. "' '
3rftTntx|»6ted orders being juft given out,
tffott ' Captain Gardner departs to-morrow
fdtf Extend, a»3 hatfing- fereratmore let-
ters, to writer t hrn dbliged to leave you.
Adieu.- '
* k
Y&urs, &c.
LET-
THROUGH AMERICA. $££.
LETTER XXXIV.
Camp at Sktnefimugb, July 17, 1777*
MY DEAR FRIEND,
YO U will no doubt be furprized, that
in my account of the proceedings of
the army, every drcrrmftaflce of which
feems to add glory and conqufeft to the
Britifh arms, that I never made mention
of the favages, in our purfuit of the enemy
from Ticonderoga 5 they could not, in any
refpeft whatever, be drawn away from the
plunder of that place, and I am afraid this
is not the only inftance in which the Ge-
neral has found their afliftance little more
than a name.
Aa2 Thofe
$56 INTERIOR TRAVELS t
Thofe who have the management and
conduft of them are, from interefted mo-
tives, obliged to indulge them in all their
caprices and humors, and, like fpoiled
children> are. mora unreafonable and im-
portunate upon every new indulgence
granted them: but there is no remedy;
werA they^left to themfelves, they would
be guilty of enormities too horrid to think
of, for guilty and innocent, womeji and
*
infants, would be their common prey.
4
This is too. muqh the cafe of the lower
Canadian Indians, whieh are the only ones*
who have joined our army -but we under-
ftand, within two days march,, the Outawas,
and fome remoter nations, are on the road
to join us, more brave, and more tradable,
who profefs war, and not pillage. They
are under the dire&ion of a Monfieur St.
Luc^ and one Langdale, both of whom
were great partizans of the French laft war ;
the latter was the perfon who planned and
executed,
THROUGH AMERICA. .357
executed, with the nations he is now
efcorting, the defeat of General Braddock.
* -
If thefe Indians correfpond with the
charadler given of them, fome good may
be derived from their afliftance ; little is to
be expedted from thofe with the army at
prefent, but plundering.
As I hinted to you in a former letter,
the General's manifeftp has not had the
defired effedl, as intelligence is brought in
that the committees are ufing their utmoft
endeavors to counteradl it, by watching and
imprifoning all perfons they fufpeft, com-
pelling the people to take arms, to drive
their cattle and burn their corn, under the
penalty of immediate death $ and, farry am
I to add, that numbers of well-difpofed
perfons to the fuccefs of our arms, have
already undergone that fate ! Hiftory, I
think, cannot furnifh an inftance, where
a war was ever carried on with fo much
A a 3 rancor,
«.*
35^ INTERIOR TRAVELS
rancor, not only with thofe who feem in*
dined to oppofe them, but equally to thofe
who would remain neuter.
Numbers have joined the army fince we
have penetrated into this place, profeffing
thejnfelves loyalifta, wifhing to ferve, forae
to the end of the war, fome only the cam-
paign, a third part of the number have
arms* and till Qrms arrive for the r$ maun-
der, they $rs employed in clearing thf
rpajis a»d repairing the bridges, in which
the Americans are very expert*
We are obliged to wait fome time in our
prefent position, till the roads are cleared
of the trees which the Americans felled
after their retreat. You would think it
almoft impoffible, but every ten or twelve
yards great trees are laid acrofa the road,
exclufive of fmaller ones, efpecially when
it is confidered what a hafty retreat they
made of it. Repairing the bridges is a
work
THROUGH AMERICA. 359
work of fpmeljibor, a4JedtQ^rhiph> $ftock
of provifions muft be brought up previous
to our marching to Fort Edward. We lie
under eaafiy ^jf^aat^f s in profecuting
this war, Aon* the, impediments I have
ftafeed, araiwe eanaot follow .^his great mi-
litary maxim, <c i& good fuccefs p*jfl?L ths
" ady,ftntegp as far as yo^ can."
1 »» 1
While this part of the army is thus em-
ployed, the remainder are convayingrthe
gun-boats, batieaux and pr ovifion : YfQgfo
into Lake George, *o fc ftp9£ && lake, §lj»4
fecure the future route pf *ms m9gftfc#i§?j
when that force is ready tp move down thg
Jake, the array will procf ed to psfiefs F!©£
Edward, by which means tl>e esifjgy, if
they do not abandon Fott Ge$jg$, jbm#
inevitably be caught, ^asthey *tf$\)pe enr
clofed by the two armies,. During tliefe
movements General Rekkfel istom^e a
diverfion into Conne&icut, and ^cp^^ito?
the country, and by that feint tp dfgw the
A a 4 attention
I «
j60 iNTERIOk TRAVELS
attention of the Americans to almoft every
quarter, *
4
Our fuccefies, no doubt, muft have ope-
rated ftrongly on the minds of the enemy,
and they will be equally as anxious to adopt
meafures for flopping the progrefs of our
army, as to prevent the imminent danger
the northern colonies are expofed to,
* » •
Oa Sunday laft a thankfgiving fermon
was preached, for the fuccefs of our arms,
after which there was a. feu de joie fired by
the whole army, with artillery and finall
arms; the fermon was preached by the
clergyman whom I have made mention of,
and an exceeding good one it was, for a
parifh church, but not in the leaft appli*
cable to the occafion.
By the beft intelligence that can be gain-
fcd, we are informed, that General Schuy-
ler is at Fort Edward, colle&ing tl^e militia
from
THROUGH AMERTCAi 36 1
f irom the adjacent countries, which, with
the remains of their broken army, is to
form a foflicient body for making a Hand
at this place. Their fhattered army have
fuffered incredible hardships from the want
Of provifions, and the neceflaiies * to cover
them, from the incefiant rains that have
fell of late, as they were compelled to mftke
a week's circuit through the woods, before
they could reach Fort Edward, in order to
avoid the various ftrong detachments that
we had in different parts, on the Connec-
ticut fide.
I omitted to mention to you, that your
old friend Captain H — , was wounded at
the battle of Huberton, early in the a&ion,
when the grenadiers formed to fupport the
light infantry. I could not pafs by him as
he lay under a tree, where he had fcrambled
upon his hands and knees, to proteft him
from the fcattering (hot, without going up
to fee what affiftance could be "afforded him,
and
36* INT.EKIO* TJLAVWI
and leara if he was fever ely wounded. You
who know his ready turn for wit, will not
be furprized to hear, though, in extreme
agony* that with an arch look, and clap*
ping his hand behind him, he told me, if
I wanted to be fatisfied, I muft afk that,
as the ball had entered at his hip, and pat
fed through a certain part adjoining : he is
now at Ticonderoga, and, from die laft de-
count, is recovering faft.
We march to-morrow, and on our ar-
rival at Fort Edward you may depend upon
hearing from,
Yours, &c.
LET-
THROUGH AMK1ICA. 36$
L E T T % K XXXV.
Camp at Fort Edward, Auguft6 9 1777*
MY DEAR. FRIEND,
1
\\T E are arrived at this place, in which
^ ^ it was thought the enemy would
have made a ftand, but upon intelligence
of our advancing, they precipitately aban-
doned it, as they did the garrifon of Ticon-
deroga. Very fortunately for the garrifore
of Fort George, they had paffed this place
about an hour before our arrival ; had they
been that much later, they muft have been
inevitably cut oft
The
364 INTERIOR TRAVELS
The country between our late encamp-
ment at Skenefborough and this place, was
a continuation of woods and creeks, inter-
fperfed with deep moraffes ; and to add to
thefe natural impediments, the enemy had
very induftrioufly augmented them, by
felling immenfe trees, and various other
ipodes, that it was with the utmoft pains
and fatigue we could work our way through
them. Exclufive of thefe, the watery
grounds and marfhes were fo numerous,
that we were under the neceflity of con-
ftru&ing no lefs than forty bridges to pafc
them, and over one morafs there was a
bridge of near two miles in length.
In our march through this wildernefs,
as it may with propriety be called, we met
with very little difficulty from the Ame-
ricans. They fometimes, when our people
were removing the obftructions we had
continually to encounter, would attack
them, but as they were only {haggling
parties
through America;
parties, they were eafily repulfed. The
diftance from our late encampment to this
place was fmall, but the many obftacles
the enemy had thrown in our way, made
it a matter of aftonifhment, confidering
the laborious march We had undergone/
that we fhouLl arrive fo foon.
•^ . . .
On our way, we marched acrofs> thtt
Pine-plains, which derive their name from
an extenfive ~ fpace of level country, ' on
which grows nothing but very lofty pine-
trees. On thefe plains we frequently met
with the enemy's encampment, and about
the center of them, upon fome rifiiig
ground, there w^re exceeding ftrong works*
defended by an immenfe abbatis, where it
was thought they would wait our approach*
But : this pofition was not fuited to the
Americans, for if their lines were forced,;
• • ■
theif rear Was an operi extent of countryl
It is a general obfervation, £hat they ijevei
make a ifcand but upon an eminence, al-
moft
366 INTBHIO* TR'AVELf
moff inateeffiMb, and a wood to cover their
1
retreat* .*■.•.■•
* *
V* -
At this encampment the expe&ed In-
diana have joined us \ they fcem to poffefs
ipore Wavery, and . much more/iiumanity,
than thofe who accothpanied lis acrofs Lake
Champlain, as the following little anecdote
convince you:
• A fe\fr days fince feveral df them fell in.
witha-fcouting party of the Americans,
and after a little fkirmifh, the enemy fled
tto their kitteaux, and rowed acrofs the
river* The Indians fired at, but could not
reach Them, and being greatly exafperated
sit their making their efcape, perceiving a
fcsg-tt&ugh, they pat their fira-grms into
it T ftfif)ped and fwmfracrofs the fiver, puih-
iftg'tfae -hog-trough ^before them. The
Iiadfems gained the^ fhore lower down than
the Americans, fufprized and took them
prifoners*
rTHRt>lTGH AMERICA. 367
priTohers,. and fcrobght thcih back In the
bdtttmx acrofs theriv&v ."
One of the . Americans* a ytry brave
fdfoitir*-<w»s wounded in the ikirmifti, and
unable ta .walk, when the Indians brought
him upon iheir backs for near three miies T
with a&i&udi care and attention as if he
had been dne of their ojcvn peopk.
« t • •<
As the Indians apprdachai the camp,
we *ere!afl apprized x>f thei* hnx^ngm
feme prifoncrs, by their fettkig up the
watihoop- but everyone was aitonifhed,
and* as equally pkafed^t their humanity,
hi beholding an .Indian bringing on im
featk the chief of the party. He was ,
taken before General Frafer, but would
give., no anfwer to arty queftion, and be-
haved in the moft undaunted maainer. The
General imagining that by fhewing him
attention he might: gain fome infojftnation
from him, ordered him fome refrefljment*
and
368 .IN/rERiaH iTKA-VSIA.
and when the Surgefon had examined his
wound, told hint he miifF' immediately
undergo an amputation, which being per-
formed, he was reque^Ato:keep;himfelf
ftill and quiet, or a locked jaw would ine-
vitably enfue ; to this he replied with great
firmnefs, " then I fhali have the pleafure
" of .dying in a good caufe, that of gaining
" independence to theAmerican Colonies."
I mention this circumftance, to fhew how
chearfuHyfomeof them will faerifice their
Eyes in purfiiit of this favorite idol. Such
was the man's reftlefs difpofition, that he.
actually died the next jmorning^: This-
4eatb was genefcally regretted, j asr one.
among the very few who aft . from. prin-
ciple ; had he fiirvivfid,. a different ftate-
ment of the cafe might have rendered Jiim
as ftrenuous a loyalift, ;as great a hero, as
he vy as j3l ftubborn rebel.
To thofe iwho have been averfe to our
»
employing Indians, a melancholy inftance
was
THROUGH AMfefe!6A." 369
was lately afforded, .that will afrefh fharpen
their arguihents againft the maxim, and
as the matter will certainly be greatly exag*
gerated, wheil the accounts of it arrive in
Eriglarid, I {hall delate to you the circilm*
fiance, a* it really happened, dnd clearly
point o\it the misforturie not to be the
effeft of their natural barbarity, but d
difputed point of war.
»
A young l&dy, whofe parents being Well
affe£ted to Government, had abandoned
their habitation to avoid the ill treat-
ment of the Americans, and left their
child alone in it, who, upon the approach
of our army, was determined to leave
her father's Tioufe arid join it, as a young
man, to whom Ihe was on the point of
being married, was an officer in the pro-
vincial troops. Some Indians, who were
out upon a fcout, by chance met with her
in the woods ; they at firft treated her with
every mark of civility they are capable of,
Vol. I. B b and
370 INTERIOR TRAVELS
and were ccn^du&ing her into camp ; when
within a mile of- it, a difputc arofe between
the two Indiana, whofe prifoner (he was*
and words growing very high, one of them,
who was fearful of lofing the reward for
bringing her fafe into camp, mod inhu-
manly ftruck his tomahawk into her ikull,
spid £he inftantly expired.
The fituation of the General, whofe hu-
manity w;as much fjjocked at fueh an in-
stance of barbarity, was very diftrefljng and
critical $ for however inclined he might be
to punifh the offender, ftill it was hazard-
ing the revenge of the Indians, whofe
friendfliip he had to court, rather than
to feek their enmity.
*
9
4 '
.. The Chief of the tribe to which the In-
dian belonged, readily confented to his
being delivered up to the General, to a&
yrith him as he thought proper -, but at the
fame time faid. it was the rules of their
f - • 4 *
<w< «•
war
*
fHROUGtt AMERICA. %jt
war, that if two of them at the fame in*
ftant feized a prifoner, and feemed to have
an equal claim, in cafe any difpute arofe
between them, they foon decided the con-
teft, for the unhappy caufe was fure to
become a victim to their contentiori* >
Thus fell a poor unfortunate young
lady, whofe death muft be univerfally
lamented* I atii afraid you will accufe
* me of great apathy, and conclude the fcene$
of war to have hardened my feelings, when;
I fay, that this circumftance, put in com-
petition with all the horrors attendant on
this unfortunate conteft, and which, in all
probability, are likely to increafe hourly, is
but of little moment.
The General Ihewed great refentment to
the Indians upon this occafion, and laid
reftfaints upon their difpofitions to commit
other enormities .. He was the more exa£-
B b 2 , perated/
37^ INTERIOR TRAVELS
perated, as they were Indians of the remoter
trib$s who had been guilty of this offence,
and whom he had been taught "to look
upon as more warlike. I believe, however,
he has found equal depravity of principle
reigns throughout the whole of them, and
the only pre-eminence of the remoter tribes
confifts in their ferocity.
From this time there was an apparent
change in their tempers; their ill humor
and mutinous difpofition ftrongly mani-
fefted itfelf, when they found the plunder
of the country was controuled j their inter-
preters, who had a douceur in the rapacity,,
being likewife debarred from thofe emolu-
ments, were profligate enough to promote
diffention, defertion and revolt.
In this inftance, however, Monjieuf St.
Luc is to be acquitted of thefe fedtions,
though I believe he was but too fenfible of
their
THROUGH AMERICA.' 373
their pining after the accuftomed horrors,
and that they were become as impatient of
his controul as of all other : however, thro*
the pride and intereft of authority, and at
the fame time the affe£tionate love he bore
to his old affociates, he was induced to
cover the real caufe under frivQlous pre-
tences of complaint.
On the 4th inftant, at the prefling in-
stance of the above gentleman, a council
was called, when, to the General's great
aftonifhment, thofe nations he had the
dire&ion of, declared their intention of fe-
turning home, at the fame time demanding
the General to concur with and aflift them.
This event was extremely embarraffing, as
it was giving up part of the force which
had beep obtained at a great expence to
Government, and from whofe affiftance
fo much was looked for : on the other hand,
♦
if a cordial reconciliation was made with
them, it muft be by an indulgence in all
B b 3 their
374 INTERIOR TRAVELS
their pxceffes of blood and rapine. Never-
thelefs the General was to give an imme^
diate anfwer ; he firmly refufed their pro-
pofal, infilled upon their adherence to the
refhaints that had been eftabliftied, and
at the fame time, in a temperate manner,
reprefented to them their ties of faith, of
generality and honor, adding many other
' perfuafive arguments, to encourage them in,
continuing their fervices.
This anfwer feemed to have fome weight
>Vith them, as , many of the tribes neareft
home only begged, that fome part of them
might be permitted to return to their har-
veil, which was granted. Some of the re-
mote tribes feemed to retraft from their
propofal, profefling great zeal for the fer-
vice.
NQtwithftanding this, to the aftonifh-*
ment of the General, and every one be-
longing to the army, the defertion took
/ . . place
THROUGH AMERICA.* %J$
i
place the next day, when they went away '
by (cores, loaded with fuch plunder as they
had collefted, and have continued to do fo
daily, till fcarce one of thofe that joined us"
at SJtenefborough is left,
. It is with great pleafure I acquaint you
that Major Ackland is fo far recovered, as
to affume his command of tlie grenadiers ;
he arrived at the camp yefterday, accom-
panied by the amiable Lady Harriet, 'who,
in the opening of the campaign, was re-
(trained, by the pofitive injun&ion of her
hufband, from (haring the fatigue and
hazard that was expefted before Ticonde-
roga. But fhe no fooner heard that the
Major was wounded, than fhe croffed Lake
Champlain to join him, determined to fol-
low his fortunes the remainder of the cam-
paign*
•«.
That your partner in. the connubial
ftate, fhould you be induced to change
B b 4 your
Ij6 INTERIOR TRAVELS
your fituation, may prove as affe&ionate,
and evince as tender an anxiety for your
welfare, as Lady Harriet, on all occafions
ihews for that of the Major, is the ardent
wifh of
Yoijrs, fcc.
LET-
THROUGH AMERICA. 377
BETTER XXXVI,
Camp at Fort EJ-want, Aug. 8, 1777*
MY PEAR FRIEND,
TTT TE ftill remain at this encampment,
* * till provifions are brought up to
enable us to move forward, and notwith-
ftanding thefe delays in our convoys and
ftores, it will certainly be thought we remain
too long for an army whofe bufinefs is to
aft offenfively, and whofe firft motion, ac-
cording to the maxims of war, fhould con-
tribute, as foon as poflible, to the execution
of the intended expedition.
I know
378 INTERIOR fRAVELB
I know it will be the general obfervation
in England, that we ought, after we had
penetrated thus far, to have made our way
to Albany by rapid marches, it being no
more than fifty miles diftant from this
place. In this inftance it is to b& confi-
dered, how the troops are to pafs two great
rivers, the Hudfon and the Mohawk, with-
out batteauxy to form a bridge, or water-
raft, to convey large bodies at once, even
admitting the contrivance of a bridge of
rafts to pafs the Hudfon, and truft to
chance for the paffage of the Mohawk, or
in cafe of a difappointment, recourfe to be
had to the fords at Schenectady \ which are
fifteen miles from the mouth of the river,
and are fordable, except after heavy rains :
removing all thefe impediments, for a
rapid march the foldier muft of courfe be
exempted from all perfonal incumbrances,
and reprefented as juft marching from a
parade in England, for nothing, can be
more repugnant to the ideas of a rapid
march,
THROUGH AMERICA. yjq
march, than the load a foldier generally
carries during a campqjgn, confiding of a
knapfack, a blanket, a haverfack that con-
»
tains his provision, a canteen for water, a
hatchet, and a proportion of the equipage
belonging to his tent ; thefe articles, (and
for fuch a march there cannot be lefs than
four days provifion) added to his accoutre-
ments, arms, and fixty rounds of ammu-
nition, make an enormous bulk, weighing
about fixty pounds . As the Germans muft
be included in this rapid march, let me
point out the incumbrance they are loaded
with, exclufive of what I have already de-
fcribed, efpecially their grenadiers, who
have,, in addition, a cap with a very heavy
brafs front, a fword of an enormous fize,
a canteen that cannot hold lefs than a gal-
lon, and their coats very long fkirted. Pic-*
ture to yourfelf a man in this fituation,
and how extremely well calculated he is
for a rapid march.
It
380 INTERIOR TRAVELS
It may be urged, that the men might be
relieved from a confiderable part of this
burthen, and that they might march free
from knapfacks and camp equipage, being
divefted of which, they might have carried
more provifion. Admitting this it would
not remedy the evil, it being with great dif-
ficulty you can prevail on a common foldier
to hufband his provifion, in any exigency
whatever. Even in a fettled camp, a young
foldier has very fliort fare on the fourth
day after he receives his provifion ; and on
a march, in bad weather and bad roads,
when theweary foot flips back at every ftep,
and a curfe is provoked by the enormous
weight that retards him, it muft be a very
patient veteran, who has experienced much
fcarcity and hunger, that is not tempted
to throw the whole contents of his haver-
>
fack into the mire, inftances of which I
few on feveral of our marches. When
they thought they fhould get frefh provi-
fion
THROUGH AMERICA. 381
(ion at the next encampment, and that only
when they were loaded with four days pro-
vifion : the foldiers reafon in this manner :
the load is a grievous incumbrance — want
but a little way off— and I have often heard
them exclaim, " Damn th* provifions, we
5 C fhall get more at the next encampment ;
cc the General won't let his foldiers flarve."
*
Confiftent with the idea of rapidity, it
is neceffary to carry forward more provi-
fion than for bare fuftenance during the
march, or how were the men to fubfift
when they arrived at Albany, where the
Americans will certainly make a ftand ? but
even fuppofing they fhould not, they will
of courfe drive off all the cattle, and deftroy
the corn and corn-mills ; this can only be
efFe&ed by carts, which could not keep
pace with the army, there being only one
road from Albany for wheel-carriage, and
in many places there are deep and wide
gullies*
382 INTERIOR TRAVELS
gullies, where the bridges are broken, and
muft neceffarily be repaired. This road is
bounded on one fide by the river, and on
the other by perpendicular afcents, covered
with wood, where the enemy might not
only greatly Sftnoy, but where, in one
night, they could throw impediments in
our way, that would take nearly the whole
of the next day to remove, therefore every
idea of conveying more provifion than the
men could carry on their backs muft ceafe,
as the time and labor in removing thefe
obftru&ions, and making new roads for the
carts to pafs, before they could reach the
army, would inevitably be the caufe of a
famine, or the army muft retreat. All
notion of artillery is totally laid afide, as
in the prefent ftate of the roads, not the
imalleft ammunition tun\bril could be car-
ried with the army.
. .There are itiany who may be led away
With- the ideas of a rapid march, and fay
that
THROUGH AMERICA* 383
«
that artillery is ufelefs i bufe : they can only
form their opinion ftonat the warmth of
their wifhes. It is impoflihle to judge, or
form S^ppinion^ unlefs. upon the fpot,
for, peaking within compafe, there are not
lefs than a dozen ftrong paffes, fetrimg
afide the paffage of the Mohawk ; where,
Tf ftrengthened with abbatis, which $ie
Americans are expert in making, as' thejr
never encamped a fingle night without
throwing up works, of this fefrt in a> few
hours, five hundred of their militia would
flop, for a time, tea* times their number of
the, braveft troops, in. the worlds . who had
not aartiUe?y to affift them.
Having ffcated thefe objections to the
principles, and practicability of a rapid
march, you cannot but be fully convinced
how neceflary it is to advance with a fuffi-
cient fupply of ftores, both of artillery and
provifions *. and irt order to gain a great
fupply
384 INTERIOR TRAVELS
fupply of the latter, as well as to provide
fome teams and oxen, a detachment is going
to Bennington, to furprize a magazine of
the enemy's, which will enable the army to
proceed without delay, and its Commander
to profecute the objeft of his expedition.
Certainly the fituation of the General is
extremely trying, however zealoufly he is
inclined, and anxious in compleating the
objedfc of his command. For one hour
that he can devote in contemplating how
to fight his army, he muft allot twenty to
contrive how to feed it ! This inconve-
nience the enemy have not to encounter,
as their army is fpeedily and regularly fup-
plied with every thing, by means of their
navigable rivers, which communicate from
province to province. An American Ge-
neral has only to teach his men to fight,
(that's a pretty difficult talk you'll fay) he
is never at a lofs how to feed them.
It
THROUGH AMERICA; , j8$
It is, from the various drcumfiahces I
have ftated, greatly to be wiftied, that the
minds of fome men were more open to
conviction, to form their opinions with the.
greater liberality of fentiment,
A few days finte I Went from this to
Fort George, relative to fome artillery
ftores, at which place I had an opportu-
nity of, feeing Lake George, which, altho*
confiderably fmaller than Lake Champlain,
in my opinion exceeds it far in point of
beauty and diverfity of fcene.
About the center of the lake there ar^ s
two iflands, on the largeft of which, called
Diamond Ifland, are encamped two compa-
nies of the 47th regiment, under the com-
mand of Captain Aubrey, for the purpofe
of forwarding the provifions acrofs the
l^ke. This ifland, as well as the one that
is clofe to it, formerly was fo over-run with
rattler fnakes, that perfons when they pafled
Vol. I. C c the
$86; iiJTERron travels
the take feidom or ever ventured on them.
A tatteaufC in foiling up it, overfet near
Diamond Ifland, and among other things
it contained feveral hogs, which fwam to
the fhore, as did the Canadians who were
rowing it up : the latter, in apprehenfion
of the rattie-fhakes, climbed up trees for
the night, and the next morning obferving
a battewx, they hailed the people in it, who
took them in an4 conveyed them to Fort
George.
Some time after the man who owned the
hogs, being unwilling to lofe them, return-
ed down the lake, and with fome comrades
ventured a fearch. After traverfing the
ifland a considerable time, they at laft found
them, but fo prodigioufty fat, that they
could fcarcely move > and in their fearch
only met with one xattle-lhake, which
greatly furprized them, as the ifland was
reported to abound. Their wonder, how
ever, was hot of long duration, for being
: fhort
f flROtt&H AMERICA^ 387
fhort df provifions, they killed one of the
hogs, the ftonlach of which W&s filled with
rattie-fiiakes, and from this circumftance
it wis natural to conclude the hogs had de-
voured them fihce their landing.
This was related to me by a perfon on
whofe veracity I can depend, and feveral
of the inhabitants have informed me fince,
that if a hog happens to meet a rattle-
fnake, it will immediately attack and de-
vour it.
As I am on the fubjeft of rattle-fnakes,
and this country greatly abounding with
them, permit me to defcribe to you thofe
reptiles, which I am the better enabled to
do, having feen one killed yefterday. It
was about a yard long, and about three
inches in circumference, in its thickeftpart j
it had feven rattles at the end of its tail,
and according to the number of thefe
Cc2 rattles,
388^ INTERIOR TRAYEH
rattles, . its age is aftiertained, every year
producing. an additipnal one, fixed by. a;
fmall ligament withift the other, and:
being hollow, the quick .motion of the tail,
occafions 3 noife fo peculiar to itfelf, that
I cannot mention any thing fimilar to it.
The ffcales *>f thefe rattle-fnakes iare of
variegated cplors, and extremely beautiful,
the head is - fmall, with a very quick and
piercing : eye; $ their flefh, notwithftanding
the venom they are poffefled of, is very de-
licious, far fuperior to that of an eel, and
produces a very rich foup.
The bite of thefe reptiles is certain death,
unlefs proper remedies are applied. Pro-
vidence has been fo attentive to our prefer-
vation (a pretty remark you'll fay this, to
come from a foldier, who is contributing
daily his affiftance to the destroying and
maiming hundreds), that near to where
thefe reptiles refort> there grows a plant,
with a large broad leaf, called plaintain>
which
THROUGH AMERICA. 389^
which being bruifeH and applied -to the
wound, is a fure antidote to the ill effects
of its venom.- The virtues • of this -plant
were difcovered -by anegro in Virginia, for
which Jie obtained his liberty aind a jpenfion
for life. * -
• • r
» • «■
This difcovery, like many others equally
Jurprizing, v was the mere efFe£l of chance.
This poor negro having been bit by one
of thefe fnakes, in the leg, it fwelled in an
inftant to fuch a degree, that he was un-
able to walk ; lying down on the grafs in
great anguifh, he gathered fome of this
plant, and chewing it, applied it to the
wound, imagining it would cool the in-
flammation; this giving him inftant re-
lief, he renewed the application feveral
tinjes, and the fwelling abated, fo as io
enable him to walk home to his matter's
plantation; after repeating the fame for
the fpace of two or three # days, he was
perfectly recovered.
CC3 But
39° INTERIOR TRAVEL*
But however furrounded I may be with
venomous reptiles, the clank of arms, and
horrors of war, reft afUjred that neither
diftance, time, nor place, can erafc the idoi
of friendfhip, nor the fweet thought? of
what is left behind ever be leflened in the
bread of
Yours, Sec.
LBT-
^»RO«G:H AM*iHCAr J9I
LETTER XXXVII.
Camp at Ratten Kill* Jugufi 24, 1777.
MY DEAR FRIEND,
IT is with the utmoft confetti I tell you
the expedition to Bennington has fail-'
cd, and great numbers made prisoners :
This no doubt will be a matter of great
exultation to the Americans, and diveft
thern of thofe fears they had entertained
of the German troops, eQ>ecially as they
have been defeated by a fet of raw militia.-
In this enterprize the General left nothing
for chance to do, but planned every thing
his wiiHom could fuggeft to efFeft it, and
the projeft would have anfwered many
Q c 4 defirable
392 INTERIOR TRAVELS \
j
defirable ends, had the execution of it
proved as fortunate as the plan was judi-
cious.
In fome former letter I laid much ftrefs
againft a rapid movement, and endeavored
to point out to you the total impradticabi-
lity of it. I need only add another argu-
ment to imprefs you fully with the fame
fentiments. The army could no more
proceed without hofpital ftores, than it
could without provifions, for depend upon
it," the General who carries troops into fire,
without precautions to alleviate the certain
confequences, is fure to alienate their af-
fe&ions, and damp their ardor ; it is ex-
a&ing more than human fpirit is able to
fuftain. It is not neceflary for you to be
accuftomed to fields of battle, to be con-
vinced of truth ; let your mind only reft
for a moment on the objetts that prefent
themfelves after an aftion, and then re-
fleft, there is not a mattrafs for broken
bones,
th^ou-o'iI AMfe'Ri£A. T 393
bones; nor -a cordial for agony arid Faint-
nefs. Thbfe wlibfe 'Ideas! are con&traaHy
marching with a~much greater : rapidity
than evferan afniy did, fuppofe no 6ppo- :
fition, and- rid fufferfrig- from wbutidsJ
The mariy^ helplefs ' aiid in agonies'" who
muft be; cruelly abandoned ( fuppolthg the
reft could be prevailed on to abandon thofe
whofe : cafe might* the next day be thteir
own) make no corifideratioh with'mehrof
precipitate iriiaginatidn; I fhall dbfe this
fubjeft with bbfervirig," that in my opi-
nion, a General is relpohfible to God and
his country -for the armies' he coridu&s,
and that he cannot eafify overlook thefe*
obje&S • : however anxious he may be; "he
imSft be patient -till a few*^iundred feeds,
and a proper proportion of medirinerahft
chirurgkal materials/ can be brought up
for troops r that are to jight as weM as"
marck. k
r
In
394 INTERIOR TRAVELS
In order to take advantage of the fuo
cefe that was expe&ed from the expedition
to Bennington, the army moved to the
eaft fide of Hudibn's river, and on the
14th, a bridge df rafts was conftru&ed,
over which the advanced corps paffed, and
encamped on the heights at Saratoga.
* *
Whatever was the caufe of the failure
of the expedition to Bennington, of which
many appear, the principal one feems to
have been the delay of the reinforcement
that was fent to fupport the firft detatch-
ment, which was from eight o'clock in
the morning to four o'clock in tfye after-
noon of next day, marching two and
twenty miles ; the advanced corps, not only
at the time the Germans were lent, but at
the failure of it, felt themfelve? much
hurt, thinking it was a duty they pught
to have been employed on, and it was not
till after its failure, that impreflion was
ended
THROUGH AME-RICA, 395
erafedfrom their minds, by being inform-
ed thejf were refcrved for more important
iervices^ for in cafe that expedition had
proved fucecfsful, the advanced corps were
to , hsfw ; p^fhed forward to the heights
of Still- Water, and intrenched there;
till the army and provifions could have
joined j by this means- the whole country
on the weft fide of the river to the banks
of the Mohawk* would have been in our
j * . » ...
«' r
I
A few days after - w$ had encamped at
the heights of Saratoga, the bridge of rafts
wa£ parried away by the torrents occafion-
ed by the late heavy f^ll of raiji, and our
communication cut off. from the main
body* Jf the enemy after the late fucceffes,
in our prefect fituation, had b^en induced
to attack us, the General would have found
hirnfclf in a very bad pofition, and un-
able to take a better, as the advanced
corps could not be fupportcd by the line *
the
396 fNTERIO* TRAVELS
the only means of retreat would have been
under the cover of ofcr artillery, therefore
our corps were recalled, after the a&ion
at Bennington, and were obliged to <rofs
the river in boats and fcowls, and take up
our old encampment at this place.
The Mohawk nation, which are called
Sir William Johnfon's Indians, as having
their village near his plantation, and who,
in his life-time, was continually f amongfl
them, were driven from their village by
the Americans, and have joiiied our army:
they have come with their jquaws, children,
cattle, horfej and fheep, and are encathpetf
at the creek from whence this place t&es
its name ; when the army crofi the 'river,'
thcfquaws and children are to go tot Ca-
nada, and the men to remain. v ' •
• ■ >
Upon: their arrival I vifited them at
their encampment, and had an ! opportu-
nity • of ; t>bfervihg the haiddt thty J ^d6pt> in'
training
•THROUGH AMERICA* 397
training up their children. They are in
a manner amphibious > there were feveral
o£ the men bathing in the creek ; and a
number of little children,, the eldeft could
not be more that fix years old, and thele
little creatures had got into , the middle of
the creek upon planks, which they ped-
dled along, fometimes fitting, then land-
ing on them, and if they overbalance the
plank, and flip off with a dexterity almoft
incredible, they get on it again 5 as tp. div-
ing, they will keep a confiderable time
under water, nearly two or three minutes.
The mode of confining their young
infants, is by binding them flat on their
backs tcf a^ board, and as they are fwad-
dled up to their head, it makes them re-
femble living mummies 3 this method of
binding their young, I am led to imagine,
is die caufe of that ; perfeft fymmetry
among the men. , A deformed Indian is
rare to be jnet with; the women would
be
3$8 ifeTERldft TRAVEL^
be equally as pei&ft, but as thef grow
up, they acquire a habit, it being (feemed
an ornament, of fo turning in the feet, that
their toes almoft meetj the fqurtm> after
the have fuckled their infants, if they fall
afieep, lay them on the ground, if not
they hang the board they are fwaddled to
on the branch of a tree, and fwing them
tiH they do; upon a march, they tie
theft boards, with their infants, on their
backs.
As the river is fubjeft to continual tor-* v
rents and increafe of water, a bridge of
boats is now conftru&ing, to preferve a
communication with both fides of the river,
which when compleated, the advanced
corps are to pafe over, and encamp at
Saratoga.
I am interrupted by the cries of fome
Indians who are fetting up the war whoop,
on their bringing in prifoners.
When.
When they arrive, as they imagine, in
hearing of the camp, they fet up the war
whoQp, as many times as they have -num-
ber of prifoners. It is dj^kult to describe
it to you, and the beft idea that I can con-
vey is, that it confifts in the found of
<
wboo t whM, whwpl which is continued tilt
the breath is atmoft exhaufted, and then
broke off with a fudden elevation of voice j
fbme of them modulate it into notes, by
placing the hand before- the mouth, but
both are heard ait a great diftance.
Whenever they fcalp, they feize the
head of the difabled or dead enemy, and
placing one of their feet on the neck, twift
their left hand in the hair, by which means
they extend the fldn that covers the top o£
the head, and with the other hand draw*
their fcalpirtg knife from their breaft,*
which is always kept in good order, for"
this cruel purpofe, a few dextrous ftrokes
of which takes off the part that is termed the*
fcalp;
400 JNTBRIO* TRAVELr
fcalp i they are fo exceedingly expeditious
in doing this, that it fcarcely exceeds 4
minute. If the hair is fhort, and they have
no purchafe with their hand, they ftoop,
and with their teeth ftrip it off; when they
have performed this part of their martial
virtue, as foon as time permits, they tie
with bark or deer's finews their, {peaking
trophies of blood in a finall hoop, to pre-
ferve it from putrefaftion, painting part of.
the fcalp and the hoop air round with red.
Thefe they preferve as monuments of their
prowefs, and at the fame time as proofs of
the vengeance they have inflifled on their
enemies.
At one of the Indian encampments, I
few feveral fcalps hanging upon poles,
in front of their wigwams-, one of them
had remarkably fine lpng hair hanging to
k. An officer that w.as with me wanted
s
to purchafe it, at which the Indian feemed
highly offended, nor would he part with
this
THROUGH AMERICA. 4OL
this barbarous trophy, although he was
offered fo flrong a . temptation as a bottle
of rum*
The appearance of Li dead body,, you
muft allow, is not a pleafing fpe&acte, but
when fcalped it is fhockiftgj two, in this »
Situation, we met with, in our march from
Skenefborough to Fort Edward. After fo
cruel an operation, you could hardly fup*
i 1
pofe any one could fufvive, but ' when we
took poifeffion of Ticonderoga, we found
two poor fellows who lay wounded, that
had been fcalped in the Ikirmifh the day
before the Americans abandoned it, and
who are in a fair way of recovery. I have
feen a peffon who had been fcalped, and
was as hearty as ever, but his hair never
grew again.
* ■ ' . . - - . . » » <
Should I at any time be unfortunate
enough to get wounded, and the Indians
come acrofs me, with an intention %o fcalp,
Vol. I. Dd it
402 INTERIOR TRAVELS
it would be my wifh to receive at once a
coup de grace with their tomahawk, which
in moft inftances they mercifully allow.
This inftrtiment they make great life of
in war, for in purfuing an enemy, if they
find it impoflible to come up with them,
they with the utmoft dexterity throw, and
feldoih fail ftriking it into the ikull or back
of thofe they purfue* by that means ar-
refting them in flight. The tomahawk is
nothing more than a fmall hatchet, having
either a (harp {pike, or a cup for tobacco,
affixed oppofite to the part that is intended
for cutting, but they are moftly made to
anfwer two purpofes, that of a pipe and a
hatchet. When they purchafe them of the
traders, they take, ojF the wooden handle,
and fubftitute in its ftead a hollow cane
one, which they do in a curious manner*
I make no doubt but; it will afford you
great pleafure, knowing how much you
are
THROUGH AMERICA.
40$
a.
are interefted in my welfare, when I inform
you that I have had fome promotion, and
it is the more fatisfa&ory to myfelf, as I
am not removed out of the advanced corps,
it being into the 24th regiment. If I efcape
this campaign, either through intereft or
purchafe, there are hopes of obtaining a
company. With my beft wiflies for your
health and happinefs, I am
<.
Yours, &c.
Dd2
LET-
404 .INTERIOR TRAVELS
LETTER. XXXVIII.
> 1
Camp at Freeman's Farm, Sept. 24, 1777*
MY DEAR FRIEND,
*Tp H E bridge of boats was foon con-
•*■ ftru&ed, and thirty days provifion
brought up for the whole army. On the
13th inftant, we paffed Hudfon's river,
and encamped in the plains of Saratoga,
at which place there is a handfome and
commodious dwelling-houfe, with out-
houfes, an exceeding fine faw and grift-
mill, and at a fmall diftance a very neat
church, with feveral houfes round it, all of
which are the property of General Schuy-
leV. This beautiful fpot was quite deferted,
not
THROUGH AMERICA* 4-0$
" t
not a living creature on it. On the grounds
were great quantities of fine wheat, asalfo
Indian corn ; the former was inftantly cut
down, threfhed, carried to the mill to be
ground, and delivered to the men to fave
our provifions ; the latter was cut for fo-
rage for the horfes.
% ■+ *
Thus a plantation, with large crops of
fever^l forts of grain* thriving aand beauti-
ful in the mornifcg, was before night re-
duced to a fcene of diftrefs and poverty !
What havoc and devaltetteto w attendant
*
on war! Your <:offee-ho»fe acquaintance
vjrhb fight battles' over a bottle of wine,
and di&ate what armies fhould do, were
danger only to fhew itfelf upon your coaft,
and threaten an invafiori, would inftantly,
like the poffeffors of this delightful i|>ot, \y£
flying to the moft interior* parte of the
kingdom.
♦
P d 3 On
s
406 INTERIOR TRAVELS
'On the 15th the whole army made a
movement forward, and encamped at a
place called Dwactff.
I omitted to mention a fad accident that
happened to that amiably woman, Lady
Harriet Ackland, a little hefbre we paffed
Hudfon's river, which neither has altered
her refolution npr her chearfulnefs, hut
fhe continues her progf ef9; partaking the
fatigues of the advanced corps.
*
* 1
Our fituation, as being fhe advanced poft
of the army, was frequently fo very alert,
that we feldom flppt out of our cloaths.
In one of thefe fituations a tent, in which
Major Ackland and Lady Harriet were
afleep, fuddenly caught fire; the Major's
orderly ferjeant, with, great danger of fuf-
focation, dragged out the firfl perfon he
got hold of, which was the Major. It
providentially happened, that in the fame
inftant Lady Harriet, without knowing
what
THROUGH AMERICA. 407
what fhe did, and perhaps not perfe&ly
awake, made her efcape, by creeping under
the walls in the back part of the tent, and
upon recovering her fenfes, conceive what
her feelings muft be, when the firft objedfc
fhe beheld was the Major, in the midft of
the flames, in fearch of her ! The ferjeant
again faved him, but the Major's face and
body was burnt in a very fevere manner :
every thing they had with them in the
tent was confumed. This accident was
occafioned by a favorite Newfoundland
dog, who being very reftlefs, overfet a table
on which a candje was burning, (the Ma-
jor always ha4 a light in his tent during
the night, when our fituation required it)
and it rolling to the walls of the tent, in-
ftantly fet them on fire.
On tHe 17th the army renewed their
march, repairing a great number of bridges,
and encamped on a very advantageous
ground, at the diftance of about four miles
P d 4 from
408 INTERIOR TRAVELS
from the enemy, who are ftrongly potted at
Still-Water.
At our laft encampment a circumftance
occurred, which though trifling in itfelf,
marks how provident nature has been to the
younger part of the brutie creation. It is
the cuftom in camp to picket the holies in
the rear of the tents : in the night I was
awaked with a great ruftling of my tent
cords, and a fqueaking noife ; on getting
up, I found it was a little colt that my
mare had foaled. When we refumed our
march the next day, I was much embar-
raffed what to do with the colt, fearful it
would weaken my mare, and render her
unable to convey my baggage, biit I would
not have it deftroyed ; and, believe me, this
little creature, only dropped the night be T
fore, though in a journey of fuch a diftance
as feventeen miles, through thick woods
and bad roads, was as gay and chearful,
when we arrived at our encampment, as if
it
THROUGH AMERICA*; 409
if had been in a meadow, after which, you
may be fare, I could not find in my heart
to make away with k.. . . ~ .
* *
On ~ the 1 8th, the enfemjr appeared : in
force, to obftruft the men who were re-
pairing the bridges, and it ; was imagined
they had a defign of drawing us to aftion,
in a fpot where artillery could s not be em-
ployed; a ftnall lofs was fuftained inikuv
mifhing, and the repair of the bridges was
efie6ted« : ' r I'M '<- -. .
-f ■ • • • -
At this encampment a number of men
got into a potatoe-fteid, and whilff gather-
ing them, a fcouting Jparty of the enemy
came acrofs and fired on them, killing and
wounding near thirty, .when they might
with eafehave furrounded;the whole party>
and taken them priforiers. Such cruel and
unjuftifiable condufl can have no good ten-
dency, while it ferves greatly to increafe
hatred, and a thirft for revenge.
On
4IO INTERIOR TRAVELS
On the "19th) the army marched to meet
the enemy, in three divifions *, the German
line flanked the artillery and baggage* pur-
fuing the courfe of the river through the
meadows ; the Britifh line marched parallel
to it at Come diftance, through the woods,
forming the center divifion; whilft the
advanced corps, with the grenadiers and
light infantry of the Germans made a large
circuit through the woods, and compofed
the right hand divifion s on our right there
were flanking parties of Indians,. Cana-
dians and Provincials*
•
The fignal gun§ for all the columns to
advance were fired between one and two
o'clock, and after an hour's, march, the
advanced party, confifting of the pibqueta
of the center column, under the command
of Major Forbes, fell in with a confider-,
able body of the enemy, pbfted in a houfe
and behind fences, which they attacked,-
and after much firing, nearly dtove in the
body
THROUGH AMERICA. 4II
body of the Americans, but the woods
being filled wkh men, much annoyed the
picquets, who were very fortunately fup-
ported by two companies of the, 24th regi-
ment, one of which happened to be our
company, and a piece of artillery, which
Gener?d Frafer had detached, on hearing
the fire of Major Forbes's party, and we
came up juft as the enemy fled.
. In this fkirmifti, a bat-man of General
Frafer's refcued from the Indians, an officer
of the Americans, one Captain Van Swear-
ingham, of Colonel Morgan's Virginia
• rifle-men ; they were on the point of ftripr
ping him, which the man prevented,, and
recovered his pocket-book froiri them, 'Con-
taining all his papers of confequence and
his commiflion. He offered the ibldier all
his paper dollars, and lamented he had no
hard ones to reward Bim with.
The
412 INTERIOR TRAVELS
The bat-man brought him up to Gene-
ral Frafer (who now had come up to the
two companies he had detached) when he
interrogated him concerning the enemy,
but could obtain no other aniwer, than
that their army was commanded by Gene-
rals Gates and Arnold. General Frafer,
exceedingly provoked that he could gain
no intelligence, told him if he did not
immediately inform him as to the exaft
Situation of the enemy, he would hang him
him up dire&ly $ the officer, with the moft
undaunted firmnefs, replied, " You may,
" if you pleafe." The General perceiving
he could make nothing of him; fode off,
leaving him in the cuftody of Lieutenant
Dunbar, of the artillery.
My fervant, juft at this period, arrived
■with my canteen, which was rather for-
tunate, as we flood; in need of feme re-
frefhment after our march through the
. woods,
«
cc
THROUGH AMERICA, 413
wotods, and this Uttle flrirmifli. Irequefted
Dunbar, with his prifoner, to partake of
it, and fitting down upon a tree, we afeed
this Captain a variety of queftions, to
which he always gave evafive anfwers, and
we both obferved he was in great ipirits :
at laft Ifaid to him, " Captain/ do you
" think we fliall have any more work upon
our hands to day?" to which he replied^
Yes, yes, you'll have bufitfefs enough,
" for therfe are many hundreds all round
" yqti now." He had hardly fpoke the
Words, than from a wood a little way in
our front there came an exceffive heavy
fire. Dunbar ran to his gunsj faying
A- , you muft take charge of the Cap*
tain. There being only one officer, be-
fides myfelf, with the company, I com-
mitted him to the cuftody of a ferjeant, to
convey him to the houfe where the reft of
the prifoners were, with particular orders,
as the Geher'al had defired, that he ihould
not be ill treated; I then Jiaft^ned to my
<iompany^
4-14 INTERIOR TRAVELS
company, on joining of which I met a
number of the men who were retiring
wounded, and by this time the firing of
the enemy was fuppreffed by the artillery.
Shortly after this we heard a moft tre-
mendous firing upon our left, where
we were attacked in great force, and the
very firft fire, your old friend, Lieutenant
Don, of the 21ft regiment, received a ball
through his heart. I am fure it will never
be erafed it from my memory ; for when
he was wounded, he fprung from the
ground, nearly as high as a man. The
party that had attacked us were again
drove in by our cannon, but the fire raged
moft furioufly on our left, and the enemy
were marching to turn their right flank,
when they met the advanced corps, ported
in a wood, who repulfed them. 'From
that time, which was about three o'clock,
till after fun-fet, the enemy, who were
continually fupplied with frefh troops,
moft
THROUGH AMERICA* 415
moft vigoroufly attacked the Britifli line :
the ftrefslay upon the 20th, 21ft, and 6 2d
regiments, moft part of which were en-
gaged for near four hours, without inter-
million. The grenadiers and 24th regi-
ment, as well as part of the light infantry,
were at times engaged.* In the conflift
the advanced corps could only act par-
tially and occafionally, as it was deemed
unadvifeable to evacuate the heights where
they were advaiitageouily pofted.
General Phillips, at a very critical
period, when the Britifh line was hard
preffed, by a great fuperiority of fire,
brought up four pieces of artillery, which
. reftored the a&ion, and gallantly led up
to the zpth regiment, at the utmoft hazard
of his perfon.
t »
General Reidefel exerted himfelf , brought
wp rthe Germans, and arrived in time to
charge the enemy with great bravery.
Juft
4*6 INTERIOR TRAVELS
Juft as the evening clofed in; the enemy
gave way one all fides and left us matters
of the field, but darknefs prevented a
purfuit.
The troops lay that night upon their
arms, and the next day took a pofition
nearly within cannon-fhot of the enemy ;
we have fortified our right, and our left
extends to the brow of the heights, fo
as to cover the meadows, by the river fide,
where the batteaux and hofpitals are placed.
The 47th regiment, with the regiments
of Heffe Hartal are encamped in the
meadows, as a farther fecurity.
The great valor difplayed by the Britifh
troops encountering many obftruftions,
and fuch a powerful enemy, as, from the
account of the prifoners, they had nearly
treble our numbers in the field, and the
great advantage of receiving inftant Vdn-
forcements, muft, in the eyes of thofe
who
THROUGH AMERICA. 4 1 7
who judge impartially, reflett the higheft
honor.
Notwithftandittg the glory pf the day
remains on our fide, ' I am fearful the real
advantages refulting from this hard-fought
battle, will reft, on that of the Ameii*
can,, our army heing fo much weakened
by this engagement, as not to be of Effi-
cient ftrength to venture forth and im-
prove the vidtory, which may, in the eqd»
put a ftop to our intended expedition ; the
only apparent benefit .gained, is* that we
keep pofleffipn of the ground where the
engagement began*
This fevere-fought tattle* and the con-
fequences refulting from it, will fuily con-
firm the arguments I pointed out to you
relative to a rapid march. The viftory
muft inevitably have been on the fide of
the Americans* without our artillery, and
what a wretched ftate. muft: the many brave
Vol. L E e foldiers
%t8 H^frfclU'©*- tltAVEL-S-
Mfabfc & in, wtthotit afiy comfort, or aft
hofpital to remove them to I
Thfe cdurtigfe arid 6K&itf^r «&h which
i » • • *
&c -Am&icahs bought, were >the aftonifh-
%fcht xk every cfete, and- we now become
-ftflfy cdhvineed, they ^are not that con-
^fefaptibYe ^riethy we had hitherto 'imagined
"ttieAi, nritk^alile afftaheftng a regular en-
gagement, ^ttd-thdt theftoOttld only r fight
« behmW fHfoiig'&iml powerful worics.
v. ■ . ,
We : h&ve loft -many irfaxre inen, and
among that iitrtnber is to be fomented
Captain Jones, of the "artillery , ^srho was
killed at his brigade of guns. The artil-
* leiy of -the %riny diftihguifhed themfelves
^rcJatly, btit'fhis brigade : in particular, the
"dfiiders *^hd rmeh iUtioned at thofe guns
/being all killed and wounded, eftcept Licu-
"ieft&nt ftaclden, who had a very narrow
~efcape, his cap'being^ fhotaway as he was
' fpiking'iip^the- camion. ■ * -
- • •-- '- ~ ... having
*r-r\
THROVGH AMERICA* 4IJ
Having juft received orders to attend a
working-party, to throw up a redoubt, I
am obliged to defer a further account of
this engagement till my next. It will no
doubt afford you much pleafore to hear,
that in this fevere attion I have efcaped
unhurt.
Yquts, See.
Eez LET-
A
420 INTERIOR TRAVELS
LETTER XXXIX.
Camp at Freeman* t Farm, 08.6, 1777.
MY DEAR FttlEND,
WE have gained little more by our,
viftory than honor, the Americans
working with inceilant labor to ftrengthen
their left ; their right is already unattack-
able. Inftead of a difheartened and flying
enemy, we have to encounter a numerous,
and, as we lately experienced, a refolutc
one, equally difpofed to maintain their
ground as ourfelves, and commanded by
Generals whofe activity leave no advan-
tages unimproved.
The
THROUGH AMERICA. 42 1
The day after our late engagement, I had
as unpleafant a duty as can fall to the lot
of an officer, the command of the party
fent out to bury the dead and bring in the
wounded, and as we encamped on the fpot
where the three Britifh regiments had been
«
engaged, they were very numerous. In a
former letter I defcribed to you the fenfa-
tions both before and after a battle, but in .
fuch an employment, as this the feelings are
routed to the litmoft pitch. You that are
pleafed to compliment me on my humanity,
will think what I muft have felt, oij feeing
fifteen, fixteen, and twenty buried in one
hole. I however obferved a little more de-
cency than fome parties had done, who left
heads, legs and arms above ground; No
other diftin&ion is paid to officer or. foldier,
than that the officers are put in a hole by
themfelves. Our army abounded with
young officers, \n the fubaltern line, and in
the courfe of this unpleafant duty, three of
the 20th regiment, were interred together,
Ee3 the
4$£ I-NTERIO* TRAVELS
«
fee age of the eldeft not exceeding feventecn.
This friendly office to the dead, though k
greatly affe&s the feelings, was nothing to
thtf (bene in bringing in the wounded ; the
one* were paft all pain, the other in the
»
moft excruciating torments, fending forth
flfeadf ul groans. , They had remained out
all night, and frorti the lofs of blood and
want of nouriflimerit', were upori the pbiht
of expiring with fairitriefe : feme of them
begged they might lay and die; others again
were inftnfible, fome upon thei feaft rtibve-
ment \frere put in the mbft horrid tortures,
and all had near a mile to be conveyed to
the hofpitals s others at their laft gafp*
who for want of our timely affiftance muft
have inevitably expired. Thefe poor crea-
tures, perifhing with cold and weltering hi
their blood, difplayed fuch a fcene, it muft
be a heart of adamant that could ilot be
aflfe&ed at it, even to a degree of weak-
nefs.
In
THROUGH AM-E R IC A* - A2A;
. *^n the courfp x>i -the; laft action, Lieute-
i*an£H«rvey, of tfeefad, a yout&of fijcjcsni
and nephew to th» ^djutant^me^. of
the fame name, received feveral wounds,
aadwa* refeatfdty^ejred; off the fa&& by
Colonel Anftruthes; but Jus. heroic ardor
would not allow biro to. qpk the. hattle r
while he could $&nd and fee he brave lads,
fighting befide bifcn. A ball ftriking one
of his legs, his removal became ab&dutely
neeeffary, and wh|kj;they were CQnyepug
kiolaway, ;afl©tjaer wounded him mortally.
jxfrtrH^ fituation the Surgeon recowmenjfcd
bm, to take a fx&verful dofe of ©puna* to
avoid a &ven 6r eight hours. Hfe. of moll
exquH&e torture:, this he in^Bedjdtdiy coiw
irated to, and, when the Colonel entered
the tent with Major Hamagey who were
both wounded, ihey afked whether herhad
any affairs they could fettle for him ? his
reply was, " that being a minor, ewery
** 'thing was already adjusted f but he had
one requeft, which he. had juft life enough
Ee4 to
r « « • , ' »
424 INTERIOR TRAVELS -
to utter, cc Tell my uncle I died like a fol-
u dier ! M Where will you find in ancient
Rome heroifm fuperiof ! ■ -
Beyond the ground where we defeated
our enemy, all is hoftile and dangerous in
an alarming degree ; it fhould feem as if we
had conquered only to preferve our repu-
tation, for we have reaped little advantage
from our. invincible efforts \ the only fatis-
fa&ion refulting on our part is, the con-
fcioufiiefs of having acquitted ourfelves
like men, with a determination that the
honor and renown of the Britifo arms
fhould remain unfullied.- The nature of
the country is peculiarly unfavorable in re-
fpeft to mifitary operations, it being diffi-
cult to reconnoitre the enemy, and to ob-
tain any intelligence to be relied on : the
roads, the fituation of the enemy, the
grounds for procuring forage, of which
the army is in great want, and all parties
are in queft of, are often attended with the
utmoft
THROUGH AMERICA* 42$
utmoft danger, afid require great bodies to
cover them.
The expe&ation of plunder which had
induced the Indians that remained to ac-
*
company us thus far, beginning now to
fail, and feeing they have nothing but hard-
Ihips and warfare, they are daily decreafing.
They were of vaft fervice in foraging and
fcouting parties, it being fuited to their
manner^ they will not ftand a regular en-
gagement, either > through the motives I
formerly afligned, or from fear, but L am
led to imagirie the latter is the cafe, from
the obfervation I have made of them in
our late encounter with the enemy. The
Indians were running from wood to wood,
and juft as our regiment had formed in the
Skirts of one; feveral of them came up, and
by their figris were converting about the
Xevere fire on our right. Soon after the
enemy attacked us, and the very fkft fire
the Indians run off through the wood^ ;
As
426 INTERIOR TRAVELS
As to the Canadians, little waste be cUh
pended on their adherence, beiug^ eafiiy
difpirited, with an inclination to quit as
fbo£ as there was an appearance of danger ;
nor wa? the fidelity of the Provincials to be
relied on who had joined our army, as they
withdrew on p##eiving the refiftance of
the Americans would be more forjjttdablo
than had been expc&ed.
. .The defertion of the Indians, Canadi-
ins, atodJProvincials, at a time vyhen their
farvices wfe^trxrioft required, was exceedingly
mortifying; and however it may prove;
thisr, inftaoee* ' will fhew* futiare ramman-r
#tec$ what little .dependence is to be placed
oafuch auxiliaries.
•*• ' r ' - •
* * • - ■
You will readily allow that it is the
higheft teft of affe&ion in a woman, to
ihare with her hufband the toils an&
iardlbaps of the campaign, especially fuch
an one as the prefent. What a trial of
fortitude
fftROUGK AMERICA. ifif
fortitude th3 late action muft have been,
through a diftrefling interval of long fuf-
pence! The ladies followed the route
of the artillery and baggage, and when
the aflion began, the Baronefs Reidefel,
Lady Harriet Ackland, and the wives of
Major Harnage and Lieutenant Reynell,
of the 626. regiment, entered a final! un-
inhabited hut, but when the aftion became
general and bloody, the Surgeons took
poffeflfion of it, being the ifioft convenient
for the firft care of the wounded; in this
fituatioii were thefe ladies four hours to-
gether, when the comfort they iafforded
4
each other was broke in upon, by Major
Harnage being brought in to the Surgeons
deeply wounded ! What a blow muft the
next intelligence be, that informed them
Lieutenant Reynell was killed ! Madame
de Reidefel and Lady Harriet could afford
but little confolation to their companions,
through an anxioufnefs they knew not
how to (mother, left it might be ibon>
very
423 INTERIOR TRAVELS
very foon, their own fituation. The fears
of Lady Harriet were doubly increafed,
having every apprehenfion, not only for
her hufband but her brother.
Surrounded by the dead and the dying
for four long hours, the groans of the
wounded, the difcharge of the mufquetry,
and all the buftle of arms — my God!—- •
what a ftate for women of fufceptibility !
—uncertain how the battle would termi-
nate, and whether each fhould clafp again
the objeft of her deareft hopes, for whofe
fake fhe had traverfed dreary regions, en-
countered hunger and wearinefs, and wit-
nefled all the carnage of a long-difputed
field— unanimated by the tumult, and
without fharing the glory.
«
4
A long war teaches the molt unwarlike
nation the ufe of arms, and very frequent-
ly puts them in a condition to repair in
the £«d, the lof&s they fuftained in the
beginning.
THROUGH AMERICA. 429
beginning. Such is the prefent ftate of
the enemy, who not only now, but before
the late a&ion, were ftrongly recruited,
as powerful armies of militia ipring up in
every province. What a ftriking advan-
tage there was on the fide of the Ameri-
cans, in the laft engagements but thede-
fe£t of numbers in our little army, was
amply made up by the courage of the
foldiers, the valor and conduft of our
Generals.
The officers who have been killed and
wounded in the late aftion, are much
greater in proportion than that of the
foldiers, which muft be attributed to the
great execution of the rifle-men, who
dire&ed their fire againft them in parti-
cular^ in every interval of fmoke, they
were fure to take off fome, as the rifle-men
had polled themfelves in high trees. Some
of the prifoners who were taken late in
the day, laid, it was firmly believed in the
enemy's
430 INTSKIO* T*AV£X$
enemy's camp, that General J3urgoyne was
JriUed, which miftake was .occafioned by
an Aid~de-Camp of General Phillips, a
Captain Green, who, having the furniture
to his faddfe laced and embroidered, and
being wounded, fell frpm his bprfe, the
rifle-man that wounded him, from thafc
circumftance, affirmed it to be G^ner^l
Burgoyne.
You would be led to imagine, that the
Indians and Canadians would have been of
•great utility againft this mode of fighting,
,but the few who remained of the former,
*
could not be brought within found of a
rifle-fhot; and the latter, who formerly
were very expert in this fervice, either from
a great change in their military cbarafter,
or a damp that was thrown upon them .by
the lbfs of their beft officers, who were
under the neceffity .of expofing themfelves
more than was reciuifite, in order to bring
them iat all into a&ion, were of little .ufe.
Some
Some of the Provincial troops were fervice-
able, but the only men we had really to
oppofe them were the German chaffeurs,
but their number was very inferior to the
rifle-fliefn of the enemy.
Our prefent fituation is far from being
fcn ina&ive one, the armies being fo near*
that-not a night pafles but there is firing,
and continual attacks upon the advanced
-picquets, efpecially thofe of the Germans.
-It fcems to be the plan of the enemy to
liarrafs us by conftant attacks, which they
are enabled to do, without fatiguing their
•army, from the great fuperiority of their
numbers.
We are now become fo habituated to fire,
that the foldiers feem to be indifferent to it,
and eat and deep when it is very near them j
the officers reft in their cloaths, and the
field officers are up frequently in the
night* The enemy, in front of our quar-
ter
v
43^ INTERIOR TRAVELS
ter-guard, within hearing, are cutting tree*
and making works, and when I have had
this guard, I have been vifited by moft of
the field officers, to liften to them. You
would fcarcely believe it, but the enemy
had the affurance to bring down a fmall
piece of cannon, to fire as their morning
gun, fo near to our quarter-guard, that the
wadding rebounded againft the works.
We have within thefe few evenings, ex-
clufive of other alarms, been under arms
moft of the night, as there has been a great
noife, like the howling of dogs, upon the
right of our encampment ; it was imagin-
ed the enemy fet it up to deceive us, while
they were meditating fome attack. The two
firft nights this noife was heard, General
Frafer thought it to have been the dogs
belonging to the officers, and an order was
given for the dogs to be confined within
the tents ; any that were feen running
about, the Prevoft had orders to hang them.
The
.u
Vot. i;
Ft
XJ IS 'MT*
f
434 IWTBRIO* TRAVEL*
LETTER XL.
Cambridge r in New England* Nev* io> 1777V
MY DEAR FRIEND,
*T*HE difpatches lent by Lord Peter-
* {ham, relative to our misfortunes r
will have reached England long before this
comes to hand. Your furprize, then, will
ceafe at receiving a letter dated from this
place. As every little circumftance relative
to a campaign, cannot be given in an
official account to be laid before the public,
I fhall relate the tranfa&ions of the army
till the convention took place.
The
THROUGH AMERICA* 435
. m
The day after the date of my laft letter,
a detachment of 1 500 regular troops, with
two twelve-pounders, two howitzers, and
fix fix-pounders, went out between eleven
and twelve o'clock* - * The reafon, no doubt,
- 1
for the Gefieral's marching at this time,
rather than earlier in the morning, was,
that in cafe we fhould not prove vi&orious,
he had the night to favor his retreat.
' The intention of this detachment was to
make a movement to the enemy's left, not
only to difcover whether there was a poffi-
bility of forcing a paffage, if neceffary to
advance, or diflodge the enemy, in order
to favor a retreat, but likewife to cover the
forage of the army, through the fcarcity of
which we were in great diftrefs. This
being a projeft of much importance, Ge-
neral Burgoyne took with him Generals
Phillips, Reidefel and Frafer, as officers
beft qualified, and with whofe afliftance he
had every hope the plan Would fuccced.
Ffz The
436 INTERIOR TRAVELS
The guard of the camp upon the heights?
was left to the command of Brigadier Ge-
nerals Hamilton and Specht, and the re-
doubts and plain to Brigadier General
Gall.
This day having the quarter-guard of
the regiment, I of courfe remained in camp,
and thexefore can give you no information
as to the various portions that were taken ;
after the detachment had been out fome
time, we heard a very heavy firing with
the artillery, and fome little fkirmiihing
with fmall arms.
At this time Major Campbell, of the
29th regiment, the Field-officer of the day,
came to my guard, and defired me to go
with a ferjeant and fome men, to recon-
noitre acrofs two ravines, in front of the
guard, to liften if. I could hear the enemy
marching that way ; all was quiet in that '
quarter, but as the firing began to be very
heavy
THROUGH AMERICA* 437
heavy on the left, I returned to the guard.
In this little circuit I was convinced how
much the Americans were pufhed in our
late aftion, on the j 9th of September, for
I met with feyeral dead bodies belonging
to the enemy, and amongft them were
laying clofe to each other, two men and a
woman, the latter of whom had her arms
extended, and her hands grafping car-
tridges, _ . .
Soon after my return td the guard, the
.»
firing appeared to become general on both
fides, and very heavy Indeed. Much
about this time the bat-men of. the army,
who went out for forage,- came galloping
into camp, having thrown off their forage
to fave their own horfes and themfelves by
flight. The gallant behaviour of syi old
foldier, of the 20th regiment, defcrves to
be remembered ; he had been wounded at
the battle pf Minden, and as he lay. on the
ground a French dragoon rode over him,
F f 3 ' - and
'4j8 INTERIOR TRAVELS
and the horfe's feet refted on his breaftj
after having recovered from this accident*
he thought himfelf invulnerable, and held
the Americans in great contempt : when
they attacked the foraging party, the hardy
old veteran, fitting upon the forage which
he had got on the horfe^ kept load-
ing and firing his piece ^at the enemy, and
in this manner he brought his forage into
camp. Upon his arrival, his mafter re*-
primanded him for the danger he had
ex^ofed both himfelf and his horfes to,
(when he faid) " May it pleafe your honor,
" I could not throw away my forage, I'd
« fooner lofe my life, than my poor horfes
!' fliould ftarve."
s
You muft allow this defeat of the bat-
men, and a number of wounded men
coming into camp, ' was no very favorable
omen o5f fuccefs ; nor can you conceive the
forrow vifible on General Frafer's being
brought
T1LR0VGJ1 AMERICA. 439
brought in wounded, your old friends
Campbell and Johnfton, of our regiment,
on each fide of his horfe, fupporting hinu
I cannot describe to you the fcene ; it was
fuch that the imagination muft help to
paint.— —The officers, all anxious and
eagerly enquiring as, to his wound— the
down-caft look and melancholy that wat
vifible to every one, as to his fituation, and
all the anfwer he could make to the many
enquiries, was a {hake df his head, ex-
preflive that it wjas all <3ver with him.— ^
5o much was he beloved, that not only
officers and foldiers, but all the women
flocked round, felicitous for his fate.
When he had reached his tent, and was
recovered a little from the faintnefs occa-
fioned by lofs of blood, he told thofe
around him, that he faw the man who
lhot him, he was a rifle-man, and up in
a tree j the ball entered a little below hia
F f 4 breaft,
44*' INTERIOR TRAVELS
breaft, and penetrated juft below the
back bone, After the Surgeon had draft-
ed his wound, he faid to him very com-
pofedly, " Tell me, Sone, to the, bed
" of your (kill and judgment, if you
u think my wound is mortal." When he
replied, "lam forry, Sir, to inform you,
* that it is, and that you cannot poffibly
<* live four and twenty hours/' He then
called for pen and ink, and after making
his will, and diftribating a few little tokens
of regard to the officers of his fuite, de-
fired that he might be remove4 td the ge«»
neral hofpital.
III camp, and not in peffonal danger, as
the mind is left to refle&ibn, it is impof*
fible to defcribe how much it is affe&ed in
beholding the wounded continually coming
in, amid an ineeflant roar of cannon and
mufquetry, where perhaps many brave fel-
lows are dying for their country-^perhaps
too
THROUGH A*MER&CA. 44 1
too in an unfiiccefsful battle! I can never
confent to be left in camp again;
After many hours impatient anxiety, to-
wards the elofe of the evening, the grand
ftroke came. I had little hope to become
a partaker in the aft ion j- but about that
time the trpops came pouring into camp
as faft as they coujjj, and fhortly after Ge-
nerals Bgjrgpyns, Phillips and Reidefel*
It is imppffibk to defcribe the anxioufnefs
depicted in the countenance of General
Burgoyne, whp immediately rode up to the
quarter-guards, and when he came to that
of our regiment, I was acrofs a ravine,
pqftnjg a fegeant's guard. Upon enquir-
ing eagerly for the officer, I came to him,
^ Sir, faid the General, you mull defend
" this poft to the very 'UH man." You
may eafily conceive, upon receiving thofe
prders, I judged every thing to be in a dan*
gerous fituation. There was not a mp-
jnent for thought, for the Americans
• .V r - , ftormed
44* INTERIOR TRAVELS
ftormed with great fury the poft. of the
light-infantry, under the command of
»
Lord Balcarres, rufhing clofe to the lines,
under a fevere fire of grape-ftiot and finall
arms. This poft was defended with great
Spirit, ami the enemy, : led on by General
Arnold, as gallantly affaulted thfe works ;
but on the General's being wounded, the
wiemy were repulfed, which was not till
after da&. In this attack, . I was but an
• • •
obferver, as our quarter-guard was fome
Jdiftanefe from the lines, but not fuflfciently
• • » *
lb as to be out of Sanger, as the %aH& were
Continually dropping- down amorigft us.
Jh order that you 'thay form fome idea with
'what obftinacy fhe enemy aflkuliaed the
lines, from the cdmmehceifcent; at which
time it was darK, <fill they wer6 ; *repulfed,
there was a continual flieef of fire along
the lines, and in this attack we werer fully
^convinced of what eHential iervfce our ar-
lillery was. *" ' l
>. i
During
ttlfe
our-
THROUGH AMERICH. 443
During the time the enemy were fo
vigorously attacking our lines, ,a\ party
affaulted thofe* of the Germans, cam*-
manded by Colonel Breyman, but either
for want of courage, or presence of mind,
they, upon the firfli attack of the enemy,
were ffcruck with fuch a terror, that in-
ftead of gallantly fuftaining their lines, they
Idoked oil all as loft, and after filing one
volley, haftily abandoned theei; thatljravfc
offieer, Colonel Breyman, in endeavouring
*o: rally -hU foldie*a; f Was unfortunately
ltilk>d; 8f theuenenty's obtaining cpofiefeoH
of th6 German lines, they gained an
opening upon our riglit and rear, - .
' | ,r t *-\ ft- ■» ' ••
J
Iii this- ehgagenwnt we loft: many* brave'
officer^ ko add to the fate of General
Friftty General Burgoyne's, Aid-de-Camp,
Sk FtfattGis - Gierke, was killed, Cokmel
^ " Acfelsnd wounded . and a prifoner, &fejor
Williams, Captain Blomfield, and Lieu-
tenant Howarth, of the artillery, were
likewife
pc
si
444 INTERIOR TRAVELS
likewise prifoners, the latter wounded;
Major Blomfield's wound was very re-
markable, a fhot paffing through both
cheeks, without hurting the infide of his
mouth* Your friend Howarth's wound I
hear, is in his knee ; it is very fingular, but
he was prepoffeffed with an idea of being
wounded, for when the orders came for the
detachment's going out, he was playing
picquet with me, and after reading the
orders, and that his brigade of guns were
to g<vhe faidto me, " God bids you
A— «— , farewell, for I.know not bow it
is, but I have flxangs prefentiment that I
" fhall either be killed .oc wounded." I
■4.
was rather furprized at fuch an expreflion,
V
as. he is of a gay and chewfuT dtfpo-
ftion, and cannot but %, that during the
little time I could beftow in re/le&ipa that
day, I continually dwelt upon; his remark,
but he -is now happily in a fail?, waj . ftf
recovery.
After
CC
THROUGH AMERICA. 445
After Major Ackland was wounded,
when he obferved the army were re-
treating, he requefted Captain Simpfon, of
the 31ft regiment, who was an intimate
friend, to help him into camp, upon
which, being a very ftout man, he conveyed
the Major on his back a confiderable way,
when the enemy purfuing fo rapidly, he
was obliged to leave him behind to fave
himfelf, As the Major lay on the ground,
he cried out to the men who were running
by him, that he would give fifty guineas
to any foldier who would convey him into
camp. A ftout grenadier inftantly took
him on his back, and was haftening into
camp, when they were overtaken by the
enemy and macje prifoners . Here you muft
naturally conceive what were the feelings
of Lady Harriet, who, after hearing the
whole of the aftion, at laft received the
{hock of her individual misfortune, mixed
with the general calamity of the defeat
Whatever
446 INTERIOR TRAVELS
Whatever favorable opinion the General
had entertained of our late encampment,
after this attack he thought our flank liable
to be turned, and it would be impoffible to
aceomplifh an honorable retreat, fearing
Hie only fecurity of the army would con-
lift in an ignominious flight, as our works
would by no means refift cannon-fhot.
Before we quitted them, we heard the
enemy bringing up their artillery, no
doubt with a view to attack us at day-
break; therefore, laboring under thefe
apparent difadvantages, we had orders to
quit our prefent fituation during the night,
and take poft upon the heights x above the
hofpital ; by this movement the whole of
the army were now aflembled upon the
heights and plain, of which you have a
view in the drawing I fent you.
Our late movement, which was effect-
ed without any lofs, occafioned the enemy
to make a new difpofition, and on
the
THROUGH AMERICA.* 447
the 8th of Oftober, the baggage and
incumbrances of th§ army being removed,
we offered battle, anxious for a confUft
in a plain, where we could difcern our
enemy, as hitherto all our aft ions had been
in the woods, where it is impoffible exaftly
to prefcribe to an army; or feparate body,
how to govern itfelf ; every different mo-
tion of the enemy, and the various ac-
counts a General receives of them, ought
to make him alter his meafures, and there
is no laying down to a commanding offi-
cer of any corps, other than general rules,
the reft depending on his own conduft,
and the behaviour of his troops.
At one time we fully imagined it was
the intention o£ the enemy to have at-
tacked us, as a very large body, confifting
of feveral brigades, drew up in line of
battle, with artillery ; - and began to can-
nonade us. In return, an howitzer was
fired, and, as was intended, the fhell fell
L Ihort,
448 INTERIOR TRAVELS
fhort, upon which the enemy fetting up a
great fhout, were veiy much encouraged,
and kept on cannonading. The next time
the howitzer was To elevated, that the (hell
fell into the very center of a large column,
and immediately burft, which fo difmayed
them, that they fled off into the woods,
and (hewed no other intentions of an
attack ; indeed their cautious conduft dur-
ing the whole day ftrongly marked a diC-
inclination to a general aftion.
Early on this morning General Frafer
breathed his iaft, and at his particular re^
queft, was buried, without any parade, in
the great redoubt, by the foldiers of his
own corps. About fun-fet, the corpfe
was carried up the hill; the proceflion
was in view of both armies ; as it pafled
by Generals Burgoyne, Phillips and Rei-
defel, they were ftruck at the plain fimpli-
city of the parade, being only attended by
the officers of his fuite; but left the army,
not
THROUGH AMERICA, 4^.9.
not b£ing acquainted with the privacy that
■
was defired, and conftrile it into negleft,
and urged by a natural wifh to pay the laft
honors to him, in the eyes of the whole
army, they joined the proceffion.
«
The enemy, with an inhumanity pecu-
liar to Americans, cannonaded the pro-
ceffion as it paffed, and during the fervice
over the ^rave. The account given me by
your friend Lieut. Freeman was, that there
appeared an expreffive mixture of fenfibility
and indignation upon every countenance—
the fcene muft have been affe&ing.
In the evening intelligence was /brought
that the enemy were marching to turn our
right ; we could prevent this by no other
means than retreating towards Saratoga.
A retreat is a matter of the higheft con-
sequence, and requires the greateft conduft
in a General, as well as refolution in both
officers and'foldiers, for the leaft mifina-
Vol. I. G g nagement
4£6 INTERIOR TRAVELS
fragement puts all into confufion. A good
retreat is looked on as the cbefd'auvre of
& Comtifpnder. Every one of die advanced
corps felt feverely the lofs of General
Frafer, as he ufed frequently to &y, that,
if the army had the misfortune to retreat,
be would enfure, with the advanced corps,
*> bring it off infafety; thiswas apiece
of Generalihip he was not a littk vain
^ , for during the war in Germany, he
made good his retreat with five hundred
chafleurs, in fight of the French army.
But as covering the retreat of the army
was of the utmoft cemfequence, General
Phillips took the command of the rear-
guard, which conMed of the advanced
corps.
At nine o'clock at night the army began
-to move, General Reidefel commanding
the van-guard. Our retreat was made
Whin mufquet-Aot of the enemy, and
■though greatly encumbered with baggage,
without
THROUGH AMERICA.
4S*
without a fingle lofs. It was near eleven
o'clock before the rear-guard marched, and
for near an hour, we every moment ex-
pected to be attacked, for the enemy had
formed on the lame fpot as in the morning;
we could difcern this by the lanterns that
the officers had in. their hands, - and their
riding about in tkp front of their line,
but though the Americans put their army
in motion that night, they did not purfue
us, in our retreat, till late the next day.
Deferring the fequel of our misfortunes
till another opportunity, $nd willing to
embrace a very favorable one that npw
prefents itfelf of fending this, I remain,
Yours, &c,
Gg 3
LET-
452 INTERIOR TRAVELS
LETTER XJLI.
tlambridgtg in Neva England Nov. 15, 1777.
MY DEAR FRIEND,
AFTER a march, in which wc were
liable to be attacked in front, flank
and rear, the army, on the 9th, at day-
break, reached an advantageous ground,
and took a pofition very deferable to
have received the enemy 5 we halted to re-
frefh the troops, and to give time for
the batteaux to come abreaft of the army.
A few days provifion was delivered out,
and it was apprehended it might be the laft,
for though the movement of the army kept
pace with the batteaux ', ftill there were
many
THROUGH AMERICA, 453
many parts of the river where they might
have been attacked to great advantage, and
where the army could afford them little .
prote&ion.
After the troops had been refrefhed, and
the batteaux came up, the army proceeded
forward, in very fevere weather, and thro*
exceeding bad roads, and late at night ar-
rived at Saratoga, in fuch a ftate of fatigue,
that the men had hot ftrength or inclina-
tion to cut wood and make fires, but rather
fought fleep in their wet eloaths and on
the wet ground, under a heavy rain that
ftill continued, and which began to fall
when we firft retreated.
The inceffant rain during our retreat
was rather a favorable circumftarice, for
though it impeded the army in their m^rch,
and increafed its difficulties, it fejrved at the
fame time to retard, and in a grea$ mea~
fure prevented, the purfuit of the enemy $
Gg 3 it
454 INTERIOR TRAVELS
it however occafioned one very unhappy
«
neceflity, that of abandoning our hofpitals
with the lick and wounded: but great
praife is due to the humanity of General
Gates, for upon the very firft intelligence
of it, he imifigdiately lent forward a few
light horfe, to prated them from itifult
and plunder.
The heivy ram afforded another cohlb-
lation to the men during the march, which
wasi in cafe the ehferiAy had attacked to;
the &te of the day tfrbuld have fefted folely
upon the bayonet : this idea prevailed fo
w
ftrongly in the minds of the meir, that
notwithftanding they were acquainted with
the fuperiority of the enemy, an attack
Jeemcd to be the wifh 63F every (&Hier.
• When the aermy were about \6 move
after we halted, the cafes and anxieties
With which the General, A6 dodbfc, ihuft
liave Been farrounideid, tyetoe greatly fik-
: - * created
THROUGH' AMERICA. 45$.
created by a circumftance of private diftrefs,'
for at this time a mefiage was delivered .
to him from that amiable woman. Lady *
Harriet Ackland, expreffing an earneft
define, if it did not militate againft the
General's wiflies, of palling to the camp
of the enemy, and requefting General
Gates's permiffion to attend herhufband,
at the fame timefubmittingit entirely to
the General's opinion.
The General, although he had been fully"
convinced of the patience and fortitude
with which fhe had already encountered
the many trying fituations that had be-
fallen her, could not but exprefs his afto-
nifhment at this propofal, as it appeared
an effort beyond human nature, that a wo-
man of fuch a tender and delicate frame as
her's, fhould be capable of fuch an under-
taking as that of delivering .hcrfdf to the
enemy — probaby in the night, and uncer*
tain of what hands fhe might fall into-~
G g 4 efpecially
45^ INTERIOR TRAVELS
especially after fo long an agitation of the
fpirits, not only exhaufted by want of reft,
but abfolutely want of food, and drenched
in rains for near twelve hours — and this at
a time too, when far advanced in a ftate
where every tender care and precaution be-
comes abfolutely requifite !-r— In the har-
raffed and fatigued fituation fhe was in, it
Was no little chagrin to the General, that
he could afford her no afliftance to cheer
up her fpirits fpr fuch an undertaking s he
had not even a cup of wine to offer her —
but from a foldier^s wife fhe obtained a
little rum and dirty water ! With this poor
refrefhment fhe fet out in an open boat,
which was furnifhed by the General, with
a few lines of recommendation to General
Gates, for his prote&ion. The Chaplain
that officiated at General Frafer's funeral
undertook to accompany her, and with her
wJuting-maid, and the Major's valet de
chambre (who then had i. ball in his fhoul-
der, which he received in the late a&ibn,
in
THROUGH AMERICA. 457
in feafching for the Major after he was
wounded) fhe rowed down the river to
meet the enemy.— But to return to the
army.
■
It was not till after day-light, on the
morning of the i oth, that the artillery and
the laft of the troops paffed the Fifh-Kill,
and took pofition upon the heights and in
the redoubts we had formerly conftru&ed.
On our arrival at Saratoga, a corps of the
enemy, between five and fix hundred, were
difcovered throwing up intrenchments on
the heights, but upon our approach re-
tired over the ford of the Hudfon's river,
and joined a body pofted to oppofe our
paflage there.
A detachment of artificers, under a
ftrong efcort, were fent to repair bridges,
and open a road on the weft fide of the
river to Fort Edward ; but the enemy being
ftrorigly pofted on the heights of the Fifli-
Kill,
45& INTERIOR TRAVELS
Kill, and making a difpofrtion to give us
battle, that tfcort was recalled. The Pro-
vincials who were left to cover the artifi-
cers, upon a very flight attack ran away,
leaving them to efcape as they could, with-
out a poffibility of their performing any
work.
"While thefe different movements were
carrying on, the batteaux with provisions
were frequently fired upon from the oppo~
lite fide of the river, fome of them were
loft, and feveral men killed and wounded
in thofe that remained.
On the nth the enemy continued the
attacks upon the batteaux \ feveral were
taken and retaken, . but their fituation
being nearer to the main force of the
enemy than to ours, it was judged necef-
fery to land the provifions, and fend them
up the hill, as it wis impoflible to fecure
them by any other means : this was eflfe&ed
under
THROUGH AMERICA. 459
under a heavy fire* and with the greateft
difficulty.
• The intentions of the enemy became
now very apparent, and no doubt General
Gates thought he fhould be able to gain
more advantage from the iituation and
circumftances of our army, by cutting
off our provifions, and otherwife harrafling
and diftrefling us, by the galling fire of
the riflemen, who werfe every wheffe placed
£bdut in the woods, than by giving us
battle, and running the chaitce of a vic-
tory.
The poflible means of farther retreat were
confidered in a council of war, cqmpofed
of the General officers ; and the only one
that feemed expedient, or in the leaft prac-
ticable, was attended with fttch danger, as
afforded little hopes of fuccefs, but never-
thelefs the refolve was it fhould be attempted.
This was by anight march to Fort Ed-
ward,
460 INTERIOR TRAVELS
ward, the troops carrying their pfovifions
cm their backs, leaving artillery, baggage,
and other incumbrances behind, and to
force a paffage at the ford, either above of
below that fort.
While the army were preparing for this.
*
bald and refolute undertaking, fome fcouts
returned with intelligence, that the enemy
were ftrongly intrenched oppofite thofe
fords, and poflefTed a camp in force on the
high grounds, between Fort Edward and
Fort George, with cannon ; exclufive of
which, they had parties down the w;hole
ihore to watch our motions, and fome
pofts fo near us, on our fide of the water,
that it was impoflible the army could make
the leaf! motion without being difcavered.
Notwithftanding the number of the
Americans, which was hourly increafing,
General Gates afted with as much precau-
tion as if the fuperiority was on our fide,
as
Through- America* 461
as the ground where he tencajnped was,
from its nature aiid : the ' works he liad
thrown up, inattackableJ v
Our march to Fort Edward being thus
prevented, the army was pofted as well as
the ground would admit of, fdrtifying our
camp, and preparing for any attempt that
the eneitiy, from our reduced ftate, might
be induced to make. -
The ftate and fituation of our army was
truly calamitous 1— Worn down by a feries
of inceflant toils and ftubborn actions j
abandoned in our utmoft diftrefs by the
Indians ; weakened by the defertion; and
difappoihted as to the efficacy of the Cana-
dians and Provincials, by their timidity ;
. the regular troops reduced* by the late
heavy loffes of many of our beft men and
diftinguifhed officers, to only 3500 effective
men, of ' which number there were not
quite 2000 Britifh: — in this ftate of weak-
nefs
462 INTERIOR TRAVEL'S
nefs, no poffibility of retreat, our provi-
lions nearly exhaufted, and invefted by an
army of four times oilr number, that
alraoft encircled us, who would not attack
us from a knowledge of our fituatian, and
whole works could not be aflaulted in any
part. In this perilous fituation the men
lay continually upon their arms, the enemy
inceflantly cannonading us, and their rifle
and cannon (hot reaching every part of our
camp*
True courage fubmks with great diffi-
culty to defpair, and in the midft of all
thofe dangers and arduous trials, the
valor and conftancy of the Britifli troops
were afbonifhing : they ftill retftrpfrf their
fpirits, in hopes that either, the long*
expe&ed relief would arrive from .New-.
York, which the army implicitly believed,
from an order that had been given out at
our camp at Still-Water, ftating that pow-
erfui armies were to a£t in co-operation
with
fTHROUGH AMERICA. 463
with bars, or that the enemy would attack
us, which was moft fervently wifhsd for,
as it would have given us an opportunity
of xiying gallantly , or extricating ourfehres
withhonor*
After waiting the whole of the 1 3 th day
of October, in anxious expe&atioa of What
it would produce, and to which time it
had been refolved to endure all extremities
in maintaining our ground againft the
-enemy~*io profped of afliftaftce appearing,
^nd no rational ground of hope remaining,
»
it wa$ thought proper, in the evening, to
take an exaft account of the provisions
left, which amounted to no more than three
-days ftiort allowance*
In this ftate of diftrefs, a council of war
was called, to which all the Generals, Field-
officers, and commanding-officers of corps
were fummoned, when it was unanimoufly
agreed, that in the prefent circumftances
we
464 INTERIOR TRAVELS
we could do no other than treat with the
enemy.
• * •
Overtures were accordingly propri&d to
General Gates, who harfhly reje&ed them,
reminding us of our enervated ftate, from
a toilfome campaign, diminifhed numbers,
icanty fubfifteace, and the inipoffibility .of
frefti fupply. ; Thefe reafons were urgedon
the fpur of the moment, minute; confiderar
tion denied, and a decifive anfw^r required.
We felt their force, but compliance was
never thought of, it would have too feyexely
wounded the digiiity.of our military cha-
rafter.
• •
The refufal of our. overtwres was. .morti-
fying in the extreme, yet inftead of depref-
fingf it raifed our magnanimity^; the inter-
.val of fufpence, indeed, difturbtid our re-
pofe ; anxiety was awake to cohfequences —
ftill we adhered to our purpofe with manly
: firmnefs. A ftate of fufpence, to a reflect-
ing
THROUGH AMERICA* 465
ing mind, is worfe tlian death ; that was
our ftate till the convention was. finally
adjufted.
The obltacles to^ the accomplifhment of
the convention at ; ftfft appeared infur-
Countable, for General Gates conceived
that our complicated embarraffmehts fiif-
ficiently juftified him, according to the
rUles bf war/ miniiftihg on an uncondi-
tional furrender of > the army : they were
diiciaimfully rejefted, and he was peremp-
torily informed, that nottvithftaiiding our
reduced numbers, if he ftiU perfifted, our
final appeal flrould be to the fWoacd, as the
Bjritifh troops would ruih upon.the enemy,
determined to give no quarter*
General Gates, fro6i having been 6nce in
our fervice, was fully convinced of what
exertions Britifti troops were capable, in
any dangerous emergency ; he was therfc-
fore quickly fenfible bf the impolicy of
Vol. I. H h coercion,
466 INTERIOR TRAVELS
coercion, and with very great prudence
declined hazarding a frefh conflift with
men who preferred death to a difgracefu!
fubmiffion. Awed by our firmnefs, he
retraced his demands, arid honorable
terms were granted* the particulars, as
they are undoubtedly in the Gazette, I fhall
of courfe pafe oven
To a reverfe of fortune we yielded with
becoming dignity, but our honor was fafe,
and equanimity of temper marked our cha*
rafter, even in adverfity.
w
I
General Burgoyne has done every thing
in this convention for the good of the
troops, confiftent with the fervice of Ms
King and country : all that wifdom, valor,
and a ftriS fenfe of honor could fuggeft.
Confident, no doubt, of having exerted
himfelf with indefatigable fpirit in their
fervice, he will defpife popular clamor, truly
fenfible thai no perfefit and unbiafled judge
of
THROUGH AMERICA. 467
of a&ual fervice can condemn him. Addi-
fon has fomewhere obferved,
*' 'Tis not in mortals to command fuccefs,!"
And as the populate, in this verfatile
age ftartle at untoward events, fo our Ge-
neral is liable to be expofed to public cen-
fure. Ample juftice muft raife him in the
mind of every liberal man who will judge
with caution, acquit him with honor, and
take him to his heart as the foldier's
friend as a man of cool judgment, but
ardent for glory— —as courageous but un- '
fortunate !
JSND OP THE FIRST VOLUME,
J
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